This subject has come up a few times locally, so I wanted to post it here to get everyones opinions. I'd like input from those running stock cubes, and those running strokers.
It seems as though there's many people out there that don't believe 350-355 cubic inches are enough. Throughout much research here, and elsewhere I've noticed that large cubic inch strokers don't really perform any better than stock displacement rebuilds in a drag car. Just as a reference, Matt Baer (NOSTANG) is running a 355 and has went 11.4 on the motor. Brian (PROJECTZ) is running 11.91 with an untouched bottom end, and heads. It's a basically stock engine with the exception of a CC305 and a set of 1.6 rockers. Incase anyone thinks it's a radical suspension/lightweight car...Stock suspension right down to the shocks, and it's a full weight car. It's also a N/A car. You might want to check out Mac Holmes. His 357 (.060" over 350) is running 11.8 on the motor. Brian Neary went 10.5 ,on nitrous, with a factory 350 bottom end.
I see alot of guys with 383's and even 396's that haven't found the 11's yet.

I'm looking into building my bottom end next year, and I just want everyone opinions. If you have a good running stroker then please let me know.
I don't mind spending money where it's needed, but I don't like spending money on stuff that doesn't work. The LT1 has a pretty stout bottom end as delivered. Has anyone ever seen a broken crank or rod? Yes, the cranks are cast, but so are alot of the 383 assemblies that people buy. The rods in some 383 rotating assemblies are also remanufactuered Chevy rods.

Can anyone convince me that a stroker is the way to go?

Frank

 

From the numbers a 383 will give lots more torque. Horsepower is increased just a bit. I would like to see some input from the 383 crowd.

You didn't mention the difference is gas mileage or smog issues. Those may also be a factor for somebody looking into the 383 buildup.

 

When it comes time for me, I plan to stay with the stock crank simply for budgetary reasons. However, simple math and logic says that a 383 or 396 is going to make more power than a 350/355... *shrug*....

I guess it is possible that the higher-revving nature of a 350 over a 383/396 might make it better on the top end? I dunno....

I think you get more power out of good heads, well-chosen cams, etc, and your drag times are dependent on good suspension, tires, etc. Basically a 383/396 isn't really a good horsepower per dollar venture.... but if ya have the $$....

-Michael

 

The problem with a stroker is the vast torque improvement usually gives you a vast traction problem. Ask me how I know...

Assuming two identical vehicles that can both hook equally, the stroker wins every time...no ifs, ands, or buts.

 

Yeah, I have to agree with the above comments. The reason a lot of those 383/396 guys are not clicking off insane times is the good ol !traction mod. These engines make a significant amount more torque than a conventional LT1 350 or even 355 for that matter.
If you set up two identical cars (lets say autos, full drag suspension, drag tires and the same drivers) the 383/396 car beats the 350/355 car EVERY time.

Remember, there is NO replacement for displacement.

 

Anyone consider the fact that an equally prepared 327 and 350 (old days) would run almost identical? Remember the '69 302 Z?
Low end grunt is good for launching the car. LT1's have alot of low end torque from the factory. Hell, my stock motored car went a 1.73 60 FT. with a stock suspension.
I still believe that upper RPM horsepower is better for a drag car that's traction limited. Dyno charts show more HP/and torque from strokers, but 1/4 mile times don't, usually. I'm not planning on taking my dyno #s to the street or drag strip with me...It'll be up to the way the car RUNS that will win or lose a race. When the race is over and the loser pays, it's not gonna matter what the dyno #'s are

Frank

 

We're talking STREET cars here. Theoretically, we'll be launching both cars on 10.5" ET Streets.
So to make a stroker run AS GOOD as a 350/355, I've got to plan on spending another $2000 on suspension mods? So by the time I spend an extra $2000 on the engine , and an extra $2000 on the suspension, how much faster does that really get me?

