Any progress on the OPTI alternative
Sometimes. The problem is that the optical sensor can get fouled by that crap that flys off the rotor and posts so you never really know. I test my opti OFF the motor before putting everything back on. Just disconnect all the fuel injectors (the pulsing of the F.I. is triggered by the opti), hook up the opti connector, the coil, turn on the key and spin the rotor with your fingers. You should hear the snap, snap, snap from the spark plugs if all is well. After that, put it back on properly.
Unless things have changed, electricity still flows from negative to positive.
My question is: when an opti starts to sputter can we get good results by replacing the cap and rotor ...especially when the symptom is identical to condensation in an old style distributor? Like on rainy days with cool nights on a 1977 chevy v8?
My question is: when an opti starts to sputter can we get good results by replacing the cap and rotor ...especially when the symptom is identical to condensation in an old style distributor? Like on rainy days with cool nights on a 1977 chevy v8?
I purchased a used Accel DFI Gen 7 system. Attempting to make the move to opti-less, since, I have not had much luck with them (6 failures and 3 failue modes). So, I have launched a new project to keep my mind active. I know now what Ingineer was saying about the cam signal. But, I think I have my own simple solution since I have access to a machine shop and alot of old opti parts. Thanx for your valuable info. (97ss 383 - D1 MM6) B.
http://www.eficonnection.com/eficonnection/default.aspx
Hit where it says 24x. That is the opti alternative.
Hit where it says 24x. That is the opti alternative.
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