Working on the Opti solution.
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Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 1,620
From: Dover DE
Not sure who was/is following what thread,but appears Bob made great progress with the LTCC.
http://www.geocities.com/reilym/LTCC/
http://www.geocities.com/reilym/LTCC/
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Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,462
From: smog zone adjacent to a great lake
Do a search Grip. A couple of lengthy threads available that should answer your ?s. This was conducted in both 'advanced' and 'tech'. Not sure how you missed it. BTW, this thread is one of them.
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Joined: Dec 1998
Posts: 341
Sorry to hear about your troubles. Sounds like your the guinea pig for a whole new ignition setup. Hopefully, who ever the company is, will get their act together and you'll have a killer ignition system.
Funny, I thought this new type of setup was already up and running by the guys at New England Dyno last year?
Funny, I thought this new type of setup was already up and running by the guys at New England Dyno last year?
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Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 1,248
From: Bountiful, Utah
Originally posted by kmook
The only places i've seen the coils mounted is on top of the valve covers...
Is there another good place to mount them? I would prefer somewhere elses...
The only places i've seen the coils mounted is on top of the valve covers...
Is there another good place to mount them? I would prefer somewhere elses...
The harness on Bobs LTCC is long enough to mount coils under cowl overhang on each side of the intake also.
No pics yet, Jeff
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Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 1,104
From: Seacoast, N.H.
Jim,
I hear you on getting porked for the coil pack ignition system. New England Dyno and Tuning was working with a shop as they split up the work (NEDT did all the wiring and the other shop that will remain nameless but sucks...hope I'm not giving it away) did the cam sync / crank trigger part. The work that New England Dyno and Tuning did was first rate but the other shop sucks !!
www.geocities.com/marcs94z28/383coilpacks.html
www.geocities.com/marcs94z28/cranktrigger.html
It took about 3 months to get this all done and then the car would only run on 5 cylinders. Well the nameless shop dicked around with it for a month before I towed it outa there and had to start over at another shop who was able to figure it out and get it running but there still are some issues and this is not the greates way to go.
On my particular setup the magnet was in the wrong spot so when the magnet came around to the sensor it was not producing enough voltage and there was interferance from lettering on the face of the cam sproket which was causing 2,8 and 1 cylinders to not fire so it would re-index itself and on and on it would go.
The "********" did manage to get a couple of other motors to run on the engine dyno but mine is the only one to actually run in a car. Here is a pic of a buddy of mine who mounted his coil packs in a custom bracket he made up on the back of the intake (it's towards the bottom of the page on the right)http://www.96z28ss.cz28.com/photo.html
I did hear that Cloyes drops the slugs in at random so the spot where the cam sensor magnet needs to go may not be there as they went throug 5 or 6 sets of Cloyes timing gears to get one to work on a different guys F-body that I know of.
I would not recommend doing this at this time and I regret getting myself into this mess.
Marc
I hear you on getting porked for the coil pack ignition system. New England Dyno and Tuning was working with a shop as they split up the work (NEDT did all the wiring and the other shop that will remain nameless but sucks...hope I'm not giving it away) did the cam sync / crank trigger part. The work that New England Dyno and Tuning did was first rate but the other shop sucks !!
www.geocities.com/marcs94z28/383coilpacks.html
www.geocities.com/marcs94z28/cranktrigger.html
It took about 3 months to get this all done and then the car would only run on 5 cylinders. Well the nameless shop dicked around with it for a month before I towed it outa there and had to start over at another shop who was able to figure it out and get it running but there still are some issues and this is not the greates way to go.
On my particular setup the magnet was in the wrong spot so when the magnet came around to the sensor it was not producing enough voltage and there was interferance from lettering on the face of the cam sproket which was causing 2,8 and 1 cylinders to not fire so it would re-index itself and on and on it would go.
The "********" did manage to get a couple of other motors to run on the engine dyno but mine is the only one to actually run in a car. Here is a pic of a buddy of mine who mounted his coil packs in a custom bracket he made up on the back of the intake (it's towards the bottom of the page on the right)http://www.96z28ss.cz28.com/photo.html
I did hear that Cloyes drops the slugs in at random so the spot where the cam sensor magnet needs to go may not be there as they went throug 5 or 6 sets of Cloyes timing gears to get one to work on a different guys F-body that I know of.
I would not recommend doing this at this time and I regret getting myself into this mess.
Marc
Last edited by 1st and goal; Feb 17, 2003 at 12:08 PM.
Registered User
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 393
From: NASHVILLE, TN
After blowing up my 4th opti with a blower and MSD box I was desperate to try anything. I've installed the LTCC "Turbo-Bob" setup and it works great. The wiring is pretty much plug and play and the only difficult thing is mounting the coils. It might take a little fabracation to mount the coils but, that is it. The car has never run better.
Registered User
Joined: Jan 1999
Posts: 197
From: Mass
Originally posted by jimlab
Speaking of Opti solutions...
they managed to screw up the sensor location on the first try, and now I have one hole welded closed and another for the sensor, just like the picture that was shown in another thread... coincidence? I don't think so.
http://www.nedyno.com/images/contestpic4.jpg
I also have a Cloyes billet timing set that was basically ruined in the process (first attempt), and now they're working on another timing set, apparently, because the Cloyes billet sprocket had holes in the wrong locations. Too bad they didn't figure that out before they modified it and made the first hole in the front cover.
I won't list the vendor names involved, but there aren't that many people in the industry doing this type of conversion, so fair warning if you choose this option. I have heard that there are three others who have been waiting for months to get their modified covers and sprockets back also.
