I want to relocate the battery to the trunk for better traction/clean up the front/easier access to wires. On a tight budget, I'm going to build a box and mount for the passenger spare tire area. Going to cut off the mount for the manual antenna on the body for more room. I've searched and haven't found the answer I'm looking for.

I understand nhra rules want it sealed/vented/kill switch. Since I can't afford $100 kill switch at the moment, I just want to run 1 1ga wire to the front. Will that work for now? When I can afford the kill switch- I'll add the 4ga going to the alternator. Does this look ok?--->

Rear of car Front of car
__________________________________________________ ________
[Battery]
(+) ----------------1ga wire-------------------- (existing red)

(-) --1ga--(to chasis seat belt bolt) (existing black) --to chassis

I've seen it wired different, for example-
http://www.streetlethal.net/battery/ scroll to bottom
Why would + cable go to the starter first, rather than the junction block?

Or do I need to eliminate the + battery stock cable because its too small for this 1 ga wire (possible fire)?

Thanks,
James

 

I didnt wire the battery on my camaro so ill try my best to help ya. The junction has been relocated to underneith passenger fender and it really cleans things up. But anyways, I would run the 1ga to the junction and then run the stock wires from that to the starter and the other stock one to the alt. Im almost certain thats how mine is but i will double check this afternoon to let you know for sure. You can pm me if i forget to respond back.

Summit Racing has a kit that is $80 for a budget, but only has 2 gauge cable. Taylor makes one with 1 gauge cable that is $160. Im unceratain if you really need to run 1 guage or not...it has to be better though. Flaming River has a disconnect switch that is good for 250 amps and has a 18'' rod with a t-handle so you could mount it in the spare tire compartment also. It is 98.95 or you could get a summint switch for $50. I don't have a switch yet either and will probably go with the flaming river, it looks pretty nice. Hella has a switch and a removable key that you could use for the alt as it is only 100 apms but would be a great anti-theft device...no one would ever think to look in the back of the car under the bumper or wherever.

Hope this helps, and maybe i can get my car on the lift and take pics of the under fender junction box.

Later
James

 

You might also want to add at least 4ga ground from motor to chassis (firewall and radiator support) if you are going to terminate the battery ground at the seat belt bolt. The last thing you want are charging and computer issues. LF

 

Checked it and that is how its wired up, battery to junction from there to alt and starter. Starts and charges good.

 

Wiring the battery directly to the starter eliminates the resistance losses in the + box connections. Less wire, less junctions.

I would recommend a 0-ga wire.

Box has to be NHRA approved.

Switch is available for less the $100.

 

I guess it would be a good idea to rewire my car then. Do you just go to the alternator from the starter or starter-junction-alternator? Is the $50 summit switch any good?

 

Follow the wiring diagram linked above.

The heavy duty Summit switch has the same continuous amp rating as the Flaming River switch. The Flaming River switch only approaches $100 because of the handle and linkage that allows a "push-pull" setup.

Neatest install I've seen on a 4th Gen puts the battery outside the body, under the trunk well. No holes in body, handle comes off to make it virtually invisible when street driving.

 

That install is clean- do you have any more pics of that setup?? 1 thing I would do is make a plastic cover for the bottom of the battery to protect from road debris. Can my battery (autozone duralast gold) be installed sideways?

 

I just measured that spot and my exhaust tip is right there, so that's a no go.

 

No,your battery isn't sealed.

 

That car was a 30th SS with the SLP 2OTL exhaust, so it had no tip on the right side. At the time it was running a Mufflex 4" catback, with a single outlet on the left (He actually had the 2OTL tips weled on the Mufflex, so it would look "stock". I don't have any more photos.

 

So far I've built a steel mount with an aluminum box, put a 2ga ground wire from the driver head to the ground junction. Installed a power distribution block to replace the stock one. I decided I'm going to run a 4ga to the starter and alternator. Will take pics when I'm done.