Question for all running the LTCC
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,475
Originally posted by TurboBob
Hmm,
Ok, code 41 should not happen. If you had the coil still on the car when you hooked the box up to the white/black wire you could have hurt the ltcc box. (that wire has some big spikes on it)
The ECM does not default to limp mode for every problem. It varies by DTC. Some of the default actions make no sense. (like open loop + fans for a knock sensor fault...)
I'd be happy to check/fix the LTCC if you send it to me. I emailed the address to you last week.
Bob
Hmm,
Ok, code 41 should not happen. If you had the coil still on the car when you hooked the box up to the white/black wire you could have hurt the ltcc box. (that wire has some big spikes on it)
The ECM does not default to limp mode for every problem. It varies by DTC. Some of the default actions make no sense. (like open loop + fans for a knock sensor fault...)
I'd be happy to check/fix the LTCC if you send it to me. I emailed the address to you last week.
Bob
like i said ive done PLENTY of wiring and played with MANY diagrams but your instructions werent very direct about saying where EXACTLY the white wire needed to be hooked to! like i said thats why i put it to the output of the module instead of the input 
i didnt have the coil on the car but the stock module was hooked up...
Last edited by InjectedSS; Jul 28, 2003 at 03:41 AM.
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 65
From: Detroit, MI
is your battery in the trunk?
Your unit is running here, I will test it on a car tomorrow. I will probably send you a different unit just in case there is something really wierd happening. But at the moment I can find nothing wrong with your unit. The EST input (white wire) is fine, and should cause no codes.
Bob
Your unit is running here, I will test it on a car tomorrow. I will probably send you a different unit just in case there is something really wierd happening. But at the moment I can find nothing wrong with your unit. The EST input (white wire) is fine, and should cause no codes.
Bob
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,475
Originally posted by TurboBob
is your battery in the trunk?
Your unit is running here, I will test it on a car tomorrow. I will probably send you a different unit just in case there is something really wierd happening. But at the moment I can find nothing wrong with your unit. The EST input (white wire) is fine, and should cause no codes.
Bob
is your battery in the trunk?
Your unit is running here, I will test it on a car tomorrow. I will probably send you a different unit just in case there is something really wierd happening. But at the moment I can find nothing wrong with your unit. The EST input (white wire) is fine, and should cause no codes.
Bob
i have ALL upgraded power cables to and from the battery, to the alternator & even the ones to the starter are ALL bigger and brand new
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,475
Originally posted by Brady_96Z
Is my LTCC on it's way home?
Is my LTCC on it's way home?
i definately know it was too long in the first place and thats what made me blow the first TWO optis this month but i cut it down some on this last opti that just blew but i still think it is touching just A TINY LIL BIT! so im gonna cut that bish down some more and see how it goes!i think you kinda went around the problem of your cam dowel being too long since you cut your rotor off and now even though your dowel is still prolly pusing against your opti theres no rotor to touch the cap and break into pieces like you and i have been doing!...... lemme know what u come up with cause i would like to get to the bottom of this crap
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 1999
Posts: 839
From: Minnesota
I replaced my MSD wires with some taylor 8mm wires. Went out last night and made a few passes and pulled no codes on the LTCC! (Good call bob)I finally can start leaning into this car assuming all stays the same. Im going to go out tonight and get my first real race, buddies hyabusa. I have raced 10 second cars but that is starting to get slow
Last edited by sleeperz28; Jul 30, 2003 at 12:05 PM.
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,475
Originally posted by sleeperz28
I replaced my MSD wires with some taylor 8mm wires. Went out last night and made a few passes and pulled no codes on the LTCC! (Good call bob)I finally can start leaning into this car assuming all stays the same. Im going to go out tonight and get my first real race, buddies hyabusa. I have raced 10 second cars but that is starting to get slow
I replaced my MSD wires with some taylor 8mm wires. Went out last night and made a few passes and pulled no codes on the LTCC! (Good call bob)I finally can start leaning into this car assuming all stays the same. Im going to go out tonight and get my first real race, buddies hyabusa. I have raced 10 second cars but that is starting to get slow
r u serious that actually worked?? how the hell could msd wires make that big of a difference? were you pulling codes JUST in the LTCC box or were you getting an SES light as well?
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Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 2,784
From: Rochester Hills, MI
What kind of problems are you guys dealing with running MSD wires?? The reason I ask is because I am currently running MSD wires with my LTCC box and have not had any issues. I had my car dynoed a month ago and my car made 705 rwhp. I appreciate the input. 
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Joined: Dec 1969
Posts: 472
From: Mobile, Alabama
I know for a fact that my dowel pin isn't too long. Here's how I know:
I took the cap/rotor off my opti, as well as the stamped steel pieceand the other plastic piece that goes between the low/high voltage sections of the opti. Then I reinstalled the optispark. (No water pump installed and I had a direct view of the optical sensor) I was able to monitor the clearance between the disc and the optical sensor. If the dowel pin was too long, the disc would have been pushed outward as I tightened the 3 bolts that hold the opti in place. That didn't happen, I tightened the bolts and the disc remained exactly centered in the small gap on the optical sensor.
