LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

CAr runs kinda hot with a CSI

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Old Mar 30, 2004 | 07:05 PM
  #46  
xxsaint69x's Avatar
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i took the pump out..how freely should it spin by hand?
Thanks
Old Mar 30, 2004 | 07:44 PM
  #47  
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what is the optimum operating temp for an LT1?....my car stays pinned on 160* (180 stat and big fan wired to ignition)
Old Mar 31, 2004 | 06:01 PM
  #48  
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It should turn smoothly by hand, but you shouldn't be able to spin it (that it keeps coasting around when you let go).

The faster you go the hotter it gets, is it possible that your fans running at highway speeds is actually slowing down the airflow through the radiator? I don't even recall what the stock thermostat and fan settings are.

I'd check as someone mentioned that you don't have it wired backwards.

-brent
Old Mar 31, 2004 | 06:03 PM
  #49  
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Originally posted by LT1Squirrel
what is the optimum operating temp for an LT1?....my car stays pinned on 160* (180 stat and big fan wired to ignition)
Optimum for max power? BSFC? emmisions?

Pinned on 160 is too cool for any of those though.

I don't see how it could stay at 160 with a 180 stat even with the fan on all the time, without the stat opening the fan will be cooling coolant that isn't even circulated.
Old Mar 31, 2004 | 06:15 PM
  #50  
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how can you wire it up wrong? Ground and power source...thats it.
Old Mar 31, 2004 | 06:26 PM
  #51  
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I guess you got it right then

Just seemed logical that it would still cool the car, but not optimally if you had accidentally grounded the wrong one and reversed your reverse cooled lt1.

-brent
Old Mar 31, 2004 | 07:11 PM
  #52  
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Originally posted by xxsaint69x
how can you wire it up wrong? Ground and power source...thats it.
Electric motors can spin backwards if you wire them backwards...

Electric pumps make bleeding difficult. One thing I've seen done that I haven't seen mentioned here is to remove the t-stat and fill the block completely. Replace the t-stat and fill at the radiator. Then follow the normal bleed procedures. Bring the car up to temp, bleed, let it cool back down. Repeat three times. If this doesn't work, fall on your short sword...
Old Mar 31, 2004 | 08:59 PM
  #53  
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Thanks Bret.

Yep, heard the story ("my nemesis' demise") through a PM. I'll miss him.

WRT the coolant temps you're seeing Marcin. They aint nothing to worry about, so I really don't see the big huff that seems to be going on in this thread.
Put a 160º stat in there and you'll be sitting right where you want to be. But ~200º is not anything to worry about.

-Mindgame
Old Mar 31, 2004 | 09:09 PM
  #54  
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Originally posted by Mindgame
Thanks Bret.

Yep, heard the story ("my nemesis' demise") through a PM. I'll miss him.

WRT the coolant temps you're seeing Marcin. They aint nothing to worry about, so I really don't see the big huff that seems to be going on in this thread.
Put a 160º stat in there and you'll be sitting right where you want to be. But ~200º is not anything to worry about.

-Mindgame
yup, i am not really worried, i was just wondering why the temp went up istead of down Ill be puttin in a 160 thermo in few days.
Thanks
Marcin
Old Mar 31, 2004 | 09:13 PM
  #55  
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Couple of things to clear up. The temp gauge does not measure "engine" temp. It's reading a coolant temp sensor. Using a more efficient coolant or adding something like Water Wetter will often result in HIGHER coolant temps. The coolant is absorbing more heat from the motor and thus is hotter. But the engine itself will be cooler, because more heat is being removed.

Rich Krause
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