I believe this is the cc503. (double check with someone else before buying)

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-07-503-8/

Summit Racing Part Number CCA-07-503-8

Cam Style Hydraulic roller tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range 1,800-5,800
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift 224
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift 230
Duration at 050 inch Lift 224 int./230 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration 276
Advertised Exhaust Duration 281
Advertised Duration 276 int./281 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.503 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.510 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.503 int./0.510 exh. lift
Lobe Separation (degrees) 112
Intake Valve Lash 0.000 in.
Exhaust Valve Lash 0.000 in.
Computer-Controlled Compatible No
Grind Number LT1 XR276HR-12

 

Yes, the information above is correct.
In a nutshell what the above says is that the lift with 1.5 rockers is .503 (intake) / .510 (exhaust) and the duration is 224 (intake) / 230 (exhaust).

 

Look at Comps catalog - http://www.compcams.com/technical/Ca...07/168-169.pdf

As you can see, the part number 07-305-8 is associated with the grind number: 276HR-14 and that cam is often referred to as a "305". So, the cam you were looking at is commonly known as a "503".

Rich

 

Cam Basics

Read that and it will give you a general idea

 

any place cheaper than summit? i hate their prices... but beggars cant be choosers so thanks guys. also what are a nice set of stainless heads i can buy??
i broke a lot of stuff taking my camaro apart last week. so if i called the junkyard, do you think they would know what i meant by a steam pipe??
also, i noticed the radiators on ebay (all 1 trillion of them) were all really cheap and said brand new. is it a scam to buy off their, or should i just buy one from summit or something. the thought of something used that's supposed to never even be opened being sent to me scares me.

 

You mean Stainless Headers? They don't make Stainless Heads. Why are you looking for a radiator? Is yours completely busted? If the plastic tanks on the side are leaking, you can have those fixed, no need to buy a new radiator. They may not know it as the "steam pipe", but if you tell them it's the crossover tube by the firewall that connects the two heads, they should be able to figure it out.

 

I prefer to buy local when possible and can usually get parts at jobber prices. But Summits margins are very small on most items, so I sometimes buy from them as it is very close to "jobber" and the itmes are often in stock. I guess I don't understand what you mean about their prices. The "jobber" price I pay for a shelf grind Comp HR cam is $224.50 and Summit is charging just $5 more than that! I'd say that is pretty amazing. Of course, you pay their $10.95 "handling" feee, but I have to pay shipping if I buy at the jobber price. I am not shilling for Summit but I can't see complaining about their prices.

Rich

 

sorry i meant headers i just woke up and was still half asleep sorry about that.

 

Read the Cam Basics thread that someone posted. If you still don't understand some stuff, please email me. Also, if your installing a camshaft, buy yourself a degree wheel.

And find one of the step by step guides online for installing a cam. You WILL need to change valve springs for that cam, as well as switching to Roller Rockers.

 

Got a qick ? for ya....what is the point of having a degree wheel with an LT1 other than having extra information ? I was under the impression that LT1's (Cam to cam gear to Opti) pretty much went together 1 way, and there isn't any "degree'ing" to it.

OP....switching to roller rockers is not mandatory, but it is advised since you will already be in there.

 

I've had this little debate quite a few times with a guy I know and from what I understand ... any cam can have error tolerance when it's ground... just because it's SUPPOSE to be correct when you put it in doesn't mean that it's actually degreed correctly. For "ultimate performance" or "ultimate assurance" people recommend still degreeing which means if it's off you have to drill a hole through your gear so the cam dowel pin when it's poking through the cam gear is in the right spot (IE: if the cam is degreed incorrectly you're forced to move the hole the dowel fits through so the cam's degree is correct yet still maintains the proper "dot to dot" alignment)

That said - I know quite a few people who just shrug it off and don't use a degree wheel just the same [myself included]

 

Ok, that is pretty much what I thought. So basicly, for a guy just starting out with things (OP), there is really no reason to go all "NASCAR" with such a minor cam, and the degree wheel is not needed.

Thanks,

 

No it still is needed... What happens if somehow you get a defect that left the factory with the dowel located in the incorrect spot? It could force the pistons into the valves when you crank the motor over.

Plus, if it doesn't run properly when assembled, its one more thing already checked off your list.