T76 vs F1/F1a
12-29-2008, 06:17 PM
#17
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: capshaw, AL
Posts: 254
In my experience, you run into drive issues with a centrifugal above ~13 psi and/or 600 rwhp. Your typical 8 rib setup definitely won't cut it. That's why I switched to a turbo.
As far as octane goes, if you have low compression and a good intercooler, you can get away with as much as 17-18 psi. If you add Methanol, the sky is the limit depending on how much Meth you want to squirt in there.
As far as octane goes, if you have low compression and a good intercooler, you can get away with as much as 17-18 psi. If you add Methanol, the sky is the limit depending on how much Meth you want to squirt in there.
drive issues? do you mean drivability? or the way that the supercharger is driven?
12-29-2008, 06:28 PM
#18
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Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Baton Rouge, LA, USA
Posts: 2,743
I fool around with supercharged Sea-Doo ski's. Coincidentally (or not so much?), these little centrifugals also seem to run into all sorts of drive issues (bearing failures, clutch washers breaking, etc) at boost levels over about 12-13 psi. I converted my ski to a turbocharger just like I did my car.
With a centrifugal compressor, it takes 33% more drive power to spin it only 10% faster! It stacks up quick when you're trying to run a lot of boost with a belt.
Mike
12-29-2008, 06:31 PM
#19
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Utah
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12-30-2008, 11:18 AM
#20
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 599
WS6 Pilot nailed it on the head...Ive got the F1A on my 355 and made 653 rwhp. Your wasting money buying the kit from ATI. The only ATI part on my whole setup is the F1A itself. I have a House of Boost blower bracket fitted with a COG drive. Also custom piping going to a 4" thick FMIC. Its running 14 psi now, and when I rebuild to a 383 with 4 bolt splayed block, im shooting for 800 rwhp.
The ATI bracket that comes with the standard P1SC AND D1SC kits are not strong enough to support the F1A because of the extra HP it takes to spin it, which is why guys either go with a SDCE setup or something else. The tensioner isnt strong enough to support a 12 rib F1A setup...
If you go with an F1A, get a different bracket/tensioner, an FMIC on ebay or wheverer, or have REALQUICK fab you a turbo kit...
The ATI bracket that comes with the standard P1SC AND D1SC kits are not strong enough to support the F1A because of the extra HP it takes to spin it, which is why guys either go with a SDCE setup or something else. The tensioner isnt strong enough to support a 12 rib F1A setup...
If you go with an F1A, get a different bracket/tensioner, an FMIC on ebay or wheverer, or have REALQUICK fab you a turbo kit...
Last edited by Kredz28; 12-30-2008 at 11:22 AM.
12-30-2008, 11:59 AM
#22
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Denver
Posts: 856
When I first bought my car there was maybe 20 people on this board with a turbo setup, now it's very feasible.... If these kits where available 5 years ago I would have went turbo... Either way it's lots of work....I bet price is the same if not cheaper to go turbo now!
12-30-2008, 07:20 PM
#25
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Windsor, ON Canada
Posts: 811
I would say turbo for sure, I am in the process of building my T6 turbo setup (74mm garrett) It is alot of work to make it work, but if you have some mechanical skills and a welder and patience it isnt too too bad. But then again I havent started doing headers yet lol.
If you dont mind your car being down for a bit while you acumulate and build the peices needed it will be worth it in the end.
Also a supercharger takes power to make power and is stressful on the motor.
I vote a nice single T76
...My next turbo will be a PT88mm most likely.
Jay
If you dont mind your car being down for a bit while you acumulate and build the peices needed it will be worth it in the end.
Also a supercharger takes power to make power and is stressful on the motor.
I vote a nice single T76
...My next turbo will be a PT88mm most likely.Jay
01-02-2009, 10:35 AM
#29
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: MI
Posts: 1,174
I did a Procharger D1. F1a is same size with a 5.40:1 head ratio. Spins up faster than a D1 (4.44:1 ratio). The ABS module should be eliminated for clearnace with a D or F series blower. I also moved my rad. With a turbo charger or blower, there is very limited space for either. I was easy to move the rad if you have a MIG welder. and, the added room is a +. I run a CM Cam 231/240* .560 lift, and, run a 7.6" pd driven pulley to a 3.4" pd drive pulley to spin the impellar @ 65K @ 6500 rpm. I redesigned my ATI 12-rib belt tensioner to eliminate the tight/ slack side belt tension problem. Now, I have no belt slip problems with less cantelevered load on the crankshaft. Some pics on photobucket.com...
I am considering a turbo charger for an S10 drag car.
http://s306.photobucket.com/albums/nn244/mzgp5x/
I am considering a turbo charger for an S10 drag car.
http://s306.photobucket.com/albums/nn244/mzgp5x/
01-02-2009, 03:12 PM
#30
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Las Vegas Nv.
Posts: 570
instead of an Air/Air setup why not run a Air/Water it takes up less room, very minor cutting of the car, and there are ZERO overheating problems.
When i get home I will post up some pics of the set-up on my car.
There is nothing like 40 degree inlet temps in the middle of august in Las vegas
When i get home I will post up some pics of the set-up on my car.
There is nothing like 40 degree inlet temps in the middle of august in Las vegas
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