nope. i called them about the problem. they seemed aware of it and informed me that the comp r's might not be what i'm looking for in a lifter. i sent the comp r's back and went with morel's.

 

You actually do need to pull the intake manifold to thoroughly check the lifters out. When Bret and I looked at the ones in my 355 they appeared to be good but we went ahead and pulled the psuhrods to actually pull them out to check them over. I am glad we did too, because all clips were still intact but they were infact damaged. There was at least three clips that are buckled in the middle and starting to lift up at the buckle, meaning it is ready to break, as well as another couple that are cracked all the way through. I was one of the guys that thought I would be be fine with Comp R's, well I am now going with the Morels.

 

Any diagnosis on how the clips buckled?

 

I can't honestly say. It appears those clips are thinner than sheetmetal, and really have no mass...I am guessing that they are just not up to the task. Bret and I have come to the conclusion that perhaps this was the beginning stages of what everybody else has been experiencing, because in order to pop out they would have to buckle or crack first in order to make there way out. I can tell you that it had nothing to do with my valve lash setting, I am very picky to this and checked and reset them a few times in the short period of time I was using them. I'll see what I can do as far as snapping some pics of the buckling, and cracking of the clips and show you guys what else you should be looking for when inspecting them.

 

Keeping the lifter together? I'm not sure I understand that one because there is to be absolutely no load or contact made with the clip when the valves are adjusted properly. Are you absolutely sure you were not experiencing valve float?

 

I just used that term, as a way to describe this. I experienced valve float when I had the OEM replacement lifters in, but never got enough time with these Comp R's in place to rev high enough. My car only experienced float around 6K RPMs, and the car wasn't even run that hard once they were in. Like I said, i cannot say WHY this has happened, but it is clearly an engineering flaw. From everything I read, i felt that i would be fine with the Comp R's as long as lash was set correctly, but that doesn't seem to be the true issue.

 

No offense, but I still don't see how it can be the fault of the lifters especially when there are bazillions of variables to take into account.

 

No offense taken, and No offense to you as well when I say that its kinda naive to think its all the operator when there have been so many failures, and just as many that were setup by professionals. Maybe you have the touch, and yours won't break. Perhaps you just got lucky, But just so you know yours could be damaged as well if you didn't pull them out to inspect...because you cannot tell if they are buckled while installed....Only time will tell I suppose.

 

I'd like to see pictures of what you're talking about. I did not pull my lifters out of the bores, but they were closely looked at. I was able to see the clips well and did not notice anything. I just can't understand why a clip could break when the only job it has is to keep the lifter plunger in place before the valves have been adjusted. The clip is not supposed to be any sort of bump stop while the valvetrain is in motion. IMHO the clips in the "new" lifters are perahps thinner/weaker and cannot handle the abuse of a weak valvetrain as opposed to the "Comp R's" of old.
Most (if not all) the pictures I've seen from this thread so far looks as though the pushrod walked and hammered the clip.

 

I understand your thoughts, but there must be some sort off issue if a Comp R can't stand virtually any abuse. I do believe human error could have played a part in some failures, as with any product....but after so many issues I end to believe there are some sort of engineering/manufacturing defects with them.

I'll see if i can show some pics for everyone.

 

Just a thought but has anyone tried Crane lifters? I've been from stock to Comp R to Crane and like the Crane lifters the best so far. If I would of know before I purchased them that I could of used any lifter with a .842 diameter I would of went with these

Crane 144530 http://static.summitracing.com/globa...44530-16_w.jpg

What I really like about these is that the roller part is completly open on both side even the Comp-R's lack this important feature that would benfit anyone with extreme ramps on the cam. LSx lifters are a direct replacment for LTx lifters so that opens some more doors.

Jason

 

I can offer a good reason most of the Clips you see are hammered like that. When the clip 'pops' out it is still retained by the push rod. as it bounces around the push rod it easily gets chewed up between the push rod and lifter cup.

This is ONLY an explanation of why they look that way. I am pretty sure as there was a motor here with broken lifter clips and it had the one of the clips caught between the pushrod and the cup. the push rod was where it should have been..in the cup. just not with the retainer between them

I personaly have not had any fail. Then again I am now worried about $30,000 in engines we have installed in the last month! One of them in MY car!

 

Well i have a brand new set still in the box you think comp would swap me out for a set of 850-16 or anyone want to buy them

 

also i just pulled mine out of the box being they are brand new and i noticed the theres a groove cut in the lifter to use the older style retaining clips like out of a stock lifter was thinking of taking out these tin metal retaining clips and revert to the old style keeper has anyone done this?

 

Is it possible that there is a way to fix the lifters? From reading the previous posts, I am wondering if it is a badly engineered oil leakdown problem. I mean, the lifter takes in pressurized oil and transfers it up through the pushrod to lubricate the valvetrain. It is only supposed to hold on to as much oil as necessary to MAINTAIN PROPER PRELOAD! Can we assume that MAYBE the oil doesn't have an easy path to get up into the pushrod ie:a restriction somewhere within the lifter causing it to exceed its own internal pressure capabilities thereby causing it to "swell" or "baloon" thus popping the clip? In other words, the lifter takes in more oil than it can bleed out. Has anyone tried clearancing the oil hole in the top of the lifter? Is anyone here who's lifter failed, running a high-volume or high pressure oil pump?