The dowel pin isn't the cause of my optispark failures. GM quality control is the cause of my misery.
I'm patiently awaiting the return of my LTCC, hopefull I can go kick *** at the track friday night..
laterz
...Brady
I took the cap/rotor off my opti, as well as the stamped steel pieceand the other plastic piece that goes between the low/high voltage sections of the opti. Then I reinstalled the optispark. (No water pump installed and I had a direct view of the optical sensor) I was able to monitor the clearance between the disc and the optical sensor. If the dowel pin was too long, the disc would have been pushed outward as I tightened the 3 bolts that hold the opti in place. That didn't happen, I tightened the bolts and the disc remained exactly centered in the small gap on the optical sensor.
The dowel pin isn't the cause of my optispark failures.
GM quality control is the cause of my misery.I'm patiently awaiting the return of my LTCC, hopefull I can go kick *** at the track friday night..
laterz
...Brady
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,475
Originally posted by Brady_96Z
I know for a fact that my dowel pin isn't too long. Here's how I know:
I took the cap/rotor off my opti, as well as the stamped steel pieceand the other plastic piece that goes between the low/high voltage sections of the opti. Then I reinstalled the optispark. (No water pump installed and I had a direct view of the optical sensor) I was able to monitor the clearance between the disc and the optical sensor. If the dowel pin was too long, the disc would have been pushed outward as I tightened the 3 bolts that hold the opti in place. That didn't happen, I tightened the bolts and the disc remained exactly centered in the small gap on the optical sensor.
The dowel pin isn't the cause of my optispark failures. GM quality control is the cause of my misery.
I'm patiently awaiting the return of my LTCC, hopefull I can go kick *** at the track friday night..
laterz
...Brady
I know for a fact that my dowel pin isn't too long. Here's how I know:
I took the cap/rotor off my opti, as well as the stamped steel pieceand the other plastic piece that goes between the low/high voltage sections of the opti. Then I reinstalled the optispark. (No water pump installed and I had a direct view of the optical sensor) I was able to monitor the clearance between the disc and the optical sensor. If the dowel pin was too long, the disc would have been pushed outward as I tightened the 3 bolts that hold the opti in place. That didn't happen, I tightened the bolts and the disc remained exactly centered in the small gap on the optical sensor.
The dowel pin isn't the cause of my optispark failures.
GM quality control is the cause of my misery.I'm patiently awaiting the return of my LTCC, hopefull I can go kick *** at the track friday night..
laterz
...Brady
well i cut my dowel down pretty good again tonight! im gonna give my opti/digital 7 ONE LAST TRY before i tear all this sh*t apart and do the crank triger and cam pickup thing im so sick of this crap! my problem isnt the damaging ozone as most may call it, its the stupid rotor getting outa wack and making contact with things in the cap that it shouldnt in turn causing it to break apart why couldnt we just have a normal distributor even better why couldnt lt1's be DIS 
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 1999
Posts: 839
From: Minnesota
Comp cams is notorious for there dowell pins being too long. My buddy wrecked a new motor because he didnt check this. Are you sure you dont have too much play in the cam?
As for the msd wires, when I pulled all of them apart I had one boot that was a little brown, inside the silicone was torn. Not sure if this was my problem or not because it was still inside the boot(right next to the plug contact) Also the taylors are supose to have better supresion agenst EMI and RFI.
As for the msd wires, when I pulled all of them apart I had one boot that was a little brown, inside the silicone was torn. Not sure if this was my problem or not because it was still inside the boot(right next to the plug contact) Also the taylors are supose to have better supresion agenst EMI and RFI.
Last edited by sleeperz28; Jul 31, 2003 at 02:53 AM.
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,475
Originally posted by sleeperz28
Comp cams is notorious for there dowell pins being too long. My buddy wrecked a new motor because he didnt check this. Are you sure you dont have too much play in the cam?
As for the msd wires, when I pulled all of them apart I had one boot that was a little brown, inside the silicone was torn. Not sure if this was my problem or not because it was still inside the boot(right next to the plug contact) Also the taylors are supose to have better supresion agenst EMI and RFI.
Comp cams is notorious for there dowell pins being too long. My buddy wrecked a new motor because he didnt check this. Are you sure you dont have too much play in the cam?
As for the msd wires, when I pulled all of them apart I had one boot that was a little brown, inside the silicone was torn. Not sure if this was my problem or not because it was still inside the boot(right next to the plug contact) Also the taylors are supose to have better supresion agenst EMI and RFI.
"play in the cam"
huh? how the hell would you check for that
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Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 1,791
From: Upstate New York,USA
Dang... You guys are some heavy hitters! 6 and 7 hundred plus rwhp! Whew... My LTCC is equipped with regular LT1 Taylors and the Opti boot ends are on the coils. No problems reving to 7K. But I don't have the boost or anything. Congrats you guys on having such kick-*** toys.
I have just put on heads and a new CamMotion cam and the LTCC is administering spark flawlessly. This is all interesting reading though. How do you get codes off the LTCC box?
I have just put on heads and a new CamMotion cam and the LTCC is administering spark flawlessly. This is all interesting reading though. How do you get codes off the LTCC box?