Knock Sensor Mod
08-30-2002, 08:00 PM
#1
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Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Calgary, Ab, Canada
Posts: 731
Knock Sensor Mod
Hey guys. How do I do the knock sensor mod so that it no longer retards the timing. I am not sure if it is, but I would like to try to bypass it to see if maybe it is 'causing my problems. If so, will try to find the knock. I got headers, LT4 KM and RR but they are kinda noisy and I don't know why. Thanks.
P.S. Can I just take it out of the block and wrap it in something to dampen any knock/shock, and then tie-wrap it to something on the car? Or, do I have to get a new KS? Thanks.
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1988 Trans Am WS6, 355/T5/3.27 posi; RPM heads and Intake; Crane Fireball cam; Holley 750 carb; th350 & 10" converter.
1994 Trans Am LT1/T56, no cat; Hooker CB; Edelbrock Headers; Hotch. SFC and STB; Ripper shifter; Poly mount; Lakewood LCA; Sphoon LCA RB; Adj. PHR; K&N FIPK; Hypertech Airfoil; Ported & Polished MAF; Sprint springs & Bilstein shocks; GM Motive 4.10; Comp Magnum Pro 1.52 RR and guideplates; CSI Electric Waterpump; !TB; !AIR; Spec Stage II clutch; 1LE driveshaft (stock); 21mm rear sway bar; LT4 KM;
P.S. Can I just take it out of the block and wrap it in something to dampen any knock/shock, and then tie-wrap it to something on the car? Or, do I have to get a new KS? Thanks.
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1988 Trans Am WS6, 355/T5/3.27 posi; RPM heads and Intake; Crane Fireball cam; Holley 750 carb; th350 & 10" converter.
1994 Trans Am LT1/T56, no cat; Hooker CB; Edelbrock Headers; Hotch. SFC and STB; Ripper shifter; Poly mount; Lakewood LCA; Sphoon LCA RB; Adj. PHR; K&N FIPK; Hypertech Airfoil; Ported & Polished MAF; Sprint springs & Bilstein shocks; GM Motive 4.10; Comp Magnum Pro 1.52 RR and guideplates; CSI Electric Waterpump; !TB; !AIR; Spec Stage II clutch; 1LE driveshaft (stock); 21mm rear sway bar; LT4 KM;
08-30-2002, 08:53 PM
#2
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Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Battle Creek, MI
Posts: 3,532
go to Radio Shack and pick up a 1 watt 3.9k resistor. Unplug the connection to the knock sensor and hook the resistor up to the plug on the end of the wire, then wire it to ground. This will make the computer think there is NEVER a knock, so beware...if you get a bad batch of gas or something....
You can't just wrap it up and tape it out of the way unless you run something to ground the body to the block or frame.
There is only one wire that goes to the knock sensor. It gets its ground from contact with the block itself.
You can't just wrap it up and tape it out of the way unless you run something to ground the body to the block or frame.
There is only one wire that goes to the knock sensor. It gets its ground from contact with the block itself.
08-30-2002, 10:02 PM
#3
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Clarksville, IN
Posts: 481
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by IgorT.455/406:
Hey guys. How do I do the knock sensor mod so that it no longer retards the timing. I am not sure if it is, but I would like to try to bypass it to see if maybe it is 'causing my problems. If so, will try to find the knock. I got headers, LT4 KM and RR but they are kinda noisy and I don't know why. Thanks.
</font>
Hey guys. How do I do the knock sensor mod so that it no longer retards the timing. I am not sure if it is, but I would like to try to bypass it to see if maybe it is 'causing my problems. If so, will try to find the knock. I got headers, LT4 KM and RR but they are kinda noisy and I don't know why. Thanks.
</font>
(That should be your first step.) If so, look for exhaust leaks around the header flanges or places your exhaust maybe touching the car and rattling. Also there has been some discussion on ported MAFs causing it. I would not recommend bypassing the sensor.
