Stiil in, replied via Email today-
Pat (SSTAT)

 

If, for whatever reason, you are not interested in (the possibility) of my adaptors, you might look ....

Bob,

Thanks for your reply, and the detailed info on the C4 brakes.

I think that I have given you the wrong impression, I do want a set of your brackets. I was trying to see if there was a chance of a plan "B" since so many people were ahead of me in the list.

From the info you gave me C4's don't sound very good, I think plan "B" will be stay with the stock brakes.

I am almost ready to order all of the parts to turn my 95 into a 96 spec 1LE. I have found all of the PN's for bushings springs shocks and so on.

The car would not take a proper alignment and feel's sloppy on the road. I think that the factory shocks and bushings are gone after 89K miles and the adjustments are to limited to account for the wear. My rear bump stops completely rotted away, and I had to replace them.

I felt that If I had to replace everything then why not upgrade to the best factory parts available.

Your kit interests me since it will use factory parts that I can find and not some special pad or rotor that will be heavily marked up when I try to replace it.

I might do some autocross, but the car will see mostly street duty. The brakes will be over kill, but unlike many people I like to add performance not flash.

So, that is what I am about. I am trying to avoid slpping down 28k on the new Evo by upgrading my camaro.

I don't know if I want to go to the import Dark Side, but you have to give credit to any car that has 13" Brembos and Recaro seats from the factory.

Thanks again for the info, and let me know if you start making lots of aluminum silicon chips.

Alan

 

A few days ago I posted that Andrew McCall had installed C5 front brakes using my adaptor brackets a year ago. He went with the Durastop Ceramic front pads. http://www.camarossworld.com/Technical/Brakes/C5/
I emailed him asking his opinion of the setup. He is still using the ceramic pads and emailed me his opinion of the combination today. I will copy his thoughts below:

"Bob,

Hey there. I am very happy with the C5 upgrade, although have not been able to spend as much time driving the SS as I would like. The front brakes, yes I am still using the Durastops. Brake feel is good, definitely better than OEM, I wound up using the Durastops in hopes to have low dusting, since my ride is more appearance than performance, but I do like driving spiritedly."

Hope this is helpful.

 

Second Batch Order:
1) ZLT195
2) BBZ
3) backrdrunner
4) JWBerk94Z
5) sleeperZ96BT
6) richclv
7) No_Secrets
8) Steve in Seattle
9) Hyperspeed 97z28
10) HTWLSS
11) jasycZ28
12) 94TA25ann
13) 818camaro95
14) Chad Allen
15) SSTAT
16) chasmanZ28
17) The Highlander
18) The Highlander (2nd Set)
19) NSSINR8 U
20) a5150ward
21) jmzlt1
22) anasazi
23) HTWLSS (2nd Set)
24) KenB
25) TCredTA95
26) Carlos01SS
27) Geoff Chadwhick
28) FlatIronsZ
29) 350350
30) mrz28 73/97
31) TP121
32) SS#2420
33) z28barnett

I received one drop and one addition to the list, and a few more confirmations. There are 26 solid commitments, 3 conditional commitments, and I havn't heard from the 4 people above (indicated by red text).

 

hi, i'm about ready to do the install:
1) i bought hawk pads, and not the z06 pads, so i need the
anti-rattle springs and pad abutment shims. bob told me
that the NAPA part # is 83212 and I'll need 2 of those kits to equip 2 calipers. but on napaonline.com, it says the kit is $19 and it is a "front" kit, so i'm thinking it is for both calipers. is that correct? do i only need one of them? or two? seems like $40 would be way too much money for that. here's the link to napa:

http://www.napaonline.com/cgi-bin/nc...1&prmenbr=5806

2) how hard will it be to use a sawzaw to cut the ear thingy off the spindle? how many blades will i go through? i bought a sears 8.5 amp professional saw. what is the best blade for cutting the spindle?

thanx guys!

 

The front caliper hardware kit will run you about $21 and is for ONE side only. You'll find pictures of whats included on my web page.

I used 2 milwaukee blades to cut my spindles. It took about 3-5 min per side with spraying WD40 on the blade. The whole install really shouldnt exceed 4-5 hours total.

 

you rock!

 

Someone posted within the last month that either Autozone or Pepboys now had a C5 caliper hardware kit available for something like $6 or $8. They said it included enough springs/shims for both front calipers.

On an LS1 steering knuckle, you only need to cut off the lower mounting ear, and it is very small compared to the LT1’s. If you use Milwaukee brand blades, one will be more than enough if you keep it oiled. If you use Sears blades, maybe 2 or 3, whether or not you keep them oiled while you cut.

It might be best if further technical questions were posted in the suspension/brakes section instead of in a group purchase thread, but I am no moderator. I will keep an eye on that section.

 

Well, on my LT1 car, I went through one milwaukee blade through 3 of the 4 cuts, and used a new one for the last cut, and that was oiling them.. but as Bob said, you have much less to cut off, so you might be good with just one blade if oiled while it is cutting It's also pretty easy to do the cut, although my hands certainly got the circulation going with that damn sawzall vibrating away

 

I went through 3 carbide discs to cut them.

 

Anyone tried a plasma cutter? Any concerns with heating the metal this much?

I'm pretty good on 3/4" mild steel plate, but I have yet to try a cast/forged piece like this with any precision. 30-seconds on the plasma sounds a lot easier than messing with oiled blades and day-long "after vibes" my hands get after using even a dremmel.

The knuckles are forged steel right?

 

I am not familiar with plasma cutters, but the steering knuckles are cast iron, and are not sensitive to heat. There is not much “grain structure” to damage, nor would they have much in the way of unrelieved internal stresses. So, warping should not be a potential problem.

However, if the process melts any of the surrounding metal, I would be certain to stay a reasonable distance from the wheel-bearing-assembly bolt up faces. Any distortion there could cause a real problem. Also, any spatter or slag byproduct, such as is produced in welding, could cause the same “non-flat” bolt up surface problem.

The easiest tool I have used to cut off the ears was a hand-held band saw. It didn’t vibrate like a Sawsall, and I didn’t have to keep spraying oil on the cut. It took 20 minutes for all 4 LT1 ears.

 

Did you guys know that GM has already the cutted spindles for sale???

I saw it on a GMPP.

 

let's put the installation and technical questions/comments in the suspension section, in this thread if possible:

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...hreadid=268438

so if you have the part number from pep boys or autozone with those shims and springs, post it there

 

I want a set, sent you email Steve
Thanks,
Steve T.