Working on the Opti solution.
There is an interesting setup being made right now that i am finding some info that uses the edis system and the northstar coil packs wonder if that would work nicely for our cars better.
Steven
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383 Inches of stroked turbocharged fun.
If one is good shouldnt 2 be great?????


TURBO=TORQUE
TORQUE=FUN
Ask me about Burhead Headers If you are gonna use them
My Car
Steven
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383 Inches of stroked turbocharged fun.
If one is good shouldnt 2 be great?????



TURBO=TORQUE
TORQUE=FUN
Ask me about Burhead Headers If you are gonna use them
My Car
Hello all,
I figured this info would pertain to this topic. This person converted a LT1 intake to work with a TPI motor. Here is a link to the page, with the information about drilling the rear distributor hole in an LT1 intake. This might help those thinking of installing a distributor in their LT1 ignition system.
http://www.lt1intake.com/distributor.htm
Courtney
I figured this info would pertain to this topic. This person converted a LT1 intake to work with a TPI motor. Here is a link to the page, with the information about drilling the rear distributor hole in an LT1 intake. This might help those thinking of installing a distributor in their LT1 ignition system.
http://www.lt1intake.com/distributor.htm
Courtney
throughout this discussion, nobody has chimed in giving detailed information on the specifics to opti operation.. I know many of you know of or have distributor less systems but unless you can give information pertaining to how they function your chit chat is useless to this thread. know exactly how the opti functions..I know about the high res and low res optical pickups but that doesn't explain to me how at the moment you turn your key and begin turning over the motor how the ecm knows the crank position and timing. it would be my guess is that there might be an even and odd number between the different resolution pickups that it somehow differentiates and instantly knows the cranks position. Well.. if we knew this amount of information I would think it would be conceivable to make some inline plugs that tap the optical portion and have a separate controller for the coil-paks..and just use the factory coil output as a reference for timing changes.
crank position and timing doesn't matter since we have something better, camshaft position sensor.
The low rez line is called reference for a reason, the slot are different in size and allow for determining where in the 4stroke cycle we are. The high rez slots basically give additive information and a more discrete position.
If you put a logic analyzer on the optical section while running, the data coming out makes perfect sense. It is fairly trivial to determine which coil pack to fire from it.
It would be even easier to use the rotor to decide which to fire, just use lower voltage (bypass the coil but buffer the PCM output) to minimize ozone output and use the sparkplug outputs to act as the trigger for the coilpacks. You really don't have to use an outboard computer if you think about it
-CAL
The low rez line is called reference for a reason, the slot are different in size and allow for determining where in the 4stroke cycle we are. The high rez slots basically give additive information and a more discrete position.
If you put a logic analyzer on the optical section while running, the data coming out makes perfect sense. It is fairly trivial to determine which coil pack to fire from it.
It would be even easier to use the rotor to decide which to fire, just use lower voltage (bypass the coil but buffer the PCM output) to minimize ozone output and use the sparkplug outputs to act as the trigger for the coilpacks. You really don't have to use an outboard computer if you think about it

-CAL
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">I know many of you know of or have distributor less systems but unless you can give information pertaining to how they function your chit chat is useless to this thread. </font>
"chit chat"........

I guess the rest of us just assumed everyone else was familiar with the cylinder-to-cylinder slot pattern of the low res pulse..... If you wanted to know, there are more polite ways of asking, IMHO.
I've been follow this post with my limited knowledge of the system. But after seeing the LT1 manifold drilled for a distributor I have few questions.
1st) I assume the EGR was air tube connection was blocked off, or did they still fit?
2nd) I have the tech II w/O the opti eliminator. but I see electromotive sells a distributor/wheel sensor that is a replacement for a standard rear mounted dist.
So Would it be possible? without a cap and rotor there should be room back there?
Could eliminate the opti completely from the front of the motor using the crank position wheel and rear distributor sensor?
1st) I assume the EGR was air tube connection was blocked off, or did they still fit?
2nd) I have the tech II w/O the opti eliminator. but I see electromotive sells a distributor/wheel sensor that is a replacement for a standard rear mounted dist.
So Would it be possible? without a cap and rotor there should be room back there?
Could eliminate the opti completely from the front of the motor using the crank position wheel and rear distributor sensor?
Anyone else have an Opti that failed like this?
http://members.***.net/gmarengo/DCP_0842.JPG
That's how the cap looked when I took it off, with the metal rotor part embedded in the plastic ring. Amazingly, my car still ran -- horribly, but still enough to *maybe* beat a stock Honda Civic
Addition: Thanks for the offer, but Sam Smith had one in much better shape, although it did cost me $190
[This message has been edited by nuke61 (edited July 21, 2002).]
http://members.***.net/gmarengo/DCP_0842.JPG
That's how the cap looked when I took it off, with the metal rotor part embedded in the plastic ring. Amazingly, my car still ran -- horribly, but still enough to *maybe* beat a stock Honda Civic

