What guideplates are you using. I have run Iski adjustable guide plates on my car for 6 years and they look the same as the day I bought them.

 

Just recently found one of mine was broken and the scary thing is I definitely did not find the parts in the oil pan. No idea where the retainer is. Oh well, motor's junk anyway. Bent up a rod like a pretzel so bad I was not even mad, I was actually impressed!

I have seen a lot of posts out there referring to people revving up to 7k and the Morels working well for that. Anybody going 8k and/or beyond? If so... what are you guys running? Solid roller? Do the Morels go up past that? Seroiusly looking at Jesel Shaft mount Rockers and curious as to what I should use for lifters......

Thx

 

If you are going to rev over 7k I would def go with a solid roller setup.

 

i thanks pat

 

ABSOLUTEY!! For those of you who have had lifter failure problems, look at three things:

LIFTER PRELOAD SETTINGS, design parameters and RPM!

Every valvetrain component is engineered to function within certain parameters; if your preload is not correct, your valvetrain geometry isn't right or you rev the engine too high, you're just asking for it.

The part may well function for a period of time, but failure is inevitable. Sooner or Later it'll happen. That amount of damage that results depends, primarily, on the RPM at the time of the failure.

Don't be too quick to blame the part that failed; you could be asking it to operate outside it's designed parameters. It can't reliably do what you're asking it to do.

5800/6000 is the limit to expect hydraulic stuff to perform reliably over time. Sure, you can do it once, twice of even more; but it's a formula for disaster down the road.

You want to dance around at high RPMs? Go mechanical and drop the hydraulic stuff.

Just my thoughts.

Jake

 

Can someone please post the part numbers of the lifters to avoid? Or did I miss them (being too lazy to read all the pages)
I just bought a new set for the engine I'm putting together and don't want to install the "bad" ones.

I really appreciate the "heads-up" on this!

Thanks much,

Jake

 

I figured I'd bring good tidings and cheer to this ever so long, ridiculous "my m0mz iz to blamez for my comP r'Z breking, y0'z!" thread...

Let's start with the drivers front:


Next we move on to the drivers. rear:


Pass. front:


drumroll please............................................ ..............

Finally................ pass rear:


HOLY HELL!!! THEY'RE ALL IN TACT!!!

This driving on a GM847, taking to between 6300 to 6500rpm. They have more than 4000 miles on them. Wonderous thing when you have a valvetrain doing what it was intended to do.

/thread

P.S. These very Comp R's will be for sale soon.

 

Are you saying that these lifters don't **** themselves, and every person who has had them screw up must be an idiot? Hehe. I don't know if you're serious or if I'm supposed to read between the lines.

 

What I'm saying is there is NOT enough info on this lynching type of thread to come up with a solid conclusion of who is at fault here. Based on some of these entries it reads more like operator error than the lifters themselves. There is more to the valvetrain than just the lifters. From what I've read and seen in the pictures it would seem the clips are more fragile than the Comp R's of old, but there is absolutely no solid evidence as to why they break. Do they just break on their own or is the plunger making contact with them? Why are pushrods walking off the plunger and hitting the clips (as seen in some of the pics on this thread)? Why aren't my lifters broke? They're made out of the same material. So why don't I have broken/bashed up clips that I have to go digging into my oil pan to retrieve? Mine must be magical. Does everyone involved in this thread believe the plunger should make contact with the retaining clips?
I mean the original poster who started this thread doesn't have a clue as to why they break:

So lets not explore why they break. Lets just claim they are bad. That's fascinating work right there. Anyone who believes this garbage must like their wool coat.

 

Well, I really hope it is my lifters that are bad. I had maybe 15 miles on my car before it started running like complete dog****. I don't think they should go bad in a day. But, we'll see what happened when I take my intake off.

I need to ask though, how come nobody else is having problems with THEIR lifters? Why are these the only brand that seems to be causing so much problems?

 

My best guess? As I said from the looks of the clips and the content of these posts it would seem the clips are a bit more fragile than other lifters. They really don't like the plunger getting slammed into them or a pushrod walking off the beaten path and hammering the snot out of them by either valve float, pushrod deflection or whatever else may cause slack in the valve train. They have much less margin for error especially when adjusting valves.
Contrary to what smokin' rockstar Bret says, never EVAAAAAAAAAR is the plunger supposed to "act" on the clips after the valvetrain has been properly adjusted. Meaning the clip and plunger should NEVER come in contact with each other. The only sole purpose the clip has is to keep the plunger in place when there is no adjustment/pushrod in place.

 

5k miles on my "old style" comp R's revving to 6800 no problemo

 

I had my lifter retaining "C" clips break on my comp R lifters, but other than that they work fine. I actually think removing the "C" clip may be a good idea so you dont have this problem in your intake later down the road.

 

well i can add to problems with this mine messed up in less then 100 miles. i set zerq lash then went 1/8 th turn more like they said. well i drove to the insurance friday and it felt like i was loosing power i barely pulled on a grand cherokee with 4.7. then left insurance car was not responding to the throttle. car didnt want to idle right or rev. pulled the intake and found busted clips. trying to clean everything back up and try to but my car back together. motor is a 383 lt1 splayed 4 bolt, forged, 12:1 compression ,cc468 cam, 7/16 rocker studs, le3 heads, gmp timing set, 58 mm tb, 44lb injectors, fuel regulator, electric water pump, lt's, 3"ory, msd wires and coil, crane fireball ignition. i checked with comp on settings before install and now im having to tear apart again because they fell apart.

 

So retaining clips are responsible for power loss if they break? Fascinating...
The ones I have pictured above are for sale if you'd like to give it another "zero lash+1/8 turn" shot.