I am going to be ordering up a k-frame and a-arms i was planning on getting the PA Racing Chromoly K-Frame and the steel a-arms.

My question is when would chromoly be necessary , like how fast does a car need to go, how much power does it need to have, or how does it need to be driven to justify buying the chromoly parts?

Its a daily driver, driven a real lot and real hard.

Should i get all chromoly parts? or all steel? or which should i spend the extra money on chromoly k-frame or the arms?

thanks,
ryan

 

Chorme moly has nothing to do with how much power the car makes, or how fast it goes. Chrome moly parts achieve the same strength as mild steel parts, while using a thinner gage tubing, thereby reducing weight.

You might want to look over the other tubular K-members available.... BMR, Spohn, UMI. I've seen the PA break, due to poor welding quality. They are generally recommended only for drag/track use, not for daily drivers. I would look at the Spohn or UMI for a daily driver, and not worry about chrome moly weight savings. Welding is much more difficult on chrome moly.

 

roger that thanks, i saw one place that said the BMR wont work with shorty headers? i have bbk shorty headers so i wouldnt wanna run into that problem, can anybody confirm if these headers will fit with a bmr k-member?

 

UMI K-member seems to be the best quality / toughest built for daily driving "abuse" (they also offer the extra beefed up road-race version, which will undoubtedly take even more abuse). Both are still ~20+lbs lighter than stock . Oh, and can you say ADJUSTABLE?! (I mean for camber/caster)

 

I am glad to read this about UMI. All of my suspension for my 95Z is UMI.
I just ordered a k-member and the upper and lower a-arms to go with it.
I dread the install, but am glad to continue hearing such good things about UMI.

 

just started putting the new UMI stuff in, it works fine with the bbk shorty headers, i guess the bmr one does not.




its going backin tomorrow ..
I still cannot find replacement joints for my steering shaft, i need the u joints in the steering shaft. Dealer only sells whole peice for 200 something dollars.

 

Nice pics of your engine and k-member.

I will have to install the k-member I am getting with the engine in the car.

I was looking for directions. Does anyone have a link w/ directions for installing the UMI k-member? UMI said they don't offer instructions w/ the k-member, just the upper and lower control arms.

Thanks!

 

its real easy with the engine in the car, just hold the engine up at top with a crane or a support beam, then just swing the steering rack outta the way, and your only a few bolts away its pretty easy.
Ill be selling my LT1 -kmember if anyone wants it.
Ryan

 

Your selling the UMI K-member after you just put it in?

I asked UMI about instructions as well. They said they were working on them, but there suggestion was, since installing there K-member was no different then a factory one to use a service manual for tips.

 

I meant the factory K-Member if anybody is doing a v6 swap and needs it..

 

That is what I was going to do at this point, I have a friend at the dealership that was going to print out the service manual directions for me. I couldn't decide on doing it ourselves or letting someone else do it.

I have heard it's simple, but very time consuming.

My a-arms and k-member from UMI will be hugger orange, to match the rest of their suspension products I have

 

I believe BMR has instructions on their website . I realize it's not the same "brand", but the process is more or less the same .

 

AH!

That is a good idea, I didn't think about that...should be more or less the same

Will check it out this week...

Thanks

 

I believe your F1 style tires are on backwards! Shouldn't the 'point' in the center of the tire point forward?