Frank

 

It will cost more than $2000 for an engine. If your planning on any block work plan on $800-$1300 depending on where you go. Sounds like you're planning on using your existing top end components (Cam, rockers, heads) so you can save some there. Are you are going to clearance the block yourself or if they are going to clearance the block for the crank, then add $300.

With a 383 you'll probably want a bigger cam and then port or clean up the heads if that hasn't been done already. Crank, pistons, and rods will run $1500 +. A new timing chain to handle the increased stress... $$$. You can go double roller if you have an electric water pump. Otherwise a Cloyes for the LT1 is about $450.

 

Good point. I was referring to the extra $2000 for just the rotating assembly. The block prep will add more $$$

Frank

 

No input from the stroker guys? This is your chance to state your case. So far that's all we've got are some could've, should've, would've, but no quarter mile times.

Frank

 

heres a 383 guys input.

First off, in the debate i'd rather not fight a 2 front war. Are we talking strength or performance?

I'll shut the strength debate down by saying there are 7 and 8 second 383s out there. It can be as strong as you want it to be.

Performance-
why not? why would it hurt. this is by no stretch of the imagination a radical stroke. Reving capabilites are not really effectecd in a hydrolic roller. Valve float is the limiting factor, not the stroke. 383's are revving plenty high.

Price?
Not much differance. if your getting new rods and pistons and crank anyway, whats another $100 to notch the block? a mere drop in the bucket.

I dont see how added cubes can hurt. They eat up some of the cam and tame it abit and seem to produce longer, broader torque bands.

just my two copper coins.


edit:

why havn't a lot of 383 guys found 11's? simple, added cubes is over rated. its great. its almost free. but its not going to make up for your terrible cam selections and **** poor tuning along with craptastic heads that flow worse than stock.

Take that yorkie guy for example. Lt4 hot cam with a $130 CAT crank, $180 connecting rods and craptastic pistons. Stock manifolds, stock rockers, the whole .9 yards. How much potential does that 383 have? A stroker needs more cam because it needs more air. Mismatch things and it wont work. its a lot easier to choke up a 383/396 than a 350/355.

So whats the gain in the end? a few more horses and a few more ft lbs. is that to say a 355 cant best a 383? **** no! the 383 has an edge but thats like saying a fox body 5.0 cant beat a camaro. but hey, if your replacing it- its damn near free.

Now why people feel obligated to get completely forged bottom ends with a setup looking for 375rwhp NA at 6500rpms is BEYOND me .The stock bottom end can handle that fine

 

My current thoughts are stock crank, stock rods (bushed for floating pins) and JE pistons. This combo will cost substantialy less than a 383 rotating assembly, and block machining.

BTW, Trey, you didn't post any quarter mile times. What does the 383 run?

Frank

 

Look at the MPH differences between the stoker and a smaller cubed. The stoked guys clock off around 115-120 with slower times. The smaller guys run better times with less MPH. For a lot of street racing, MPH can change everything. For track, the times show it all.

Trey, I agree with your last statement. I turned my stock bottom end car 7k everyday and it held up fine. I screwed up with the heads though, because it still made power until 6800 rpm.

 

Frank-
we are comparing apples to oranges. Bang for the buck is NOT thre with a bottom end build up.

383 is faster than a 350 all things equal. By much? nah. Enough to justify it on a complete rebuild? yes.

However frank- I think it wouldn't be worth it in your situation if you are on a limited budget. just use the stock crank. if you can afford $300 for a crank and notching, i feel its a worthy investment. Wont be any stronger but it will be faster.

You can really notch the block yourself . get a scat 9000 series crank and your done. i think pistons would cost the same for a 383 with 5.7 rod too.

i would tend to disagree with the mph statement. if anything, we will have lower mph and lower et.


And finally- racenet sent me the wrong cam so apart she goes- i have no idea what i was running

 

in other words
if your debating between top end or bottom end build up-
dont be a moron.

if your rebuilding the bottom end and geting new components, why not