Fuel and Ignition Fuel Pumps and Systems, Ignition and Spark Systems

Access door to change fuel pump - 4th Gen

Old 09-24-2009, 05:58 PM
  #61  
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There's a few guys that had trouble getting the far one off, and they cut more metal away to access it, others just were able to get it off somehow. I know on mine it was extremely hard to get one of them off but I was able to do it somehow, I used the small plastic fuel line tools which are very compact and just need to be slid over the line, then popped into the fitting.
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Old 10-14-2009, 02:40 PM
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Geez, I'm surprised you were able to cut that, especially since theres no edge where you can start at the back of the blades.
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Old 11-01-2009, 10:34 AM
  #63  
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I'm not sure why this thread was even necessary, when there was a thread already stickied.

I'll merge it, but it would have been easier if all this was put in the "sticky" in the first place.
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Old 11-15-2009, 04:32 PM
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Cut mine today, My fuel level sending unit had quit and needed to be replaced. I decided while it was out to drop in a new pump as well. Local chevy dealer quoted me $535 to replace it. RIGHT!
I dig doing it myself.
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Old 11-16-2009, 03:42 PM
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So, I've not really done any metalworking stuff before, but this option seems really preferable than having to drop the tank...

I found a piece of sheetmetal at Lowe's for like $10.00, that I could cut the access door from... I've also got access to some heavy duty tin snips..

The part I am concerned about is properly creating the access door and sealing it up right.
Can anyone here go into a little more detail about this? What other things do I need?
What kind of screws would I need to get?
What type of sealant would be best to use for the door... I don't want to end up with carbon monoxide or fuel fumes leaking into my car.

Thanks a lot!.
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Old 12-06-2009, 08:44 PM
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I did mine about 3 years ago and have been back in there about 5 times. Gotta do it.
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Old 02-18-2010, 12:18 PM
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has anyone else had trouble getting the fuel pump back in the tank ?when i drop it in it seems like it goes most of the way in and stops.i see the hump in the middlle of the tank how do you get it over that to where the pump goes all the way in ?
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Old 03-19-2010, 12:05 PM
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Did anybody replace the door with a hindge?
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Old 03-19-2010, 08:51 PM
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Talking

cutting the access panel was great. im a big fan of it now. it took me all of an hour to cut the hole take the lines loss and pump the 255 grantelli in. i was ver unsure about it before but i like it now incase something goes wrong again.
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Old 04-17-2010, 05:17 PM
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After you cut the access hole, how do unhook all those lines on top of the pump? I see one small rubber hose on one of the lines, but how do you get to the other lines?
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Old 04-17-2010, 09:11 PM
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I'm not sure but I *think* you only have to squeeze the plastic tangs together on the side of the connector and it should slide off. Just like on the one end of the fuel filter.
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Old 04-18-2010, 06:49 AM
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Originally Posted by 1996greenZ28
cutting the access panel was great. im a big fan of it now. it took me all of an hour to cut the hole take the lines loss and pump the 255 grantelli in. i was ver unsure about it before but i like it now incase something goes wrong again.
It say's on Summits website that there was a major modification to install the Granitelli 255, any truth to that.
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Old 04-18-2010, 09:06 AM
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Hmm... I just looked at that pump on their site. Looks like the normal 255 that everyone here typically uses. I think if you follow any number of writeups on it(installing/replacing the fuel pump itself), you'll be fine. Perhaps they say it's a major modification in reference to pulling the gas tank out. That would be labor intensive. This thread is about avoiding all that tedium plus allowing quick access for maintenance, upgrades and/or future replacements.

Originally Posted by sscott
It say's on Summits website that there was a major modification to install the Granitelli 255, any truth to that.
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Old 04-19-2010, 04:52 PM
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I just picked up a piece of sheet metal from Lowes, I think it might be too small, it's 6" X 24". Just to be safe, I'm going to return it for an 8" X 24" piece. I also picked up some self drilling 8 X 1/2 Truss washer lath screws. Anybody have any input on what size sheet metal I need and or screws for that matter. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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Old 06-20-2010, 02:34 PM
  #75  
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Go back to page one, where the first link was. I've updated that post, with two other links. From the photos, you can determine the dimensions simply by looking at how the cover plate fits between the ribs on the deck, and where the actual cuts are. Measure that space on your car. The one link shows the sealant material used, and if you look very carefully, you can see the size of the self-tapping screws that were used.
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