Kan$er

So I'm new to all this and not really mechanically savy. My 93 z28 ignition is crap. The wires for the connections that the key go to are completely chopped back behind the key insert spot so I can't sauder them and my car won't start. I've done the research all the way down to bypassing the vats via resistor. The problem I have is that my key reads 1.33. I don't see that being in any of the 15 resistor high and low. Is my meter jacked up or is there another way besides going through all 15 to find my resistor range?

Injuneer

Did you burnish the contacts on the key to insure there is no corrosion or dirt screwing up the reading?

GaryDoug

What are you using to measure the resistance? If it is a meter from Harbor Freight, those can be very inaccurate due to the probe design materials. It would not be unlikely to be off by the probable 170 Ohms difference you are seeing. What resistance does the meter read when you touch the two probes together?
Many of the very basic kits for this include all 15 resistors in one pack.

Kan$er

Yes I burned the connections also I do not know if the meter is from harbor freight I borrowed it from a 3rd party. I have about 100 different resistors now so I'm just going to have to do process of elimination. If I re-connected the white wires under the dash that are connected to the vats and connected the ones in the ignition back up to use the key, what does it mean when it starts off of a jump but after about five minutes the battery just drains drastically untill it dies? Is it not grounded somewhere or is the battery not holding a charge? My battery is good only about 6 months old.

Injuneer

Did you measure the key resistance directly at the key resistor “contacts” or did you measure it via the damaged wiring in the steering column (“connections”)?

Unclear as well... need to clarify - you reconnected the white wires on the steering column (but your first post says they are chopped back beyond the key cylinder, so you can't solder them), you insert the key, and turn it to "start". If you have a jumper battery on your battery, the engine starts and runs. But without the jump it will not start. Is that correct?

And even though it started, your battery drains after 5 minutes and the engine dies. Does the dash volt meter indicate the voltage is dropping steadily over that 5 minute period? If that's the case, might be the alternator.

What does the SECURITY light do when there is no jump, and the engine will not start?

And you have worked your way thru this writeup:

4th Gen LT1 F-Body Tech-PassKey/VATS