Addition: Thanks for the offer, but Sam Smith had one in much better shape, although it did cost me $190

[This message has been edited by nuke61 (edited July 21, 2002).]
Nuke,
I dont know what went bad in mine, but the one that just cam off of my car sounds like there are 100 pieces rattling around inside.
You can have it if ya like
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Ken Mook - 97' SS #2544
Advanced Tech Posting Guidelines
I dont know what went bad in mine, but the one that just cam off of my car sounds like there are 100 pieces rattling around inside.
You can have it if ya like

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Ken Mook - 97' SS #2544
Advanced Tech Posting Guidelines
- ?rwhp & ?rwtq Naturally Aspirated on the Stock Bottom End.
- Stage 3 Pro Performance Heads, Solid Roller 242/248 Cam, Endur-X Lifters,
- Jet Hot Hooker LTs, True Dual 3" Exhaust with x-pipe, and the list goes on and on...
if you guys want an LS1 ignition then is there a way to integrate the ENTIRE thing into an LT1. im talking about the coils(of course) but along with them, the wiring harness and PCM. wouldnt the LT1 and LS1 meter all engine perameters the same? i dont have any idea how the LS1 igntion timing works so any obvious reasoning is due to my ignorance of the system.
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Brad
1997 Z28 M6
T-tops, chrome rims, all options, SLP Dual/Dual, cutout, !CAGS, FIPK, LT4 KM, Air Foil, TB bypass, pro 5.0, OBD1, !EGR, !AIR, CSI waterpump, 160* thermostat, 1LE intake elbow, PCM tuning by, www.PCMFORLESS.com , taylors, singe-cat SLP shorties minus the cat!
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Brad
1997 Z28 M6
T-tops, chrome rims, all options, SLP Dual/Dual, cutout, !CAGS, FIPK, LT4 KM, Air Foil, TB bypass, pro 5.0, OBD1, !EGR, !AIR, CSI waterpump, 160* thermostat, 1LE intake elbow, PCM tuning by, www.PCMFORLESS.com , taylors, singe-cat SLP shorties minus the cat!
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by jimlab:
Unfortunately the LS1 and LT1 don't share firing order... it'd be interesting, though, to have a crank and camshaft cut for the LT1 that *did* revise the firing order to match the LS1's...
</font>
Unfortunately the LS1 and LT1 don't share firing order... it'd be interesting, though, to have a crank and camshaft cut for the LT1 that *did* revise the firing order to match the LS1's...
</font>
Guest
Posts: n/a
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by jimlab:
Unfortunately the LS1 and LT1 don't share firing order... it'd be interesting, though, to have a crank and camshaft cut for the LT1 that *did* revise the firing order to match the LS1's...
</font>
Unfortunately the LS1 and LT1 don't share firing order... it'd be interesting, though, to have a crank and camshaft cut for the LT1 that *did* revise the firing order to match the LS1's...
</font>
But getting the PCM to control other parameters of the engine would still probably be a big chore.
We have a car with the FAST piggybacked to the stock PCM. The 41 wires were spliced and the car ran fine. Well, the opti started to crap out, so we got LS1 coils, a crank trigger and cam sync from MSD and the eDist box from FAST. The directions suck as does the support from the vendor and FAST themselves.
We need some schematics/ideas of what to do. Do we keep the Opti and use either the crank or cam sensor?
I thought maybe the ignition module could tell the eDist when to fire, and all we need is to know when #1 is firing? Any direct help/email is much appreciated.
Thanks,
Christian Dionne
CDionne@cfl.rr.com
We need some schematics/ideas of what to do. Do we keep the Opti and use either the crank or cam sensor?
I thought maybe the ignition module could tell the eDist when to fire, and all we need is to know when #1 is firing? Any direct help/email is much appreciated.
Thanks,
Christian Dionne
CDionne@cfl.rr.com
Ok I works Fine has been field tested and,Is in production and should be availible in 2 too 3 weeks .Linginfelter wants some, So judge for yourself.I am waiting for a phone call right now .May be able too set up a group purchase
.I should have the Component list and Price within a couple days.
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lil Japanese car BIG American motor
www.speakeasy.net/~lt1240z
.I should have the Component list and Price within a couple days.------------------
lil Japanese car BIG American motor
www.speakeasy.net/~lt1240z


