Drivetrain Clutch, Torque Converter, Transmission, Driveline, Axles, Rear Ends

What broke in your 4L60E?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 01-24-2006, 09:16 PM
  #31  
Registered User
 
12SCNDZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Newark, Delaware
Posts: 3,634
Re: What broke in your 4L60E?

Originally Posted by rskrause
I sure didn't pull off any reply. What are you guys talking about?

Rich
Rich, The reply that Dana is referring to wasn't even in this thread. It was in another one.

Frank
12SCNDZ is offline  
Old 01-24-2006, 09:50 PM
  #32  
Registered User
 
12SCNDZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Newark, Delaware
Posts: 3,634
Re: What broke in your 4L60E?



broken sun shell. transmission will have no reverse, 2nd or 4th.



cracked forward piston



burnt 3-4 clutches.

Frank
12SCNDZ is offline  
Old 01-25-2006, 06:35 PM
  #33  
Registered User
 
Rock-On's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 37
Re: What broke in your 4L60E?

Frank, In reading your posts I find, you make some pretty interesting points... being a student of these transmission, and humbling myself before you and all the world I come seeking information...You say that Gil hasn't caught on to the fact that you should never reinstall the load release springs..and as a matter of fact he supplies a set of stronger springs....and by installing these springs will ALWAYS burn the 3-4 clutchs.This seems to be a statement of fact. I guess my question is pretty simple...why do the 3-4 clutchs burn when one uses these springs?? Also you say a vacuum modulator will burn up a 60 E....Why? What is it about the vacuum mods. that burn these units up? Any input would be greatly appricated...thanks in advance Frank....Dave
Rock-On is offline  
Old 01-25-2006, 09:43 PM
  #34  
Registered User
 
12SCNDZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Newark, Delaware
Posts: 3,634
Re: What broke in your 4L60E?

Dave,
We've done many tests pertaining to the load release springs in both 700 and 4L60E's. GMs theory was OK...on paper. Let's put a set of springs between the top and bottom pressure plates to keep the 3-4 clutches from centrifically dragging at high RPM's. The problem is, fluid pressure can't overcome those springs enough to allow full clamping force on the 3-4 clutches. This is why many builders still suffer from repeated 3-4 clutch failures. These springs also contribute to the rev limiter being bumped on the 2-3 upshift.
We did our own testing with the springs, as well as followed what ATSG suggested, which was to leave them out. I haven't put a set of springs in ANY 700 or 4L60E that I've built in over 15 years, and I have no 3-4 clutch issues...Not even in race transmissions that are shifted at 6500+ rpm's.
I worked at a shop for 7 years that worked very closely with ATSG, and Sonnax Ind. Many of the products Sonnax sells now were products I helped create. The very first "Super Hold" Sonnax 4th servo prototype was in one of my 4L60E's. The very first Sonnax servo check valve was used in one of my 700's. The owner of the shop is an extremely intelligent man, who I learned alot from. I don't just pull ideas or opinions out of the air. If I have a strong opinion about something, it's because I've tested it.
We've tried vacuum modulators when TG first came out with them. It always led to burnt parts. When you build a transmission with a modulator that burns up after a few 100 miles, and then you build the same transmission identical, but you put an EPC back on it, and it lasts for 5 years, it's pretty obvious where the problem originated. I see too many vacuum modulated transmissions that have burnt up prematurely. You made a good point when referring to the fact that there are many outside things that control the EPC. If it get's wrong signals from those sensors, it will affect the EPC voltage. The correct way to fix this is to fix the problem, not further compound it by installing something that's going to burn the transmission up anyway.
The reality is, if you talk to 10 different transmission builders, you're going to hear 10 different ways to build one. I base my building practices and the parts I use on past experiences and testing. The way I build them currently works and lasts. If something else works for you or Dana, then go with it. I'm sorry...Sometimes I take it too personal when somebody else doesn't share my point of view when it comes to transmissions. I take what I do pretty seriously. That doesn't mean I'm right and you're wrong, or you're right and I'm wrong. It just means we choose to do things a different way. I'm sorry if anything I've said has seemed like a personal attack against you or Dana. I haven't had the opportunity to converse with you much, but you seem like a pretty good guy. I must say the same thing about Dana. I'm not trying to have a "pissing contest". I'm just stating what I've tried, and what works for me.

Frank
12SCNDZ is offline  
Old 01-27-2006, 07:29 AM
  #35  
Registered User
 
viper03af's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Belleville, IL
Posts: 455
Re: What broke in your 4L60E?

