Again, that is if you're on the compression stroke, TDC also happens on the exhaust stroke! Another thing to keep track of.

I have no problems setting lash but if you've never done it before it's best to eliminate as many variables as possible. People are easily confused about when the lifter is on the base circle and when zero lash is achieved. To eliminate any troubles adjust one lifter when it's adjecent one is at or near full lift, then you can be sure it's on the base circle. An understanding of how a hydraulic lifter works is also essential. When the engine isn't running, there's no oil pressure, the lifters will loosen up even at zero lash. Find zero lash, adjust, tighten, and don't worry when it becomes loose. I've seen several posts here by people who are confused why their freshly lashed valves are loose

 

Which I made sure to point out in my response. My point, however, is that if you start at Cylinder 1 TDC in the firing order, IE piston is at the top, both pushrods are down... there is nothing wrong with going cylinder to cylinder turning the crank 90 degrees. I think, as you noted the main problem is that people incorrectly find zero lash. I know I did that when I first learned to do it.

 

That's exactly how I did it the last 2 times and 1st time when I went 1/2 turn past zero lash, it was fine. Second time when I went 1/8, they were loose.

 

Yeah, I saw it in your response and also clarified in one of my posts.

I'm just trying to dumb it down as much as possible. If something can be done wrong, it will be done wrong

Clear understanding is always the problem. I do think the lash is a major issue. If you don't understand what's going on you get confused your first couple of times and wonder if you're doing it right. It's almost like some sort of magic. Instead of saying TDC on the compression stroke because it just works, I'd rather have people use my method and realize it's because if one lifter is lifted that high, the other is at zero lift. Unfortunately zero lash with a hydraulic lifter is harder to describe via the 'net

 

I found that to be too time consuming. You can do it with a little ingenuity and knowledge of the LT1 firing order and the 4 cycles.

Look at it this way:

1-8-4-3
6-5-7-2

So, at any given time, 1 and 6, 8 and 5, 4 and 7, and 3 and 2 are in the same position but 180 off on the cam.

Now, starting at cylinder 1 TDC compression stroke, both valves closed. You can adjust both of these... You know that both valves on 6 are open. Can't touch these. Lets think about what else is happening.

8 is coming up to TDC. It is the next one to fire. What do we then know about 8? We know for certain even if the cam was HUGE, no matter what the exhaust valve is already closed. So you can safely adjust 8E.

Then 4 is also coming up to TDC after that. Again, we know this is WAY past the exhaust stroke, and its just beginning the compression stroke. So, its safe to adjust 4E.

Now cylinder 3... 3 is headed towards BDC on the intake stroke. Safe to adjust 3E since this is also very much past the exhaust stroke.

Can't touch 6, as I said before, since its TDC both valves open.

Now, 5. If 6 is at TDC or near it on the exhaust (headed to intake) stroke then you know 5 is coming UP on the exhaust stroke following it. Well, it can't possibly be on the intake stroke yet, so go ahead and adjust 5 intake.

Same with 7, you can go ahead and adjust 7 Intake since this cylinder is just coming up from BDC after the power stroke.

You can also adjust 2 Intake now, since this cylinder is in the middle of the power stroke.

Turn the crank 360, and adjust whats left.

Saves time.

 

You may just require more than 1/8 turn. Use what works I keep them as loose possible without creating excessive noise. 1/2 has been well documented to hang valves open with the 'R' lifters at high RPM. If there's too much noise at 1/8 turn, try 1/4 turn

They can be touchy bastards

 

Damn you, don't go intimidating people after all my hard work to simplify things

 

I just starting this method cause when I read it, I didn't believe it'd work, so I sat down and thought about it in depth until I realized it always assures youre at least 180 degrees off on the cam, so you're at the base lobe. The problem I was having was that by the 7th or 8 time of moving the crank I was getting lazy.

 

Thanks Jared. Yep, I'm kinda happy I didn't have to go to an 847 to get there.

I'll have some track times this spring. We'll see if she's good for mid 12s with 6K shifting.

 

Nice numbers, congrats!

 

whats wrong with the 847 ? its not much bigger then your cam

Also, I would think that with a big cam like that, its best to do every rocker separately, wait until the valve is fully closed then adjust, the regular method works great (adjusting more then one rocker at same time) but I'm not sure if its the best method for big cams because of things like LSA/duration which might effect it.

 

That is extremely impressive.

 

Madwolf....Thanks for this post. You decided for me to swap my 227/233 for this cam.

I currently have the 227/233 not installed(new in box) but have seen nothing but reports of power dropping off before 6000rpm even...most are even with ported heads. If your confiden(the results seem to say so) that this XE grind cam is spinning that high on stock heads...then I think itll meet my 6300+rpm power/shift points...hopefully with more to spare. Im going to tape up my 227/233 box and mail it back off to combo tomorrow.

I was about to lose all hope in these XE cams cause none seem to make power over 6000rpm even with ported heads(from whats been posted on here at least). Then get a non xe grind cam....But yours looks good even on stock heads. Will probably be perfect with ported heads.

How did/does it pull down low? How much hp/tq were you making at 2000rpm? Also, how are the brakes? Im guessing theyre ok with these steep ramps and all, but would like to hear from someone with it in the car and running. Ill be in contact with you in the near future for some tuning help for this cam....think you can help

Awesome numbers on stock heads/tuning issues and an auto Thats an easy 400+rwhp cam with heads, fuel injectors, more tuning, cutout(if you dont have one)...a manual tranny would only make it easier

 

Hey Tanker whats up, I live in N.Y. and am interested in buying your 3.42 rear. My email address is overdrive6979@aol.com. My name is Antonio. Please email me as soon as possible with the information on this.

Thank You for your time! Antonio.

 

How my rear end is goiung get to NY It is taking space in my garage, but there will be lots of hasle to ship it. Maybe you could come to chicago to pick it up