Any progress on the OPTI alternative
GP Moderator
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 645
From: Columbus, Ohio
Originally posted by mtxpert
That's cool about the retard and rev limiter but I also require a window switch and a 2nd rev limiter for staging.
That's cool about the retard and rev limiter but I also require a window switch and a 2nd rev limiter for staging.
If I could afford to, I'd love to go to the LTCC setup. If my MSD Digital 6 fries again (I'm on #3
), I'll send it back to MSD again, get another new one free (seems MSD realizes these boxes have problems), and just sell the damn thing and use the money towards the LTCC box. A very worth while mod IMO.
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 799
From: Breese, IL
quick question to all you LTCC guys: How do you keep the install clean with all those wires? I wanna do this, but it looks like such a mess under the hood.
I also don't care for mounting them to the valve covers because of valve lash adjustment on motors with solid lifters. I was thinking of welding some brackets on to a STB. Anyone have other ideas?
I also don't care for mounting them to the valve covers because of valve lash adjustment on motors with solid lifters. I was thinking of welding some brackets on to a STB. Anyone have other ideas?
Administrator
Joined: Nov 1998
Posts: 71,110
From: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
Stealth approach.... hang them behind the lower radiator support, run the wires underneath the headers. Not a good idea for a blower car... a broken blower belt will do a lot of damage to the wires. Also, this is not a daily driver and this in not an LTCC setup.
LS1 COILS
LS1 COILS
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 799
From: Breese, IL
Thanks for the responses. I still haven't seen an answer to my question regarding the wiring harness though. How do you keep the engine bay clean with the huge wiring harness that comes with the LTCC. Post pics if ya got 'em.
Registered User
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 1,791
From: Upstate New York,USA
Roadie-Bob provides plenty of wire length so that you can place the box quite distant from the coils. However, I , like you, find the 'bag o snakes' look a little offputting. I'm gonna make a pedestal on the intake to mount the box, then I'm going to cut the coil harness wires to 'just' the length to go from the LTCC box to the coils and solder/heat shrink the wires and reincase them in the corrugated loom for a tidy look.
Registered User
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 1,791
From: Upstate New York,USA
Also, as far as needing access to the valves for lash adjustment, if you were to make brackets like mine except to slot the brackets instead of just having a bolt hole, you could merely loosen the bolts and slide the coil/bracket assembly out of the way. That couldn't amount to any real impedence to getting the covers off would it?
www.taekwondoplus.org/z28/LTCC.htm
www.taekwondoplus.org/z28/LTCC.htm
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 799
From: Breese, IL
It looks like each of your coild are mounted separately -- that would mean I'd have to take 8 coils loose every time. If i had them on the STB, I might be able to take the valve covers off without taking anything else apart. If not, I could just unplug the cables and plug wires and take the STB off (10 minutes).
I'm still contemplating other ideas. There's got to be a good way to do this without getting in the way.
I'm still contemplating other ideas. There's got to be a good way to do this without getting in the way.
Registered User
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 1,791
From: Upstate New York,USA
Don't you have to take off 8 bolts to take off the valve covers anyway? One coil per valve cover bolt. Anyway,... theres a guy that mounted his coils up under the cowl. Four coils per side. Each group of four in a "C" shaped bracket (with the opening of the C pointing down) The coils were suspended in the brackets by threaded rod. Chrome Acorn nuts were on the ends of the threaded rods that stuck out either end of the C bracket. The plug wires just descended from there. Admittedly, this was on an LS1 but I would think this would be an idea that could be used by us (mighty) LT1 wizards.
Here's a pic
http://www.thebeasst.com/Motor_done.jpg
Here's a pic
http://www.thebeasst.com/Motor_done.jpg
Registered User
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 487
From: East Petersburg, Pa, USA
Originally posted by SStrokerAce
Why doesn't anyone think of adapting a crank trigger to this whole setup and just getting rod of the opti? Seems to me that a MSD crank trigger will work so much better than a opti.
A distributor is the way to go on the cheap, that with a MSD 7 programaable and you are already there.
This is a good idea guys, but it seems like reinventing the wheel.
MY choice would be a 2 computers, one like a MSD 7 for the spark and one for the fuel injectors. That makes it imediately adpatable to a SBC too.
Bret
Why doesn't anyone think of adapting a crank trigger to this whole setup and just getting rod of the opti? Seems to me that a MSD crank trigger will work so much better than a opti.
A distributor is the way to go on the cheap, that with a MSD 7 programaable and you are already there.
This is a good idea guys, but it seems like reinventing the wheel.
MY choice would be a 2 computers, one like a MSD 7 for the spark and one for the fuel injectors. That makes it imediately adpatable to a SBC too.
Bret
The biggest problem I have is my ECU is an 74022-L which is specifically designed to interface with the Optispark. I would have to send it back to Accel and have it modified to work with a crank trigger. Of course that may be a moot point as I'm thinking of upgrading to a Gen 7 as a winter project.
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Joined: Jan 1999
Posts: 839
From: Minnesota
Originally posted by sseeya
That's exactly what I'm thinking. I currently using an Accel Gen 6 DFI in my racecar. It's batch fire so it requires no cam signal. I figure I can use a crank trigger to signal the ECU and then use the LTCC to distribute the spark to the individiual coil packs.
The biggest problem I have is my ECU is an 74022-L which is specifically designed to interface with the Optispark. I would have to send it back to Accel and have it modified to work with a crank trigger. Of course that may be a moot point as I'm thinking of upgrading to a Gen 7 as a winter project.
That's exactly what I'm thinking. I currently using an Accel Gen 6 DFI in my racecar. It's batch fire so it requires no cam signal. I figure I can use a crank trigger to signal the ECU and then use the LTCC to distribute the spark to the individiual coil packs.
The biggest problem I have is my ECU is an 74022-L which is specifically designed to interface with the Optispark. I would have to send it back to Accel and have it modified to work with a crank trigger. Of course that may be a moot point as I'm thinking of upgrading to a Gen 7 as a winter project.
Administrator
Joined: Nov 1998
Posts: 71,110
From: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
Driving 8 individual coils in direct fire requires a cam position signal. If you are going to run batch fire on a crank signal only, you will need to use the E'motive 4-coil setup, firing two cylinders simultaneously.
The LTCC is not a "replacement for the Opti". It is simply a device to drive 8 ignition channels from the stock PCM and the Opti low res signal.
The LTCC is not a "replacement for the Opti". It is simply a device to drive 8 ignition channels from the stock PCM and the Opti low res signal.
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 300
From: Hudson,MA currently Worcester, MA
you could mount them like i did on my LT1
Fits under the cowl.
www.96z28ss.cz28.com just go to my stroker page
Rob
Fits under the cowl.
www.96z28ss.cz28.com just go to my stroker page
Rob