Originally Posted by Blownbird355
I have had some pretty decent luck with a local builder. But they dont like to stray from stock rebuilds to much and I'm gettin to the level where I need to start doing some hard parts. Trannies seem to be left more to the pro then engine rebuilds do. I would like to start doing my own rebuilds is th GM 4l60e service manual a good buy. (will i be getting over my head) Also there is no transbrake option for 4l60e is it the electronics?
Rossler is the only one i know with a trans break for the 4l60E, he has them for the 4l80E and the new 6l60e hes working on those already!!

rosller did my tranny

it's a V6 tranny but they are almost the same 4 months and its good so far

i would have gone with Frank but i don't think he ever found a v6 tranny for me, LOL
viper03af is offline  
Old 01-31-2006, 10:21 AM
  #36  
Registered User
 
mike 96 ws6's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Ocala FL
Posts: 268
Re: What broke in your 4L60E?

Originally Posted by rskrause
This would be a big help when shopping for a rebuild or if someone attempts to DIY.
Great idea. Thanks
I have only built a few non 'E' tranny's {old school - TH350-400-700r4, C4-6, 904-727 ect.} until last year when I built the 60e in my TA. This tranny is,
IMO, in need of some attention in certain areas, which have been covered well in this thread, and has a poor chance of holding up for long in a high HP / TQ application without it. I agree with a lot of what has been posted so far and, as a newby to building 'E' units, am all ears. But I tried a few things with my 60e and am throwing them out here is a way for me and whoever else to learn.
BTW: And I haven't seen this failure posted yet, although I may have missed it, but the reason for me building my 60e was failure of the overun clutch function, {and have seen the symptoms of this posted several times} which was found to be a blown seal on the overun clutch apply piston which I photographed shown in the 4th picture of this photo album

Originally Posted by 12SCNDZ
In stock form, the 3-4 clutches are very prone to failure. This is due to several contributing factors. First being the "load release" springs GM installs in the clutch pack itself. They were intended to push the top and bottom pressure plates apart to prevent the clutches from dragging at high RPM's. Yea, it looks good on paper...but...if you reinstall them, you'll burn up the 3-4's repeatedly
I was looking at the dynamics of those load release springs when building mine and decided to keep them in place to reduce the tendancy for high RPM clutch drag but I modified the length of the springs and ground down the spring retainers to match the clearance difference created by installing a 9 disc stack-up for the 3-4 pack. It has worked fine {for ~25k miles now} for several 6200 RPM shifts but then leaving them completely out would also probably have worked fine. I was mainly concerned with part throttle 2-3 overlap and 3-2 downshift binding since this car was a DD.

A common build problem among many is to try jamming as many clutches in the 3-4's as you can. Some get 9 in them. Think about this for a minute...What happens to thin metal when you heat it up? IT WARPS! To get 9 clutches in the 3-4's, you have to use .063" steels. When those .063" steels see a little heat, they turn into a wave. They then take away all the clearance in the clutch pack...it drags...and burns up.
I very much agree. The steels in my 9 disc rebuild set were very thin and I imagine any slippage of the frictions on them would quickly warp them like Star Trek. I arranged the VB timing so the shifts were quick and the 3-4 pack survived so far, but I would imagine a build with very much accumulation time between shifts, or enough torque to overcome the hold of the initial engagement of that apply piston and those thin steels would be warped / toasted in a split second. I believe sufficient apply pressure with less steels / frictions would be a much more durable configuration in that area. Good call there Frank!


Originally Posted by Pro Built Automatics
the 3rd gear feed hole in the valve body plate is way too small to keep the 3-4 clutch pack alive with anything above about 450-475 horsepower.
Drilled to .095". and I believe 'initial' fluid 'volume' or 'lack of' would be the culprit there, correct?

HD sunshell from GM or the aftermarket Beast sunshell will be needed
My 60e had the HD sunshell from the factory which I didn't know till I took it apart.I had purchased a SPX Filtran {Beast} sunshell but it was identical to the GM part. I bought it before the rebuild after seeing the sunshell in 700r4's as being a weak link in those units, which they certainly were, but GM obviously recognized that weak link before 96.

By using a billet servo, we not only give you a better 2nd apply, we also remove the 3rd accumulator. This allows the 3-4 clutches to come on quicker, which reduces the chance of any slippage before full apply. All of our "Race", and "Pro Race" builds get a billet servo for 2nd gear
I have had good results from the vette unit with the parts from the Transgo Series L shift correction kit using the spring arrangement shown here except I left that stupid coil spring spacer out 2nd go round and I used a TH400 coasting band spring in place of the stock 2nd apply return spring {difference shown here }
although that's with a sub 400 FWHP motor. But I would add a caution about anyone throwing a billet servo in a 60e with stock 2-4 band. There is a chance of damage to the stock band due to excessive apply pressure of the billet servo, especially if used with boost valve or increased hydraulic apply pressure via programming. This is a good example of how some of the upgrade parts need to be matched.

