Fuel and Ignition Fuel Pumps and Systems, Ignition and Spark Systems

Access door to change fuel pump - 4th Gen

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Old 11-18-2008, 01:15 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Shon Herron
I cut my hole Monday night and Wed night went to put my new Walbro pump in and it wont fit in the bucket, it feels like it is too large to fit in the 'hole' at the bottom, guess I will have to man up and really push it in....
Shon, did you get it to work? I had the same issue on mine and I know of many others who got a pump with no offset like the stock pump, but no details on how well they functioned. I just worry that there would be problems sending fuel if the pump doesnt fit the bucket 'hole' snug like stock.
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Old 11-18-2008, 06:15 AM
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Originally Posted by CamaroBoy96Z28
Shon, did you get it to work? I had the same issue on mine and I know of many others who got a pump with no offset like the stock pump, but no details on how well they functioned. I just worry that there would be problems sending fuel if the pump doesnt fit the bucket 'hole' snug like stock.
yeah, it went in and is working great!
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Old 01-21-2009, 09:02 AM
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I just did mine Monday night. Other than the fuel line clips being a pain, the pump came out pretty easy. I used these instructions. Worked perfectly!

http://www.geocities.com/formulapower2/fuelpump.html

[EDIT] As of 6/20/10 the above link was not working.

Last edited by Injuneer; 06-20-2010 at 02:21 PM.
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Old 02-19-2009, 09:47 PM
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I didn't read this whole thread but after doing the fuel pump swap via the "door" a few weeks ago and seeing countless people use grinders of some sort and dealing with sparks I thought I would throw this out there.


Tin snips. I do heating and air as well as venting so I used a pair of metal sheers, and it took all of about 2 minutes to cut that whole that I have seen some note in their tutorials, took much longer.
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Old 03-30-2009, 10:53 PM
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Door is the way to go...

Should have been there from the start, but GM had to save a few bucks -> no door...

Of course, I'm an airframe mechanic for the Army, so sheet metal work is easy for me...
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Old 03-30-2009, 11:02 PM
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Were these special or high end snips? All the ones I've used in other projects seemed clumsy. How did you start the cut?
Thanks
Originally Posted by 95 Mystic TA
I didn't read this whole thread but after doing the fuel pump swap via the "door" a few weeks ago and seeing countless people use grinders of some sort and dealing with sparks I thought I would throw this out there.


Tin snips. I do heating and air as well as venting so I used a pair of metal sheers, and it took all of about 2 minutes to cut that whole that I have seen some note in their tutorials, took much longer.
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Old 05-15-2009, 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by DirtyDaveW
Were these special or high end snips? All the ones I've used in other projects seemed clumsy. How did you start the cut?
Thanks
I'm interested in hearing about the snips also.
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Old 05-22-2009, 09:16 AM
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I also did the access door about a month ago and it was cake!! Used Wiss tin snips after drilling a pilot hole using a collar on the drill bit, just in case, and all went well!!
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Old 06-25-2009, 02:40 PM
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1997 z28 fuel tank access door

I want to thank you guys for all of your posting about how to replace a fuel pump. I have a 1997 z28 and unfortunately, the fuel pump went. I did not want to cut my 5 month old, custom from the cat back welded on exauhaust off and possibly have some mechanic damaging the fuel filler neck by letting the rear hang.
I chose to do it myself.. I used a dremel wheel and took my time making the access door.. I was a bit worried about hitting the tank but found that it is impossible to hit the tank when going slow. You have a decent amount of room to play with if it is cut in the right area. The pump I replaced my stock one with was an ACDelco FLS1077. I chose that pump because it came with the pump, sender, gasket and you don’t have to worry about possibly damaging your basket or resealing your basket. It is as simple as disconnecting the hoses and power; three are best to disconnect under the car one on top. Pulling out the old and dropping in the new, took all of 15 min. to replace after the access hole was cut. My car runs GREAT now.. No problems what so ever!!! Thanks again guys!!
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Old 08-15-2009, 06:35 PM
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I cut one on my vert but I don't know if the coupe and convertable are the same, if so I'll measure and possibly take pics.
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Old 08-15-2009, 07:03 PM
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There's a "sticky" covering this topic at the top of the "Fuel & Ignition" forum, where this topic is normally covered. I'll move your post there.
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Old 08-16-2009, 06:33 PM
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trap door

This is the BEST way to R&R the pump. Cut the hole with Sheet metal snips (aviation shears they are called) Left and right. Go to a sheet metal shop and get a 20 gage piece of gavalinized sheet metal 3 " larger than the hole. put gasket material around the panel and screw it down. Pre drill the holes in the panel, a slightly larger drill size than the screws. A # 10 pan head screw X3/4 " long -3 in each side. You can roll the carpet back away from the area before you cut the hole. Pre drill the corners of the opening with a 1/4 " drill bit, mark the outline of the hole and cut on the line and finish the opening with a file to smooth out the edges. Gorilla tape can also used to cover the rough edges of the cut metal. I've done it! Daunting at first, but take your time!! The top of the tank is about 1-1/2" -2" from the metal. Cut a small hole at first to get your exact location- its roughly centered on that metal shelf. Best of luck Ted
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Old 08-17-2009, 12:47 AM
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Did you use self tapping screws when you put the cover plate back on? If so, what size pre-drilled holes did you make? The pan head screw holds without tapping it?
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Old 08-19-2009, 07:12 AM
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I used a air powered cut-off wheel but I did not like all the sparks. I ended up making a larger hole so it was easy to access the quick disconnect fittings on the fuel lines. It took me maybe over an hour to have the car running again.
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Old 08-27-2009, 09:12 AM
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I don't really like the jigsaw idea, I don't think you will have the clearance to the tank, even with a block of wood, and then there is the wiring to the sender which can be easily cut, etc.....I cut mine with aviation snips with no issues.
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