CAr runs kinda hot with a CSI
I'm not an expert on the inner workings of electric h2o pumps but I believe they run at a constant rate correct?
If the engine is turning more revs then it's producing more heat (friction). If the pump is constant rate then it stands to reason that temps will rise with increased friction (more revs).
Then again, I'm basing that on my assumption so take it with a grain of sodium chloride.
-Mindgame
If the engine is turning more revs then it's producing more heat (friction). If the pump is constant rate then it stands to reason that temps will rise with increased friction (more revs).
Then again, I'm basing that on my assumption so take it with a grain of sodium chloride.

-Mindgame
Originally posted by Mindgame
I'm not an expert on the inner workings of electric h2o pumps but I believe they run at a constant rate correct?
If the engine is turning more revs then it's producing more heat (friction). If the pump is constant rate then it stands to reason that temps will rise with increased friction (more revs).
Then again, I'm basing that on my assumption so take it with a grain of sodium chloride.
-Mindgame
I'm not an expert on the inner workings of electric h2o pumps but I believe they run at a constant rate correct?
If the engine is turning more revs then it's producing more heat (friction). If the pump is constant rate then it stands to reason that temps will rise with increased friction (more revs).
Then again, I'm basing that on my assumption so take it with a grain of sodium chloride.

-Mindgame
Ryan
Originally posted by Mindgame
I'm not an expert on the inner workings of electric h2o pumps but I believe they run at a constant rate correct?
If the engine is turning more revs then it's producing more heat (friction). If the pump is constant rate then it stands to reason that temps will rise with increased friction (more revs).
Then again, I'm basing that on my assumption so take it with a grain of sodium chloride.
-Mindgame
I'm not an expert on the inner workings of electric h2o pumps but I believe they run at a constant rate correct?
If the engine is turning more revs then it's producing more heat (friction). If the pump is constant rate then it stands to reason that temps will rise with increased friction (more revs).
Then again, I'm basing that on my assumption so take it with a grain of sodium chloride.

-Mindgame
You're right saint.
There's a balance there somewhere but that'd be a tough one to calculate (coolant temp drop vs airflow).
Thanks Ryan!
Had to break out the Kleenex on that one.
-Mindgame
There's a balance there somewhere but that'd be a tough one to calculate (coolant temp drop vs airflow).
Thanks Ryan!
Had to break out the Kleenex on that one.

-Mindgame
Originally posted by Mindgame
I'm not an expert on the inner workings of electric h2o pumps but I believe they run at a constant rate correct?
If the engine is turning more revs then it's producing more heat (friction). If the pump is constant rate then it stands to reason that temps will rise with increased friction (more revs).
Then again, I'm basing that on my assumption so take it with a grain of sodium chloride.
-Mindgame
I'm not an expert on the inner workings of electric h2o pumps but I believe they run at a constant rate correct?
If the engine is turning more revs then it's producing more heat (friction). If the pump is constant rate then it stands to reason that temps will rise with increased friction (more revs).
Then again, I'm basing that on my assumption so take it with a grain of sodium chloride.