The bushings in the pump stators have a habit of wearing. This allows contact between the input shaft and the stator, which wear out the teflon rings on the input shaft, which will cause serious crossleaks.
True, as , from what I saw with my <60k mile unit, is a high wear location. I installed wider bushings {that are available} in that spot and also in the sun gear which looks to be an even greater wear area.

The valve body in later PWM units had a habit of wearing out the TCC Control valve bore. This causes a code 1870. Sonnax Ind. offers a kit that fixes this. We ream the valve body and install a new valve and sleeve.
The Transgo series L kit {previously mentioned} has a correction valve assembly for this PWM TCC lock up circuit. The valve fits in the original bore but uses alternative seating locations in order to eliminate the fluid bypass. No need for the reamer and the related expense if you don't build 60e's often., IMHO. Reamer tool = {#T-77754-R2 Reamer tool required For Use With S74741QK & S74741QAK Sonnax # 77754-R2 $140.60}.

The very first Sonnax servo check valve was used in one of my 700's.
I used Sonnax 77701-076
Thanks

If you ever had the opportunity to read any of old Gils instructions, you'd fully understand that he's somewhere out in left field.
I sure agree with this statement, although I have enoigh experience to see what from Gil I want to follow and what I'll feel better doing my way.


Originally Posted by 12SCNDZ
The reality is, if you talk to 10 different transmission builders, you're going to hear 10 different ways to build one. I base my building practices and the parts I use on past experiences and testing. The way I build them currently works and lasts. If something else works for you or Dana, then go with it. I'm sorry...Sometimes I take it too personal when somebody else doesn't share my point of view when it comes to transmissions. I take what I do pretty seriously. That doesn't mean I'm right and you're wrong, or you're right and I'm wrong. It just means we choose to do things a different way.
Very true. And although I have some ways of building non-electrinic units that I believe in with older tranny's, I am new to the E versions and value the knowledge I have as a result of searching post on this board by you an Dana and some others. Thanks to you all!!!
mike 96 ws6 is offline  
Old 01-31-2006, 10:22 AM
  #37  
Registered User
 
mike 96 ws6's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Ocala FL
Posts: 268
Re: What broke in your 4L60E?

Oh, and sorry about the length on that post!
mike 96 ws6 is offline  
Old 01-31-2006, 10:57 AM
  #38  
Moderator
Thread Starter
 
rskrause's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 1969
Location: Buffalo, New York
Posts: 10,745
Re: What broke in your 4L60E?

Originally Posted by mike 96 ws6
Oh, and sorry about the length on that post!
It was a good post!

Rich
rskrause is offline  
Old 01-31-2006, 11:29 AM
  #39  
Registered User
 
SloLt1Z's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 176
Re: What broke in your 4L60E?

My first two where 3-4 clutch packs, then I had broke a sun sunshell and output shaft I think that was all I'm looking for my receipts to be 100%
SloLt1Z is offline  
Old 01-31-2006, 05:29 PM
  #40  
Registered User
 
12SCNDZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Newark, Delaware
Posts: 3,634
Re: What broke in your 4L60E?

Originally Posted by mike 96 ws6
My 60e had the HD sunshell from the factory which I didn't know till I took it apart.I had purchased a SPX Filtran {Beast} sunshell but it was identical to the GM part. I bought it before the rebuild after seeing the sunshell in 700r4's as being a weak link in those units, which they certainly were, but GM obviously recognized that weak link before 96.


:

GM has never used a HD shell from the factory. They've changed the stamp number and design slightly over the years, but they've never installed anything as strong as "The Beast". Did your shell still use the 4 tab plastic washer that sits on top of the low/reverse inner sprag race?...Or did it use a plastic washer with 4 round lugs that goes on the back of the sun shell?

Frank
12SCNDZ is offline  
Old 02-02-2006, 02:17 AM
  #41  
Registered User
 
mike 96 ws6's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Ocala FL
Posts: 268
Re: What broke in your 4L60E?

Originally Posted by 12SCNDZ
Did your shell still use the 4 tab plastic washer that sits on top of the low/reverse inner sprag race?...Or did it use a plastic washer with 4 round lugs that goes on the back of the sun shell?

