LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Comp R's

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Old Oct 12, 2008 | 10:13 PM
  #196  
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From: Jackstandican
Originally Posted by 97 RedSS
Pulled my intake the other day and all my comp r's were still together.
Are these the old style or newest style retainers??
Those are the newer style. Looks as though your valve train is healthy.
Old Oct 13, 2008 | 03:05 PM
  #197  
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I have been running comp r's for 3 yrs and 30k miles. Adjusted at 1/4 turn past 0 lash with afr springs at 150 seat and 355 open psi. Never had to re-adjust or had any problems. Mods in sig.
Old Dec 14, 2008 | 03:49 PM
  #198  
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ran mine for 4 seasonws, bout 8k miles. no probs w/mine either. the orig style i believe. bought in 03 pretty sure.
Old Dec 14, 2008 | 04:04 PM
  #199  
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oh, just went back a page and mine are the same as those. w/sheetmetal looking clips.

either way, bout 1/8 turn lash. shifted at6500 all the time.
Old May 4, 2009 | 08:39 PM
  #200  
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From: Jackstandican
Here is an example why you should NOT read and believe anything the original poster has hacked from a keyboard:
http://www.hardcorels1.com/vbulletin...8&postcount=28
I would request this thread be unstickied and wither away into oblivion where it belongs.
Old May 5, 2009 | 01:32 PM
  #201  
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Hello to the forum. A member from the Gainsco team forwarded a link to this post to us.


I am the lead engine builder at CRD Engine Development. I build the engines that power the car in that photo. Along with the owner, Bob Cronin, I moved out to NC from CA years ago and have been with the company since 1990.


Bret, we have never heard of or dealt with you or "Bauer Racing Engines."

You are clearly referring to Joe Mendelis in your post. Joe was hired into an entry level cylinder head maintenance position along with 2 other SAM students several years ago. His duties did not include R&D, but were limited to the basic freshening & machinework on existing cylinder head designs. This included honing guides, applying or touching up existing valvejobs, and minor cartridge roll blending. Joe was given an opportunity to produce his own master cylinder head. Unfortunately, it was significantly down from our then current design. After a relatively short stint with us, 1 year or less, Joe was let go for a couple of reasons. Not the least of which was the online posturing and sharing of proprietary data in an attempt to lend credibility to his online persona.

The cylinder head ports that were run while Joe was employed here were developed by a past employee named Allan. We have since moved on from that revision of our DP head, but that did not occur until well after Joe had been released. We heard that Joe has since passed (RIP).

I appreciate your enthusiasm for motorsports and DP specifically. In the future, we would appreciate it if you would refrain from pretending to have any sort of involvement with us or the teams we support.

I hope this helps clear things up.

Jack
Old May 5, 2009 | 02:43 PM
  #202  
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From: Kantuckee Yo'
Not knowing the history. I guess you are implying that BB was a major dousche.
Is that correct?
Old May 12, 2009 | 12:42 PM
  #203  
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Can anyone confirm exactly which part #s are the Comp R's? Are they the 875-16s?

Then, if so, once confirmed - Can someone add it to the first post so it's easier for people reading this post? Tons of talk about Comp R this and Comp R that but no one is confirming what part #s the Comp R's even are.
Old May 12, 2009 | 09:53 PM
  #204  
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thats because it was like 5 YEARS ago dude. I see NO REASON for this to be a sticky anymore. they have changed design. and I think this was all for nothing to begin with. out of the thousands of sets that were prolly sold, small percentage had the "problem".
Old May 28, 2009 | 11:52 AM
  #205  
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I think I have a 875-16 Comp Cams Pro Mag Lifter tick:

http://www.mediafire.com/download.php?j2un3jddtzj UPDATED LINK! IT WORKS NOW

Im attaching an audio file, it plays using Quicktime (doesnt play in my Winamp). I have what sounds like one lifter ticking madly away,
If anybody wants to chime in I'd really appreaciate it. Didnt know where else to post this but saw other Comp Cams 875 posts in here.

There's about 6800miles on a 383 Forged rebuild and about 7psi and 6200rpm rev limited only recently moved up to 9psi. Ticking is getting worse and worse as miles rack up. When I drive this car Im usually always into the throttle at least 2 times out of a trip, so it's beat on everytime I drive it .
It really only does it when warm, and worse at idle than anywhere else though around 2100rpm when oil is nice and hot I can hear it decent inside the car.
Oil pressure is about 30-40psi at idle undess real real hot.
It ticks worse as the oil gets hot.
Sounds like it's near the middle of the d-side bank, so maybe cyl 5? Sounds like it's under the valve cover but seems just as loud from underneath.
It doesnt do it when oil is cold, thought this morning I did hear it before oil pressure built up which is rare... thinking it's getting worse real fast.
Right now it has 5w 40 Rotella Synthetic with about 1500 miles on the oil.
Changing to Trick Flow guideplates did not do one thing
Adjusting rockers when running did not one thing either.
Cam is 230 intake, 234 Exhaust. Lift equates to 0.564" Intake, 0.576" Exhaust using 1.6 ratio CCA-1302-16 Rockers.

