Is there anything different for the procedure? I've done in on two 4th gens, but not on a 3rd.

I was reading about it on thirdgen.org the other day. I don't recall all the details, but it looks pretty much the same. The hole appears to be in the same spot.

Only difference I can see, the guys on thirdgen.org were having to cut the fuel hard lines to get the pump out. Then they patched them up with braided hose, or compression fittings.

Search the forum on thirdgen.org and you're sure to find the info you need. I was actually trying to find it for you, but their site seems to be down right now.

thanks! I will check that out!

I have a 96 SS and was wondering if anyone could give an fairly accurate measurement of the space between the tank/hoses and the floor. Just curious as I do not want to hit anything.

Also, would there be enough room to use a shears like this electric shears without hitting the tank or lines?



Thanks,
Clarke

I asked the same question awhile back but I think most people already have the carpet back in place before they measure it and just don't feel like pulling it apart to measure it. I think you'll just have to approximate based on the pictures.
Let me know about those shears. Looks like a good idea.

4" Grinder.....metal cutting wheel......17 minutes for the cut....taking your time...

Tape it off to reduce spark throwback....blanket your surround, easier to clean up later..

DO it.

-Ivan

I personally don't think there is enough room to use those shears. I actually got the measuements off another thread here and i actually went a little farther to the left with my cutting and im glad i did. I still had a little problem getting the fuel lines unhooked. But i did my cutting with a dremel tool, and like " iprice said use a blanket because there is alot of metal dust

The right way to replace the fuel pump would be to access it through the access door that GM engineered into the car in the first place. Oh, that’s right, they didn’t put one in. But they should have. Don’t do it the hard way just because GM didn’t put in a door like they should have.

I just did the access door and I believe I could have used the electric metal shears I asked about previously to open it up... not definite though as I do not know how far the jaw opens.

I did not feel comfortable using a die grinder and decided to go with a tin snips like this:


I drilled a 1/2" hole at each of the 4 corners and used the snips to open it up. The metal is thin and cut very easily. Also made a nice clean, straight cut. I would definitely recommend using a snips for anyone not wanting to use the grinder.

The best way to go IMO!

i just did this last night and it worked great

I cut my hole Monday night and Wed night went to put my new Walbro pump in and it wont fit in the bucket, it feels like it is too large to fit in the 'hole' at the bottom, guess I will have to man up and really push it in....

I don't know if its different for the LT1, but on my 98 I just removed the bucket altogether. Just used a couple hose clamps to hold it on, never had a problem in 5 years.

i just used the hose clamps but i put twin 255 in last night but the car running funny i think it too much fuel or my comp need to relearn the motor

i did the same as kevin and i've had no problems. as long as the carpet can cover it up and i can't see where any body harm could come from... go for it. i've had no issues and it's deff made my job easier. just because GM didn't install it doesn't mean it won't/can't work. if you are concerned about leaking issues just proseal it.