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Darrell
95 Z28 (Blue w/ white stripes)
Mods-Exhaust, Gutted cat, AS&M C.C. Headers, All the bolt-ons, Full MSD ignition, Nitrous Works Kit, Walbro 255 in tank pump, 4.10's, Lt1 Edit
Best 1/8 e.t.(n/a) 8.70@81mph
Best 60 ft.(n/a) 1.97
Times are with 6-10* false knock.
No current nitrous times.
383 parts collection underway.
08-31-2002, 11:22 AM
#4
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Calgary, Ab, Canada
Posts: 731
Well, I also have a good working stock MAF I could try, that would not be a problem. I am going to run premium fuel and see what happends first. I like the resistor idea, it sounds good. Thanks!!!
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1988 Trans Am WS6, 355/T5/3.27 posi; RPM heads and Intake; Crane Fireball cam; Holley 750 carb; th350 & 10" converter.
1994 Trans Am LT1/T56, no cat; Hooker CB; Edelbrock Headers; Hotch. SFC and STB; Ripper shifter; Poly mount; Lakewood LCA; Sphoon LCA RB; Adj. PHR; K&N FIPK; Hypertech Airfoil; Ported & Polished MAF; Sprint springs & Bilstein shocks; GM Motive 4.10; Comp Magnum Pro 1.52 RR and guideplates; CSI Electric Waterpump; !TB; !AIR; Spec Stage II clutch; 1LE driveshaft (stock); 21mm rear sway bar; LT4 KM;
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1988 Trans Am WS6, 355/T5/3.27 posi; RPM heads and Intake; Crane Fireball cam; Holley 750 carb; th350 & 10" converter.
1994 Trans Am LT1/T56, no cat; Hooker CB; Edelbrock Headers; Hotch. SFC and STB; Ripper shifter; Poly mount; Lakewood LCA; Sphoon LCA RB; Adj. PHR; K&N FIPK; Hypertech Airfoil; Ported & Polished MAF; Sprint springs & Bilstein shocks; GM Motive 4.10; Comp Magnum Pro 1.52 RR and guideplates; CSI Electric Waterpump; !TB; !AIR; Spec Stage II clutch; 1LE driveshaft (stock); 21mm rear sway bar; LT4 KM;
02-05-2003, 02:37 PM
#7
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Winston Salem, NC
Posts: 956
running premium isn't going to do anything...you need to run race gas. The whole purpose of that is our cars shoul not be able to knock on race gas if they are in any decent tune at all, whereas they could still knock on premiumi.
BTW, you aren't running premium all the time? That could be your problem right there. These cars have high compression and some won't run right on anything less than premium gas...personally nothing but 92 or 93 has ever seen my tank.
BTW, you aren't running premium all the time? That could be your problem right there. These cars have high compression and some won't run right on anything less than premium gas...personally nothing but 92 or 93 has ever seen my tank.
02-05-2003, 03:40 PM
#13
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Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: T E X A S
Posts: 2,665
Originally posted by 96ZRDR
Yes, I am getting code 43. Are you? If I am not mistaken, the PCM will take off the max retard value of 12-15 degrees at all times, through the whole rpm range. Making the car a dog.
Yes, I am getting code 43. Are you? If I am not mistaken, the PCM will take off the max retard value of 12-15 degrees at all times, through the whole rpm range. Making the car a dog.
Sure am bud, the car runs like crap and gets no gas mileage at all. My A/C comp is bad and makes a lot of noise, like you can hear it over the radio inside the car over the exhaust. So i think thats what the car is picking up, I need to put the 1le a/c delete pulley in. By the way impresive 93 Trans Am, I wish mines was any were near as fast or nice. Damn dude, I'm searching for that page that shows how to do the knock mod on 93s, ok here we go
http://www.charm.net/~mchaney/knock.gif
Last edited by neil350; 02-05-2003 at 03:46 PM.
02-05-2003, 04:03 PM
#15
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Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: T E X A S
Posts: 2,665
Originally posted by turbo_Z
if you guys are having a problem with code 43 then fix it right.
if you guys are having a problem with code 43 then fix it right.
Not that simple, its doing its job, just picking up the wrong thing for knock. In my case the a/c comp, which I will soon fix.