My '94 Z28 won't start, the engine spins but it acts like it's not getting any gas. When the fuel pump primes, it doesn't whine as steadily as it should anymore. Sounds much more low-pitched and as if it's laboring. My neighbor told me he thinks the opti went bad on it. I, however, am skeptical because I just had a new opti put on the car last year around this time and a new cap and plugs were also recently installed (this past August). Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

Go get something like this, it's not the best, but for one time or occasional usage it does the job. http://www.harborfreight.com/fuel-in...ter-92699.html . You can also force the FP to run with the FP prime connection to see if it stays on. Reference shoebox.. http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.htm...essure_testing. Remember the PCM only runs the FP 2 seconds when key is turned from off to on, PCM then needs OPTI pulses at correct RPM (engine started) to run FP continuously. The prime connection bypasses the FP relay and PCM to force pump on for testing only.. Security (VATs) will kill injectors (no fuel to intake)) but it would also kill the starter solenoid from picking so I won't go that way...

 

Have you scanned it for codes?

 

bobdec, thanks for the info, I'll be sure to check out that shoebox site some more. I'll have to invest in one of those FP testers as well. Injuneer, I have not had the car scanned for codes yet. I took it to auto zone and they couldn't do it because they didn't have the necessary OBD1 cable (which my car requires because it's older than a '96 and doesn't have OBD) to pull codes from my car.

 

Tried starter fluid today, unsuccessful after two treatments that fuel pump is still sounding awfully sluggish, I'd be shocked if that wasn't my issue.

 

if everything is functioning correctly besides the fuel pump the car should at least stumble or attempt to start with starter fluid.

I would get a fuel pressure tester- it will connect at the back of the fuel rail right before the fuel pressure regulator. That will at least tell you if you have pressure. You also need enough volume to run correctly but at least its a start.

Pull a plug wire and pop in a spare plug and ground it to the block and have a buddy try to start the car. If you don't have spark double check to ensure a good ground. If you are uncomfortable doing this they also sell a plug/spark tester.

 

Thanks for the info, procharged. I'll try and troubleshoot it using those methods and see what comes of it.

 

Does this have anything to do with or is this "jumpering" the fuel pump? If it's something different how do you go about doing it?

 

Had my neighbor listen to her try to turn over tonight, he thinks it's the opti....gonna try and get it switched out this weekend.

 

Your 94 has "OBD".... On Board Diagnostics. They just happen to be OBD-I, which was not standardized across various car manufacturers, like OBD-II. That's why you need an OBD-I cable.

 

I see, the person who originally explained it to me was a bit cryptic in his description, so forgive me for the vagueness. Couldn't get to the swap this past weekend, weather got the better of us, 36" of snow over a 3-day span. Just when I think we're catching a break, gotta love northern IN.