Frank
Sorry about the delay in my response to your question but I spent over an hour 2 separate times {last night and Tuesday night} typing a reply with details and links only to have my ISP screw up my attempt to post it and to return to that post data via refresh {F5}. So now I'm over my pissed-off rant and I'll try this again in a short form...
{1} I built the 60e transmission in my 96 ws6 months ago and to be honest, don't remember if the round tab design was used or not.
The Beast, Sun gear Shell I purchased from Makco Distributing, Inc, which was, {according to the attached paperwork}, a SPX Filtran part #42298B / US Patent No - 6,561,944}{no advertisement or recomendation intended} had round holes for locating the thrust washer tabs in addition to the square holes that are used on the stock GM sunshell {like on a broken 700r4 shell {more 700 shell detail shown later}which I have beside my chair at this moment} and instructions with the SPX Filtran unit were included {which I have searched for extensively with no result} to the effect of ""this design thrust washer must be used with this application"".
I don't recall if my 96 60E GM shell had those round tab anchor holes like the SFX Filtran unit, which is in my lap at this moment, but the GM shell must have had the holes to anchor the thrust washer included with SPX part since I later used the thrust washer provided with the SPX 'Beast" part when I re-installed that original GM shell during the last assembly of my unit. {I pulled it back out twice to {1st time} check / correct 3-4 clutch pack clearance and {2nd time} install 13 vane rotor, Alto red 2 5/8" wide 2-4 band, and 7 friction Raybestos Z-pack stack-up to replace that crappy *** 9 friction TCI / Alto arrangement.} {you know why - APM}.
But if I remember correctly, the GM shell was identical to the SPX Filtran 'beast' part visually as far as structural dementions including 4 extra round holes, and both 60e and Filtran Beast designs were much improved over the 700r4 shell I pulled out of my last 700 build which had the splined collar strpped free from the shell housing, and I managed to find a photo I took of that shell seen here.


Oh, and since I have your expert attention for now, another question if you have time:
Have you run across many broken aux. valve body cover plates on 700 / 4l60's?
This is the second one I've seen like this shown here..
Thanks for your help Frank,
and please continue to post your knowledge for those of us that are much less experienced. It has been very helpful to me and help with tranny solutions has been hard to find in some professional builders that are evidently of the opinion that since they have some knowledge of the 'VOO DOO' of automatic tranny repair, it must be kept "top secret". That is a selfish attitude IMO and although I have little knowledge in some areas, I try to extend what I do know to anyone that I can help. I guess it has to do with my belief in the phrase "what goes around, comes around".
I wish good things for you.
Again, Thanks!!!

Last edited by mike 96 ws6; 02-02-2006 at 02:38 AM.
mike 96 ws6 is offline  
Old 02-02-2006, 11:50 AM
  #42  
Registered User
 
12SCNDZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Newark, Delaware
Posts: 3,634
Re: What broke in your 4L60E?

Originally Posted by mike 96 ws6
Have you run across many broken aux. valve body cover plates on 700 / 4l60's?
This is the second one I've seen like this shown here..

I've never seen an auxillary cover broken like that. Did they come out of the transmission like that? Was the spring in the input accumulator the stock spring?

Frank
12SCNDZ is offline  
Old 02-02-2006, 12:12 PM
  #43  
Registered User
 
magicvega's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: philly pa
Posts: 168
Re: What broke in your 4L60E?

I broke the piston and burnt the clutch packs in mine.
magicvega is offline  
Old 02-02-2006, 08:40 PM
  #44  
Registered User
 
mike 96 ws6's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Ocala FL
Posts: 268
Re: What broke in your 4L60E?

Originally Posted by 12SCNDZ
I've never seen an auxillary cover broken like that. Did they come out of the transmission like that? Was the spring in the input accumulator the stock spring?

Frank
I don't remember what accumulator spring was used on the first one of these I saw but the one in the picture came out of a tranny that I was told was mostly track only, no accumulator spring was used behind the input accumulator piston and there was also no spring used in one of either the case with the 3-4 piston or cover with the 1-2 piston but I don't remember which {likely the 1-2}.
And it had been beat on with slicks at the track {3rd gen Camaro I think}. This is the same unit that the broken sunshell I limked was in.
mike 96 ws6 is offline  
Old 02-09-2006, 11:37 AM
  #45  
Registered User
 
Rodney Z28's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 5
Re: What broke in your 4L60E?

great informative post!
Rodney Z28 is offline  


Quick Reply: What broke in your 4L60E?



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:04 PM.