ok so i have the car in my sig and i it has not yet been tuned but it will be this week. and i had i scanned becasue my check engine light came on,so it said it was an egr valve. but we looked at the data stream and saw that at idle its Advanced 26* and at 4k rpm it is Advanced 45*(wow) why is it so advanced and it is also running pig rich (would this be cause by being way advanced?) it really feels like it is missing kinda under 2Krpm any thoughts
OHH and i just put on the lt4KM (im getting 0 knock) it feels low on power

PLEASE HELP

 

Is your TPS switch adjusted properly?

 

what do you mean i thout it was just the tps sensor and its not ajustable is it?

 

The timing is picked off the tables in the PCM, based primarily on RPM and engine load (MAP). 45* is possible at low load (50kPa), at 4,000rpm the stock timing table has 42 degrees of advance. There's another 3* that gets added, apparently based on things like inlet air temp. So, 45* advance at 4,000rpm can be the result of stock programming. If the engine was under high load at 4,000rpm you would only see about 38* total advance. Its also possible to see 26* at idle, if the RPM is elevated a bit.

Which code did you get for the EGR system... DTC 27 for the EGR vacuum solenoid, or DTC 32 for no EGR flow? In either case, its not likely that those codes would cause it to run rich.

Under what conditions does it run rich - idle, part load, WOT, all of the above? What tells you it is running rich, other than the loss of power? Have you used your scanner to look at the long term fuel corrections corresponding the the RPM/MAP conditions under which you feel it is running rich? Something as simple as the valves being too tight could cause incoming air to blow through into the exhaust, and cause it to run rich. That would show up as elevated long terms (BLM's). Misfires make it run rich. Running righ can cause it to misfire.... which came first? Exhaust leaks before the O2 sensors can cause it to run rich. Faulty O2 sensors too. And it might be a better idea to get at least a basic tune for the cam in the PCM, before you jump to any conclusions.

Use your scanner to check the TPS voltage. Generally, the PCM will accept any reading between 0.25-0.90 V at closed throttle, and set that as the baseline for 0% throttle position. Some people prefer to set it at 0.50V or 0.67V.... but it shouldn't matter. Its not adjustable, unless you slot the screw holes in the sensor to allow it to be rotated.