-Mindgame
But like Mindgame said, that might not be the problem at all.
The airflow is cooling the water in the radiator, not the water in the pump or block. If it can't pump it fast enough, the engine isn't going to cool down...or indicate that is anyway.
There was another thread that questioned the accuracy of the LT1 temperature sensor. Might want to switch to that 160 thermostat and reprogram your fans. Or get a manual switch.
There was another thread that questioned the accuracy of the LT1 temperature sensor. Might want to switch to that 160 thermostat and reprogram your fans. Or get a manual switch.
I have the same problem with my pump. The temps run about 190 or so in town and around 200 on the highway. It's no where near overheating, so I've just left it that way. The oddest thing is that it seems to run hotter when it's cold outside.
Last summer the car ran about 180 or so at 110 degrees outside temperature with the AC on running at 2500 RPM going down the highway. This winter with the heat on, it was doing 195 or so.
I have never had the temp gauge more than halfway between the first and second marks (160 and 210, I think), no matter what.
My thinking is that the engine is actually OVERcooling in the winter. The electric pump puts more water through the block at almost all RPMs. If the water doesn't stay long enough to cool the engine, then the engine heats up.
BRAD
Last summer the car ran about 180 or so at 110 degrees outside temperature with the AC on running at 2500 RPM going down the highway. This winter with the heat on, it was doing 195 or so.
I have never had the temp gauge more than halfway between the first and second marks (160 and 210, I think), no matter what.
My thinking is that the engine is actually OVERcooling in the winter. The electric pump puts more water through the block at almost all RPMs. If the water doesn't stay long enough to cool the engine, then the engine heats up.
BRAD
Originally posted by shadydavy 95 TA
That's what I was trying to say in my post. The constant speed that the pump turns at idle is fine for cooling at idle, but with increased loads/friction/temperatures at highway speeds, it doesn't "keep up with the engine" like the factory one does.
But like Mindgame said, that might not be the problem at all.
That's what I was trying to say in my post. The constant speed that the pump turns at idle is fine for cooling at idle, but with increased loads/friction/temperatures at highway speeds, it doesn't "keep up with the engine" like the factory one does.
But like Mindgame said, that might not be the problem at all.
I guess you have to look at the GPM of the pump. I believe the Electric pump is around 55gpm constant and you would think that the stock pump is around that at max RPM.
The electric pump helps at idle since it moves more water thru the system, when the airspeed/volume thru the ports is lowest. Still the motor running will keep the intake cooler than with it off and heat soaking. Unless you throw some ice on it!
The cylinder temp is going to be the biggest contributor to the engine temp rising, so that means the more WOT and high RPM is going to raise the motors temps. Moving more coolant thru the motor all the time will help keep it cool and cool it down. All depends on how much is being pushed thru the system, the more coolant the better, but you still have to get the heat out of the coolant.
Bret
Originally posted by xxsaint69x
hmm i dont know, i did a search on this and looks like i am not he only one having this problem
THERE IS NO AIR IN THE SYSTEM!!!! What should i check next?
hmm i dont know, i did a search on this and looks like i am not he only one having this problem
THERE IS NO AIR IN THE SYSTEM!!!! What should i check next?
Mine did the same thing. I could hear it running so I thought everything was fine. The answer was, the pump was about to quit on me!! I've gone through 2 of those pieces of crap within a 4 month period. I had to re/re the waterpump so many times I can do it blind folded. I'll never buy another one again. Most people I talk to have had good luck with the meziere. But who knows??? All I know, is that it sucks getting stranded on the highway!!
I just installed a used meziere with a 160, one gallon of coolent and a bottle of water weter, rest water, my fans arn't coming on early yet, I haven't programmed it yet, and I can't get the car to heat up.
Someone asked back on page one, but as I looked through yor posts I didn't see you answer, maybe I missed it, but do you still have the air dam installed on the car? If you dont temps will increase as you drive.
-Tony
-Tony
Originally posted by Mystic95Z
Someone asked back on page one, but as I looked through yor posts I didn't see you answer, maybe I missed it, but do you still have the air dam installed on the car? If you dont temps will increase as you drive.
-Tony
Someone asked back on page one, but as I looked through yor posts I didn't see you answer, maybe I missed it, but do you still have the air dam installed on the car? If you dont temps will increase as you drive.
-Tony
Marcin
I had the Mezeire on for about a year ran at about 165-175 no matter what, then the brushes screwed up and car kept overheating due to slower pump speed. switched to a CSI last August car runs around 165 at idle and climbs to near 180 on the freeway. I have the 160 tstat with an 1/16 inch hole drilled in it to
eliminate any air problems. Mine also runs slightly hotter when it is cold outside, I am guessing this is due to the tstat staying closed most of the time. Did you check to see if the pump was spinning in the right direction? Some have wired it backwards. I think you will be ok if you switch to a 160 tstat. Hope you get it figured out.
Larry
eliminate any air problems. Mine also runs slightly hotter when it is cold outside, I am guessing this is due to the tstat staying closed most of the time. Did you check to see if the pump was spinning in the right direction? Some have wired it backwards. I think you will be ok if you switch to a 160 tstat. Hope you get it figured out.
Larry


