When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Yellow wire with Two 15 fuses not connected to anything on the end under the hood but leading to what I believe is a ground and then continues what could this be and my blinkers do not blink I found a cut wire connecting the rear 2 blinkers and put it together but still nothing could this yellow wire be to my blinkers? If so what do I try next
Yellow wire with Two 15 fuses not connected to anything on the end under the hood but leading to what I believe is a ground and then continues what could this be and my blinkers do not blink I found a cut wire connecting the rear 2 blinkers and put it together but still nothing could this yellow wire be to my blinkers? If so what do I try next
The turn signals should get their power supply from the fuse block that's in the end of the instrument panel on the driver side. Test each side of the fuse with the key in the "ON" position with a meter or test light to ground. If there is power after doing this test, follow the circuit shown in the schematics and go to the flasher and test for 12V there and so one until.
As for the yellow wires under the hood, I have no idea what they may be for. It almost sounds as though they could have been added later by an owner. A wire connected to a fuse on one and the other end connected to a ground would be a direct short and not something that would have been done at the factory.
This is the yellow wire and as for motor 3.4 Sfi leaving work to try a few things now also those fuses are 15 two of them
I have no idea what those yellow wires are for. I don't believe that is factory wiring, so there is no way for me to know what they are controlling. If the wiring has been changed from the factory wired system, you'll have to trace those wires to see what they are connected to. As I mentioned before, the turn signal circuit is originally fused in the fuse block on the driver door side of the instrument panel. The power supply for the turn signals comes from the ignition switch to the fuse in the I/P panel, from the fuse panel to the flasher, from the flasher to the turn signal switch and so on until it reaches the lights. You're going to have to determine where you have 12V and where you don't because I can't help you any more without knowing.
.
The hazard lights are powered by a different fuse (I/P fuse #6), so you still need to check the power supply to the turn signals (I/P fuse #2). But that does tell the wiring from the switch to the lights are working correctly. The third page of the schematics posted above shows the turn signal switch contacts and their power supplies.
Last edited by peterpar; Dec 10, 2020 at 08:36 PM.
Reason: Corrected the Hazard Fuse Number
As far as I know, none of the factory wiring has inline fuses in that style. The closest match would be a fusible link. This has to be aftermarket.
I agree with you, Drew. The ring terminal end is definitely not something used from the factory. That type of insulation on the lug barrel is an over the counter style.
Used a test light on the fuse both sides lit up relay I replaced I believe it was my flasher relay in the steering column my hazards worked before and after so they have power going to them just when I turn the lever up or down nothing happens is there a way I can test the lever to see if it’s sending power out?
I appreciate the help like I said I’m a home worker not a mechanic but early 20s so no better time to learn than now
I don't feel like I've done a very good job explaining how the circuit works. You need to have an understanding of how the voltage moves through the circuit and also how the mechanical operation of the switches effects what you're trying to troubleshoot. This is why it is important to know how to read the circuit schematic. In this case, you need to check both sides of the fuse for 12 volts to a ground source. If you find you have 12 volts individually on both sides of the fuse with the ignition switch in the "ON" position, then the next thing to check is the flasher for power and operation. There should be two flashers in the same area under the dash. One is for the turn signals, the other for the hazards and the turn signal flasher will have a brown and a purple wire in the connector. The brown wire should have 12 volts to a ground with the key in the "ON" position and the purple wire should also have 12 volts to a ground if the flasher is installed. This would indicate the flasher is good. If you follow the wires in the schematic below from fuses, one fuse powers (#2) the turn signals and it's contacts in the turn signal switch and the other fuse (#6) powers the hazard flashers and the Emergency Hazard switch contacts. Both sets of contacts are part of the turn signal switch assembly. It is physically impossible for the power supply of the hazard lights to operate the turn signals the way the switch is designed. If you have determined there is power on both sides of the flasher, you need to check for 12 volts to a ground on the purple wire on the turn signal switch harness at the base of the steering column. This will tell if the switch is receiving voltage from the flasher and if it is, you should be able to operate the turn signal switch and have 12 volts on the green or yellow wires in the same connector depending on which turn signal is selected when doing so. If you don't get a 12 volt reading when doing this, the turn signal switch is bad and will have to be replaced. Try following the path of voltage from each fuse as it moves through the circuit to the light themselves. If you can visualize activating the turn signal and how the contacts will close and allow the voltage to pass on, what I've described should start making sense. I hopes this helps, but if it doesn't, I don't think I can explain it any better to make it any clearer.
Last edited by peterpar; Dec 12, 2020 at 12:32 AM.