I havent had the intake off yet but all the rockers, valves, pushrods look great and it runs perfect, Im worried this ticking could turn into a blown motor if a lifter falls apart and creates a mess.

I dont know what version 875-16's I have as I didnt take a picture but I think I bought them around 2007.

Any helpful advice, should I immediately stop running it?
I think AI reccomended these rockers during the intial build: GM 12371042 Hi-Performance Roller Lifter Kit

Thanks everybody

Last edited by dookie454; May 28, 2009 at 10:00 PM.
Old May 29, 2009 | 11:44 AM
  #206  
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If this thread is stickied then why isn't there a sticky for running hv pumps with stock pans? From my experience I have never had a problem with my comp r's and I have never sucked the stock pan dry with a hv pump even at sustained 6k dyno runs. Just my experience.
Old May 30, 2009 | 12:47 AM
  #207  
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Originally Posted by RUDEDOG
If this thread is stickied then why isn't there a sticky for running hv pumps with stock pans? From my experience I have never had a problem with my comp r's and I have never sucked the stock pan dry with a hv pump even at sustained 6k dyno runs. Just my experience.
I never had a problem with Comp r's either except they sound like one is about to grenade and alot of people say the same thing, but again, no problem.

Just so happens the other 15 sound just fine, so come over and swap out my 1 noisy one and I'll stop complaining. I's just the 1 of the 16 lifters are messed up. Also seems to happen to alot of people so yes it's worth stickying.

On the other hand all 16 of the the GM version of the same thing seem to work just fine for everybody, every time, everywhere. That's all I want, is something that works and in this case Comp R's are failing.

I've also got a stock 120K mile 10 bolt and M6 behind a 650hp motor for the last 7000 miles, that means they are fine just like the Comp R's accoring to you.

Last edited by dookie454; May 30, 2009 at 12:53 AM.
Old May 30, 2009 | 10:26 AM
  #208  
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From: Jackstandican
Originally Posted by dookie454
That's all I want, is something that works and in this case Comp R's are failing.
... for reasons yet to be determined. There is nothing in this thread of substance other than "My rockers have failed..." It's too bad you can't see most of the pics anymore or you'd see overwhelming evidence of pushrods walking off the lifter plunger and destroying the clips. Of course, no one wants to blame their own mechanical wizardry. It's always the components fault...
The margin for adjusting error is FAR more prominent with Comp R's than any GM stock lifter. It says so on the instruction sheet provided. If memory serves they require a .006 to .008 adjustment, not to be confused with the ever-so-go-to-defualt "let's put 'er at 1/8 turn and call 'er custom"- adjustment.
It's also very interesting how the "OMG behives!" springs/cam combinations from the OP of this thread are notorious for valve float.
No one has yet to answer WHY a clip would fail when it has absolutely nothing to do with engine operation. The answer given by the OP regarding how a clip "acts" on the plunger just isn't good enough.
Old May 31, 2009 | 08:24 AM
  #209  
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Originally Posted by SS RRR
... for reasons yet to be determined. There is nothing in this thread of substance other than "My rockers have failed..." It's too bad you can't see most of the pics anymore or you'd see overwhelming evidence of pushrods walking off the lifter plunger and destroying the clips. Of course, no one wants to blame their own mechanical wizardry. It's always the components fault...
The margin for adjusting error is FAR more prominent with Comp R's than any GM stock lifter. It says so on the instruction sheet provided. If memory serves they require a .006 to .008 adjustment, not to be confused with the ever-so-go-to-defualt "let's put 'er at 1/8 turn and call 'er custom"- adjustment.
It's also very interesting how the "OMG behives!" springs/cam combinations from the OP of this thread are notorious for valve float.
No one has yet to answer WHY a clip would fail when it has absolutely nothing to do with engine operation. The answer given by the OP regarding how a clip "acts" on the plunger just isn't good enough.

This questions still goes unanswered: How come Comp-R's are garbage and no-one complains of the GM lifters?
Old May 31, 2009 | 10:22 AM
  #210  
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From: Jackstandican
Originally Posted by dookie454
This questions still goes unanswered: How come Comp-R's are garbage and no-one complains of the GM lifters?
Actually that question has been answered in this very thread, but here is the condensed version:
Those who run GM lifters usually adjust them to where the lifter plunger sits deeper into the lifter body/ further away from the clip which means more margin for error if valve float occurred. The clips on GM lifters are perhaps more durable which also widens that margin for error if valve float occurred.
Comp R lifters are to be adjusted precisely. They are dependent on a healthy valve train because of the minuscule adjustment required to run them and possibly weaker retainer clips that, once again, have absolutely no affiliation with the rest of the lifter while in operation (IE they do not "act" on anything other than keeping the plunger in place when there is no pressure from the pushrod.



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