Are the ceramic pads w/ C5 rotors that much of a diff than stock Z28 brakes. If they aren't too much diff, should I go w/ more aggressive pad? I do like the idea of no dust! . Can anybody give some prices on the upgraded conv.

 

Quick Update, I've added mrz28 73/97 as #32... he sent me a PM on 5/23/04 @ 2032 that I overlooked. My apologies for the oversight.

350350, I've added your email to the list, you'll receive a confirm request in a few minutes (as will mrz28 73/97).

Second Batch Order (possibly June? ):
1) ZLT195
2) BBZ
3) backrdrunner
4) JWBerk94Z
5) sleeperZ96BT
6) richclv
7) No_Secrets
8) Steve in Seattle
9) Hyperspeed 97z28
10) HTWLSS
11) jasycZ28
12) 94TA25ann
13) 818camaro95
14) Chad Allen
15) SSTAT
16) chasmanZ28
17) The Highlander
18) The Highlander
19) jasycZ28
20) NSSINR8 U
21) a5150ward
22) jmzlt1
23) anasazi
24) HTWLSS (2nd Set)
25) KenB
26) TCredTA95
27) Carlos01SS
28) Geoff Chadwhick
29) FlatIronsZ
30) grn94formula
31) 350350
32) mrz28 73/97
33) TP121
34) SS#2420

 

Didn't get the email, but I check this thread daily, so if it happens, I will know.

KenB

 

You might check with Andrew McCall. He upgraded his LS1 Camaro SS to C5 front brakes using my brackets about 1 year ago, and he went with the Delco Durastop Ceramic pads. I also would be interested to know if he is still using the ceramics (and likes them), or decided to move up to a “dirty” pad. If you email me, I will send you his email address.

His install site is: http://www.camarossworld.com/Technical/Brakes/C5/ The brackets pictured are my older steel design.

Regarding prices, the second post on P. 1 of this thread has links to all conversion related information. If you go with the ceramic pads, you will save a few dollars over the ZO6 “pads included” price. http://www.speedspecialty.com/prodim...bpartslist.doc

If you read through this thread, you will find a couple of posts from people who bought take-off or used C5 brakes. That was less expensive than new parts, duh.

 

I didn't receive an email, but we're definitely still interested in two sets. (Chances are your email was filtered out as SPAM if it didn't have "Camaro" in the title.) If you could re-send the email to me, I'll watch for it and forward it on to my husband, Steve so he can see it, too.
Thank you!!!

 

Same here... but im watching this thread like a hawk... this brackets are AWESOME

 

So you can use 13.1" rotors with your kit????

 

I doubt it. I certainly would not try. IF a true 13.1” rotor had the same height friction area as a C5 rotor, it would move that area out radially .15” compared to a C5 rotor. That could cause interference between the outer edge of the rotor and the Pad Abutment Bracket. It could also cause the inner edge of the brake pad to ride on the rotor’s hub flange. As you may have observed, a LOT of misinformation circulates on the internet. Often people pick some of it up (and don’t examine it to determine if it is true) and incorporate it into their knowledge base.

I have emailed Andrew to ask for his input on the ceramic pad question. Maybe he will address the rotor question also. It looks like Andrew used Baer Eradispeed C5 front rotors. They measure 12.8” in diameter. Some manufacturers “round” the 12.8 up to 13 to make it sound larger.

 

AAHHH that is interesting...

Bob what do you think about the stop force?????

I need better braking w/o fading... my c5s fade easily.... As i said.. its a big improvement over the 10.crap that i had...

but still.. I do not need a better calliper... I do think I need better rotors...

 

You can keep me on the list for only one set. Let someone else get the second set. Was I the one you couldn't email? I am deployed and can't check my hotmail. Thanks

 

Rotors do not fade. Brake pads fade. You eliminate fade by implementing brake cooling ducting, using a higher temp rated pad, or both. That said, the rotor does have an effect on the total brake system temperature. A higher mass rotor can absorb more heat before the temp spikes as high. A rotor with a more efficient internal cooling vane system can dissipate heat more rapidly and keep the “average” rotor temp lower. This is a small contribution compared to cooling ducting. If you have not cracked a C5 rotor, then your rotor temp is not TOO high, and it sounds like you should use a higher temp pad for competition. The C5 front rotor, unlike the LT1 and LS1 rotors, is a curved vane directional rotor, and has very good self-cooling properties. I have not used brake cooling ducting since I switched to the C5 setup in 1998.

The Stopforce rotors appear to be the best quality cross-drilled rotors available for C5 brakes. They weigh only slightly more than OEM C5 rotors, but they will add more inertia than that would indicate. They have aluminum hats, therefore their greater mass is centered more toward the perimeter of the rotor. That is good for temp spike absorption, but will consume more accelerating HP. Also, braking pressure, caliper force, and pad heat (leads to fade) will have to increase to overcome the additional rotor inertia. In theory, even steering response will suffer slightly because of the greater gyroscopic moment that will need to be overcome.

Once you’ve worn them out, total replacement costs for Stopforce rotors will be about 9 times more than NAPA C5 rotors. I doubt that they would last 9 times longer. Additionally, you must do a good deal of work in attaching the new rotor discs on the “re-used” Stopforce aluminum hats. And after you have bolted them together, according to Stopforce, you need to find a shop that can “true” the new discs on the old hats if you don’t want vibration. If you don’t want to do all of that, you could just buy all new Stopforce rotors, but then your cost is 12 times as much as the NAPA or Autozone rotors, or 6 times as much as OEM rotors.

Porsche designs great rotors, but even they would last longer if they were not cross-drilled. Also, Porsche only sells those rotors in North America with “steel” hats because of safety concerns. Stopforce replaces the steel with aluminum, and they admit that their hats have a finite service life (I would say 3 cycles at most). I understand that many people like the look of holes in their rotors. I would certainly spend $600 on a pair of Stopforce rotors before I would spend $400 + on Eradispeeds. The Stopforce rotors have proven themselves on the track.

 

Dont quite follow your advice... I guess you are saying that the stopforce are not an economical idea...

But... you do like them... I agree that cost is WAY HIgh... but from what you are telling me the C5 rotor is NOT the problem.... What other pads can I use for higher temps??? i am using the z06 pads 02..

Let me know

 

Bob,

I know that the cross drilled/slotted rotors tend to not last as long as the standard rotors, but I have a question about that. I do NOT drive like a maniac, race my car or beat the heck out of it. What kind of life do you think I can expect, generically, out of the GM cross drilled C5 rotors with, say the Z06 pads?

I know it is impossible to factor in all the variables, but just a general "guess-timate" would be appreciated.

If it helps, I just sold my 2000 WS6 T/A A4 with 35K on it (I bought it brand new) and was still using the original brake pads, rotors, etc. Never had to have them changed and they still had plenty of life left in them when I sold it.

Thanks,
Darrin

 

JEJE... I do beat the hell out of my car

and I do have the GM c5 cross and slotted... not much of a difference really.. I thought they were going to fade less.. the reality is.. no.

 

I am more interested in the life of the rotors then fade. My stock LS1 brakes haven't been a problem.........YET.