I started re-routing wires today. But when i was finished I ended up in the same spot. I pulled a code 2 and 4 on the way to work then a code 3 on the way home. i would go in and replace the optical sensor but the car pulls no codes under normal driving conditions. However the car pops between shifts, some louder then others. It never did this when the ignition was working propar.

Starting to think i should have done it right the first time instead of buying a cheap substitute. If I cant get this thing to work by the end of August im just going to throw a crank trigger and cam sensor in the car. never had this much bad luck with just the optispark

 

Do you have a vented opti? If so, are you blowing boost back throught the opti? Do you think that could be causing some problems?? Without the high voltage in the opti I wouldn't think the venting is nearly as important. Like maybe seal it up and see what happens.. I'm just grasping at straws.. I'm giving my current setup one more shot, if I have any more problems I'm switching over to a hall effect/e-dist setup. (I said that on my last failure too lol.)

good luck, hopefully my LTCC will be back by Tuesday and I can see how it goes..

 

Bypass the LTCC, and see if the problem goes away. If you are convinced the LTCC is at fault, get a replacement. Why come on the forum whining about it? Let Bob handle the problem.

 

Brady,
I thought if he has the line that goes into the intake manifold with the little check valve in it, It would pevent boost from going into the opti. I was told that the check valve is open during vacuum and closes during boost. Is that not correct?

Claude

 

Good point, why not bypass it and take that variable out. Then youll know if it is the culprit, if it is send it back to Bob. If not then keep T/Sing, but at least you narrowed it down.

 

The stock opti does not have enough energy to fire 600+hp I dont have a 6a laying around along with a coil. Why come on the forum whining about it? why does anyone post on this forum, to inform, and help others that may have similar problems down the road. Dont get me wrong bob is a great guy to work with, but as I said this post may help another down the road.

Brady thats what im thinking hall-effect with crank trigger if this does not work. the hall seems like a better idea then the drilling into the cam gear.

As for the opti its a vented but I have no lines going to it. I pulled it apart a month ago and everything looked clean I also loc-tite the cap bolts so its not coming loose.

 

Maybe/probably not, still, if it IS the LTCC, my guess, it's gonna act differently after wiring out the LTCC. No? My goal would be to isolate the problem as much a possible. The LTCC was tested with a turbo setup. Your setup would not be the first, to be run (well) with the LTCC.

 

When INTMD8 has the s-trim on his motor and made 634rwhp (peak) it didn't have a MSD box on it

 

yup!

if i hooked up the WHITE wire from the LTCC box to the OUTPUT wire of the STOCK ignition module (the one that goes TO THE STOCK coil) the car would run but i would get code 4 from the LTCC box NO SES LIGHT and the car would sputter below 2500 but once it got above 2500 it would be ok!

BUT.. if i hooked the white wire to the INPUT wire of the stock ignition module like it says your supposed to i would get NO codes from the LTCC box but i get an SES light CODE 41 (ignition control circuit open!) but the car ran fine except for the fact that id be running around with an SES light on all the time not exactly the way i like to do things

so i dunno what to do with this thing.. would it be ok to run around with a code 41?? doesnt the ECM automatically put the car in LIMP MODE for ANY SES LIGHT???

 

Hi guys.

A couple things. I am busily working with all of you to figure out whats up.

1, MSD makes several kinds of wires. The problem of occaisional wierd codes seems to be related to the 8.5 mm "Superconductor" wires. Jake (sleeper z)is going to try some more conventional wires as a test. I think it will make a big difference.

As a rule, I prefer the Magnecor wires, but any good quality wire that supresses well is fine. I had good luck with regular Taylor 8mm wires, boosting to 12 psi in my Impala.

2, the code 42 should not happen, there is a circuit in the LTCC to provide feedback to the PCM that the 'module' is connected. If there is a problem with this circuit, then a 42 would be the result.

Bob

 

Thanks for the help Bob!

 

your email of the other day said you were getting a 41.....

Which code are you getting?

Bob

 

It was fine with the stock ignition and the blower.

However, it was breaking up at the 600rwhp mark with the turbo until I installed the MSD. I'm guessing it's because the turbo has some exhaust contamination of the intake charge whereas the SC did not.

I'm still suprised at how many people hate the opti. The only failure I ever had was loose rotor bolts. Otherwise it's always worked great for me.

 

SH*T YOUR RIGHT it was code 41 sorry.. lemme rephrase!!

if i hooked up the WHITE wire from the LTCC box to the OUTPUT wire of the STOCK ignition module (the one that goes TO THE STOCK coil) the car would run but i would get code 4 from the LTCC box NO SES LIGHT and the car would sputter below 2500 but once it got above 2500 it would be ok!

BUT.. if i hooked the white wire to the INPUT wire of the stock ignition module like it says your supposed to i would get NO codes from the LTCC box but i get an SES light CODE 41 (ignition control circuit open!) but the car ran fine except for the fact that id be running around with an SES light on all the time not exactly the way i like to do things

so i dunno what to do with this thing.. would it be ok to run around with a code 41?? doesnt the ECM automatically put the car in LIMP MODE for ANY SES LIGHT???

 

Hmm,

Ok, code 41 should not happen. If you had the coil still on the car when you hooked the box up to the white/black wire you could have hurt the ltcc box. (that wire has some big spikes on it)

The ECM does not default to limp mode for every problem. It varies by DTC. Some of the default actions make no sense. (like open loop + fans for a knock sensor fault...)

I'd be happy to check/fix the LTCC if you send it to me. I emailed the address to you last week.

Bob