Car Audio and Electronics Custom car audio/electronics questions and discussion

Stinger Circuit Breaker question

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 08-08-2002, 01:49 AM
  #1  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
PaulN64's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Macon,GA, USA
Posts: 1,288
Question Stinger Circuit Breaker question

I just bought a 100amp Stinger circuit breaker from ebay (for $31 I may add with a SGT4N super ground terminal). I want to test to make sure that the breaker will trip. Is there anyway to test it? I was thinking of hooking the battery side and just ground out the other side and see if the breaker trips. Any ideas?

------------------
1997 Camaro Z-28 SS #0728

Flowmaster, Hooker Header tips, BMR strut tower brace, lower control arm and relocation bracket, Optima Yellow Top battery, Granatelli lowering springs, KYB AGX shocks, Lakewood panhard rod, Bear bump steer, 17 x 9.5 Z06 rims

Audio/Video:
Head Unit ----- Pioneer AVX-P7000CD
Master Unit --- Pioneer AVM-P9000R
DVD Player ---- Pioneer XDV-P9

Front --- Focal Polykevlar 165K2 w/ TN-51 tweeters
Rear ---- Focal Polykevlar 165K2
Sub ----- Lightning Audio 10.2.4
Amp ----- Phoenix Gold XS6600

My SS homepage
CAR AUDIO PLANET
Georgia F-Body Association
PaulN64 is offline  
Old 08-08-2002, 05:39 AM
  #2  
Registered User
 
LS1 RULZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: OHIO Go Buckeyes!
Posts: 1,858
Post

DO NOT test it or you risk damaging your battery

From http://www.eatel.net/~amptech/elecdisc/caraudio.htm

Circuit Breaker:
A circuit breaker's function is, like a fuse, to break a circuit path when a predetermined amount of current is passed. In my opinion (And I agree), circuit breakers should never be used to protect electronic devices such as radios, amplifiers or crossovers. Most common circuit breakers (thermal snap action) take far too long to open the circuit path. This does not mean that they are not useful. When they are properly selected they do a good job of protecting wiring and devices such as electric motors. Some breakers are self resetting. Others require manual resetting. I strongly recommend using a manual reset type. This will allow you to watch for any problems when the circuit path is restored.

Reliability:
In my opinion and from my experience (And I agree), circuit breakers are less reliable than fuses (especially when the breaker is mounted in the harsh environment under the hood). Quality fuses like ANL and Maxi fuses have a solid element (no solder connections) and will almost never have an intermittent or poor electrical connection. A circuit breaker will eventually have higher contact resistance than when it was new. This is especially true if the breaker has been tripped (by overcurrent) more than a few times. If you're going to compete and can't take a chance of having a problem like a bad connection in the power line, you should use a good quality fuse. Now I know that people have had fuses blow in competition but it was because the fuse was not properly rated, not because the fuse was defective. For those who have had trouble with glass fuses, read the fuses page of this site.
LS1 RULZ is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Victor Lamb
Suspension, Chassis, and Brakes
3
08-26-2017 02:52 PM
Feffman
Autocross and Road Racing Technique
4
10-09-2015 05:42 AM
Injuneer
LT1 Based Engine Tech
5
12-15-2014 09:36 AM
nophix
Fuel and Ignition
3
11-30-2014 10:26 PM
DC's93Z
Show and Shine / Paint and Body Care
2
08-10-2001 05:45 AM



Quick Reply: Stinger Circuit Breaker question



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:00 PM.