Hey everyone ... I am looking into subframes for my F-Body. Not sure which is best weld or bolt on?

Also I am looking into the BMR subframes ... if anyone has advise or suggestions I would greatly appreciate it!!

 

Great mod- GM should have done more than they did for a 300 + HP car- but it was a cheap pony car, not a 'vette-

Love mine- went with bolt-ons because it was easier, but I will never take them off- You will notice the difference in rigidity and less squeaking.

 

Hey *****,

Thanx for the response.

I am just looking to tighten everything up before the track season starts, I feel this will be a good start.

So the bolt ons ... would you have gone with weld ons instead or are you happy with your selection?

Which ones did you get?

 

I got Jegster bolt-on because I could install the fairly quickly while I had my car 2 feet off the ground. Very straight forward installation. I can always get them welded later.

 

Very happy with the UMI weld ons, they do a great job.

 

I have 3-point SLP bolted and welded. Great mod.

 

I have SLP triangulated weld on ones. BEST CHEAP MOD! my car was twisting all over... not any more! and that is with 520hp at the crank.

 

Many people like to get the bolt ins, and take them to a good shop and have them welded. I would only go bolt in if you really can't find anyone you trust to weld them in. I wouldn't let any old exhaust shop do the welding, however many of them can handle it....

I run the G2's. Basicly the same as Mac's, that can be had inexpensively from ws6store.com, but if I had purchased them I'd have chosen the UMI's that go back to the LCA or one of the versions that triangulate on each side. Those have to work best.. The SLP's aren't cheap though, esp bolt ins..

 

forgot to mention, the SLP weld in ones that I am running do go back to the control arm bolt. My body stiffened right up, which our cars desperately need.

 

OK now that I have been doing some searching I have formed more questions. I honestly think I am thinking WAY to far into this but what the heck:

1.) Boxed tubing or tubular(roll cage) tubing?

2.) I see a set of convertible sub frames BMR offers, if I don't have a convertible, will it just stiffen up the chassis that much more?

Just trying to do it right the first time before I move on to the next phase of the suspension upgrade

Which I am thinking is rear adjustable drag shocks and or control arms.

 

These are the best if you can afford them.http://www.slponline.com/view_produc...01&BIG=70801-1

 

The convertible SFC's are different, they came from the factory with some bracing already in place. I don't know of any difference between square tubing and round tubing- But I do like the 3-point design. Mine are bolt-in, figured I can remove them, or weld them in whenever I want to-

Lastly, you should put them in while the suspension is loaded, not with the wheels hanging- After you do, you will see what everybody keeps saying about tightening the car up, getting rid of the flexing and squeaks.

 

these are the ones I have, but I paid a lot less for them on ebay from a vendor that was selling a bunch of them like 5 years ago. Guess inflation has taken hold! Wow! I paid 150 shipped...

 

BMR Tubular Weld-in. Have had them a long time and they make a huge difference.