i use mothers quick wax to just "cleam up" the car about once a week but I als ouse zaino which works great!

 

zaino on my 2000 SS. makes the paint look great! check out my pics in my garage to see

 

Ok imho what u need to do is be decent with a buffer, after you wash your car, you want to cut with a cutting pad and compound(if u don't know what your doing and the use actual buffers, they look like angle grinders with a suction pad and a wool pad, u can burn right thru your paint. But if u r slow and don't try to muscle the buffer and use a light cutting compound, make sure to do a clean buff, any shiny plastic will also buff up to a nice shine, be careful u can knock the sh** out of your self and tear off your antenna, windshield wipers, rearview mirrors. If u aren't experienced have someone else do it, or use an orbital polisher. After u do a clean cut, wipe the car down, change pads, use a final step that will remove the swirls that usually occur when u cut, especially on dark colors, black, purple etc. I usually use a mirror glaze and a new pad, clean buff, wipe, new padneguires tech 2 wax and I buff it in good, and don't listen to hype about pads, a good quality new wool pad on the finish step is a must, cracked rings on the pad will lead to swirls. If u have hard water spots on your glass, when u cut use the buffer and they will buff right off. Now u will have compound in molding lines, door handle cracks, u know how to use a detail brush on the body right? And when u buff don't over use compound or u will spray it everywhere if u don't know what u r doing. Be sure to wipe out your jams, the compound can over time get almost rock hard. Sorry to sound so mother hen like, but I've seen people that didn't know what they were doing really hurt themselves and the cars they love. I just don't want to be responsible for that. Pull the car out to use sun light to look for swirls, use the orbital if they aren't too bad, and if they are u will need to spot buff those areas, tip it's easier to control the buffer if u keep it close to ur bodyon the sides that means get down low with it, and don't lock in the speed unless u r experienced, and this is a biggie DONT EVER USE TIRE SPRAY BEFORE U BUFF, it will seal the silicone under the wax and u will wind up with spots in your paint. Sorry I spent my highschool years and paid for most of college doing highend detail work. Also most detail shops have cleaners and waxes available to them that work very differently (sometimes better, sometimes worse) than what we can get ahold of. Lots use malco products, rejuevenator buffing compound can work miracles. 1 step and almost a mirror finish, can even be used to glaze or seal and even to melt paint. This is a thing that very experienced buffers can do, use the buffer and just the right amount of compound, high rpms, close to 3000 and on things like key marks u heat the paint to where it will almost burn and u can actually move paint over gouges and scratches, don't know what u r doing and u have just burnt the paint over the key marks. Do not try this @ all if u don't know what u r doing

 

I second the Turtle... he has never let me down, comes off as easy as it goes on. Gramps used it, Dads used it... and I still use it. usually for the good base wax coat, or to clean the top layer... then straight Caranuba

My buddy swears by Zymol but it looks too oily for me

 

Geeze, everyone needs to move up to Zaino. This clear sealer has been on the market for three or four years. Sal Zaino says it will last 9 months, but it will last longer than that. I know, because I've been using it. You can put it on glass and plastic as well as paint. After you wash and dry the car, put it on and walk off, as it doesn't have to be buffed off. You might think it's high, but the cost per application is very low. Remember, with Zaino less is best.

http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/...duct_Code=Z-CS