hey yall,

so I am tired of manually unlocking doors. I have no idea on where to start to test why it is not working. when i press the switches on the door i hear no relay clicking in the box by the kick panel. but when I press the lock button on the remote i hear a click. when I press the unlock button on the remote it is silent. My trunk pop button does work perfectly. but that is the only thing that works on the system. from some wiring diagrams it seems that the trunk is not wired with the other locks (correct me if I'm wrong.)

 

You need to provide basic into, like the year of your car.

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/lt1...nature-879835/

 

It is a 1995 Camaro Z. With I believe a 1996 pcm and engine. I have no idea how to check if that is true. The guy I bought it from said him and his dad blew the original engine to to reusing the bolts for the piston rod caps.

 

Shoebox has the 1995 wiring diagram:

Keyless Remote:

http://shbox.com/1/keyless_schematic.jpg

The hatch release switch bypasses the keyless entry receiver. The door lock buttons do not bypass the receiver.

I assume by "the box by the kick panel" you mean the keyless entry receiver in the passenger side kick panel:

http://shbox.com/1/keyless_entry.jpg

Let me see if I can get the attention of our electrical guru.

 

First, do you have a multimeter or some kind of continuity tester? That type will have a battery inside, not just a light. If not, get this one: 3 Piece Circuit Tester Set
If you buy this one, you will also need one AA battery for the continuity tester in the kit. Test the tester by touching the alligator clip to the pointed probe tip; the light should come on. If you don;t want to buy the kit, see the instructions below for bypassing the keyless entry module.

Unplug and remove the keyless entry receiver module behind the passenger side kick panel. Using the continuity tester, check for continuity between the following contacts in the black C2 socket (black) of the module (not cable): B (goes to red/black wire) to C (goes to gray wire), H (goes to one tan wire) to A (goes to orange/black wire), and H (goes to one tan wire) to G (goes to other tan wire). If all those check ok, the module is ok so reinstall it and plug in the cable. If not ok, you will have to replace it or bypass it. The continuity tester will light up when there is continuity. You may have to use a small piece of wire at the alligator clip end in order to make contact in the connector.

To bypass the keyless entry module temporarily: unplug it and jumper the following terminals in the black cable (not the module) connector C2: B to C, H to G, and H to A. For temporary use, ordinary straightened small paper clips may be used. Try to operate the door lock switches, if they work the module is defective. If they do not work, continue with checking the switches.

But first, report back here with your results.

 

Gary,
Great post. I appreciate the detail. I have a 95 z28, totally stock. One of the issues is the wireless control module. I ran the test you specified and will need a replacement control module. Any idea what part number I should search or where I can get one? Thanks man.
Danny

 

Here's a thread that has a photo the 95 keyless entry module (scroll down to 4th photo)::

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/car...r-come-872607/


It shows part numbers TRW ABO104R / 218 K1032. The first number is fuzzy in the photo, but doing a search on the second number produced this:

https://www.ebay.com/p/1640271738

Sold out, but appears to confirm part #.

 

Do these units have an aerial on them anywhere. I can't see anything on the pics.
Any way to increase the sensitivity on them?
Sometimes mine will open from the back of the car. After I've run it i seem to need to sit on the passenger wing to operate it.Batteries replaced.

Tia
Mitch

 

Oh, come on. Look at the first link Fred posted above. It is about that exact same thing. Personally, I would probably not do the mod described.

 

The thread I linked above explains what was done to increase the range of the module.

 

Sorry guys. I missed that one. I downloaded the schematic and Shoebox's images and still had the page open.
Gary: Why not ?

Mitch

 

It looks like I will have to go with some sort of aftermarket locking system. Since it was my dads car I want to keep it as close to stock as possible. For the time being I bypassed the system the way Gary described above. It worked like a charm - thanks for the tip Gary.

 

I have the same problem with my camaro same year my problem was with the remote itself my transceiver went so test out the remote as well it would be a shame if you spent hours on end trying to find a problem when the problem is in the remote.

 

I narrowed my issue in a different post to the keyless module, the TRW. One. I don’t have continuity between H and A. But do have it at the other two points. Interestingly when I did the bypass test. My switches all worked on lock unlock. But only the passenger lock moved. The driver side never moved to lock or unlock but the switch from driver side did work the passenger lock.