I was talking with a guy in my car club about another members Viper. I wasn't able to clarify with the owner, but the person told me the viper had N20 and Propane.

Maybe he or I misunderstood, but he told me that he was running a 250 shot with a propane injection. He told me that the propane acted as an octane booster to allow for the 250 shot on pump gas.

Is that possible to run N20 and Propane? I know that diesel trucks use propane and it works like N20 for us. I also knew that Viper guys used just Propane on their cars and somehow it created the same effect. I don't understand how it works with both or if it is possible.

Can anyone clarify and if it is possible and works as an octane booster, would that work on our cars?

Just a little skepticle.
-Sean

 

Never heard of it for an application like that. With that amount of spray, most people will build a sperate fuel system for the juice with a cell to hold race gas, or alchohol injection. I don't see what's preventing him from using it, other then where the heck would he fit the bottle.

 

It can be done. i've done it on a couple of diffrent cars. In fact the very first Viper that this was done to has run a best so far of 6.50@110 in the 1/8 and if any body is close to Irwindale he should be out running tonite. The engine in the viper is all stock except for headers. The propane is high octane and slow burning so it works good as a supplement fuel. If anyone has any questions let me know and I will answer what I can

Shaun

 

Once I get my 1st 175 HP shot all setup and verified (see other post in the topic) then I will be adding another 75 to 100 HP shot using propane as my secondary fuel!



Mike

 

There is an NOS Viper kit that uses propane to supply the fuel to match the nitrous flow. Supposedly, the huge dual "log" type plenums in the Viper V-10 do not like wet flow, with excessive puddling of fuel. So they use propane. There is a link floating around to the source for the kit, which runs about $1,800 if I recall correctly. I saw one of the kits being installed in a Viper at Second Street Speed in Perkasie, PA, and it took me totally by surprise seeing the propane bottle sitting next to the nitrous bottle. The Viper had already made 490rwHP running NA, so I wanted to see what it would do with the 250HP kit, but they couldn't get the controller working before I had to leave.....

 

Wow, I didn't know that was possible.

How safe is it to use propane instead of race gas? Is there any boost in HP? Like if you sprayed a 200 shot, how much propane would you use to make it safe to run on pump gas?

Does anyone make a kit for the F-Body? Would it be cheaper to make and use a seprate fuel cell with race gas, or a tank of propane to inject with the N20?

I am looking at using a 200 shot (probably direct port) and was going to use a seprate fuel cell and fill it with race gas, but this looks to be an interesting alternative. How cost effective would it be to use one over the other?

-Sean

 

The propane acts kind of like alcohol it is high octane slow burning and is cold. I've done 200HP kits on LS1's with good success. 91 octane stock timing and no KR good A/F ratios. The LS1's I've done have been going strong for over 6 months now and the Viper is going on five years and he is up to about 300HP. If you are going to use direct port then you would want to go ahead and use a separate fuel system and race gas. If you were trying to do a single or even a dual nozzle setup then you could use propane. It is usually done inconjunction with some other form of dry kit as a supplmental fuel.

 

So I would use a dry 200 shot with a shot of propane as the fuel. Is there a propane kit available or is it custom? Could you modify a propane kit from another car such as that used on diesel vehicles?

Does the propane affect anything else? Are any sensors freaked out by the increase in octane? I was only planning on using direct port because I heard large shots of wet nitrous through the intake cause puddling in the intake and lead to backfires. Also that large shots lead to increased wear on the front cylinders because they get the brunt of the gas.

Would a 200 shot and propane yeild the same gains as a 200 wet shot?

I really like the idea of using propane instead of having to drive 40 min to get race gas. Also would a propane tank pass tech as long as it was strapped down and had a blow down tube and such?

-Sean

 

You would just modify a dry kit by adding a fuel solenoid a diffrent nozzle and a propane bottle. So you would get 150hp worth of fuel form the dry kit and the other 50hp from the propane. There is no off the shelf kit so it would have to be custom but the nice thing is it is fairlly inexpensive. It's not for everyone because ther is more line and a little more tunning involed but it's an alternative to guys who don't want to run wet kits or go to direct port or for those that dont have the funds to upgrade the fuel system. 480hp and 620ft/lbs for under $800 is hard to argue with.

Shaun

 

OK I read some of your posts on LS1.com and those helped a bunch. My only concerns now are with fuel safety. With a regular wet kit, you have the fuel pressure safety switch. What do you do in this case? if you go lean its going to be a bad time.

Does everything else work with this setup? (Could you use a timer/delay?) I would assume so since most other add on parts work based on the nitrous side.

My only worry is the fuel and how to monitor/insure you are getting enough. Also you mentioned that no timing would need to be pulled in one of the threads (or someone did) and they said because of the extra octane, is that true even with large shots?

How do the soleniods handle the use of propane as opposed to fuel? Are they or have they shown a tendancy to stick? Is there a way to prevent the lines from freezing (propane is -1XX degrees if I remember the post)? I would assume you would only open the bottle at the track or stop and open as needed? Is there a way to purge it seeing as you would have to open it each time?

I think I might go this route over the summer. Thanks for the help so far. (I wonder if any other LT1s are running propane?) The LT1 wouldn't be any more difficult than the LS1 would it?

-Sean

 

Yes everything still works the same you could use a time delay or a controler. You can still use a FP saftey switch to cut the nitrous solenoid off if the fuel pump died. Because propane is high octane and slow burning less timing needs to be taken out. If you start going real big you will need to pull timing. We picked up 200 RWHP with KR on 91 octane and stock timing on a 2001 Z28. But if I was going to go much higher than that I would probably pull a couple of degrees. The solenoids we use are the Cheater fuel solenoids which are good to about 400psi so they don't have a problem with the pressure. The lines won't freeze nitrous is much colder than propane and the nitrous lines don't frezze. You could just open the bottle at the track but I have left it open for months at a time with no problems. An LT1 would be pretty simple to do if you have any questions just let me know.

Shaun

 

Parts are on the way for a 150HP dry shot and 75HP wet (propane) shot!


I'll let you guys know how it goes...
11's here we come!
Mike