Speaking of Opti solutions...
they managed to screw up the sensor location on the first try, and now I have one hole welded closed and another for the sensor, just like the picture that was shown in another thread... coincidence? I don't think so.
http://www.nedyno.com/images/contestpic4.jpg
I also have a Cloyes billet timing set that was basically ruined in the process (first attempt), and now they're working on another timing set, apparently, because the Cloyes billet sprocket had holes in the wrong locations. Too bad they didn't figure that out before they modified it and made the first hole in the front cover.
I won't list the vendor names involved, but there aren't that many people in the industry doing this type of conversion, so fair warning if you choose this option. I have heard that there are three others who have been waiting for months to get their modified covers and sprockets back also.
I have no idea what shop you are talking about that screwed up your parts but using our link was off base. Our shop also received a timing cover and billet sprocket from Mark, The billet sprocket we received was not usable and was never modified unlike the other shop who ruined yours. Also the timing cover that was sent to us was modified and the cam sync hole was correctly placed "First Time" The picture you referred to was our prototype cover and we tried a few cam sync placements during testing.
Waiting for months??? What makes you think that is what was holding up their motor? Damn..... Get your facts straight! By the way the Coil System is working like a charm on all 3 motors!
Since you have never corresponded with us ONCE but felt the need to insinuate lies about us I have no desire to help you out. If the parts I received from Mark are yours email me and I will return the billet cam gear sent to our shop, and I will credit you for a timing cover since the one sent us was welded up, perfectly I might add, and we will use it on our next conversion.
Dean
www.nedyno.com
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,515
From: Kansas
for those of you using the cam sync and crank trigger.... why both?
if you have the cam position sensor then i dont understand what is the need for a crank trigger
i am also under the impression the MSD magnetic crank and trigger produces a low and high resolution pulse... perfect for the stock PCM. the problem is that the crank rotates 1 time for ever 2 revolutions of the cam and its the cam position that the PCM needs to time the injectors and spark so the MSD system wont work with the stock PCM. now in theory if you just had twice as many magnets on the crank then wouldnt that take care of the timing issue? or would the tightly placed magnets cause some interference?
i know you can buy the LTCC black box now but i still like the idea of a complete opti delete.
if you have the cam position sensor then i dont understand what is the need for a crank trigger
i am also under the impression the MSD magnetic crank and trigger produces a low and high resolution pulse... perfect for the stock PCM. the problem is that the crank rotates 1 time for ever 2 revolutions of the cam and its the cam position that the PCM needs to time the injectors and spark so the MSD system wont work with the stock PCM. now in theory if you just had twice as many magnets on the crank then wouldnt that take care of the timing issue? or would the tightly placed magnets cause some interference?
i know you can buy the LTCC black box now but i still like the idea of a complete opti delete.
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Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 1,248
From: Bountiful, Utah
I was talking with Bob the other day when he was here at the shop and yes your right. You could run "opti-less" with MSD stuff. 7a box but the two refferances are needed. 1 pulse for the top of the firing order and the 4 pulse to fire each cylinder. It will work.
Maybee Bob will chime in.
You need to keep the timing events in "sinc" with the baily box features.
Jeff Taylor
Maybee Bob will chime in.
You need to keep the timing events in "sinc" with the baily box features.
Jeff Taylor
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,082
From: San Juan PR
Originally posted by Rob94hawk
This has been one of the most talked about mods in this section so I'll post some links and pics from what I think is the best way to rid of the opti. It's a little pricey though.
Here's the pics if using a crank trigger and a cam sensor: http://www.nedyno.com/contest.htm
Here's the thread:
http://web.camaross.com/bb/Forum30/HTML/000602.html
This has been one of the most talked about mods in this section so I'll post some links and pics from what I think is the best way to rid of the opti. It's a little pricey though.
Here's the pics if using a crank trigger and a cam sensor: http://www.nedyno.com/contest.htm
Here's the thread:
http://web.camaross.com/bb/Forum30/HTML/000602.html
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 252
From: wilmington, NC USA
also very curious to see more on this and how everything has unfolded and if there has been a tried and true method of completely eliminating the opti spark and using something that works as precisely as the opti spark does when everything is working correctly. I have 4 optispark drive vettes and it seems like i am replacing optisparks about every couple of months between all of them.. I'm completely sick of it.
also is it feesible to mount them in the rear and drive them with a distributor type shaft off the back of the camshaft like conventional distributor are driven? hell if nothing else at least this would make the changes much simpler for the opti or for wires. And also a way to disperse the load on the opti drive input could be devised to help fight bearing wear. just some thoughts. I have read that the shaft in the back would creat slop..... understandable..but how much and how bad would the timing be effected?
also rear mounting the optispark would eliminate any EMI from meziere waterpump setups.. sounds like a better way to skin a cat?
any takers?
Chris
also is it feesible to mount them in the rear and drive them with a distributor type shaft off the back of the camshaft like conventional distributor are driven? hell if nothing else at least this would make the changes much simpler for the opti or for wires. And also a way to disperse the load on the opti drive input could be devised to help fight bearing wear. just some thoughts. I have read that the shaft in the back would creat slop..... understandable..but how much and how bad would the timing be effected?
also rear mounting the optispark would eliminate any EMI from meziere waterpump setups.. sounds like a better way to skin a cat?
any takers?
Chris
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 252
From: wilmington, NC USA
I shot an email to delteq tonight asking what the replacement for the opti unit is for their stage 2 setup.. told them i would buy 4 of them if they could show me how they completely eliminated the optispark and were using something that looked very durable.. does anyone have any pictures of the complete stage 2 setup? from what i have gathered from previous posts, they have not yet completed the device they were advertising for sale... is this still true or have they released it? any help appreciated!
Chris
Chris