LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

What other valvetrain upgrades needed with cc503 cam swap

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Old 04-11-2007, 12:13 PM
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i've lost oil pressure twice on my car (oil pump drive gears went out) and the fuel pump never shut off. the check gauges light came on and my lifters started making noise that's it.
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Old 04-11-2007, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by crazydavez28
i've lost oil pressure twice on my car (oil pump drive gears went out) and the fuel pump never shut off. the check gauges light came on and my lifters started making noise that's it.
Did the motor lock up the instant you lost oil pressure? This only happens if the motors been running for 30 minutes or so. I can go out right now and drive it everything will be fine but if I let it idle for a long time then drive to drive it pass 3K it will lock up. If I wiped out a bearing could I still drive it?? I don't hearn any strange noises.
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Old 04-11-2007, 01:46 PM
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Hey man, I had the same problem when I did my cam install two years ago. I had 0 oil pressure for about a week before my motor started knocking. I thought it might have been the oil pressure sensor but unfortunately it wasnt. My #4 and #7 rod bearings, which then scored the main bearings, and finally took out the cam bearings. So all in all I had a pile of junk parts after I pulled it apart, except for the block. Did you just pull the oil filter, or did you do a complete oil change? Try some thicker oil like 20-50 and see if the oil pressure comes back up, but having your motor lock isnt a good thing.
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Old 04-11-2007, 01:57 PM
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I just had time to pull the filter last night, but later today I'm going to drain all the oil and put a new filter and new oil (5-30) in it. The metal shavings are caught in the filter. I drained about of cup full of oil out and it was real dark but it wasn't grey and it didn't have any metal in it, just in the filter.If it still locks up all drain it out and see what it looks like and change the oil again and see what happens. It has like 45 PSI at 2.5K but when you hit 3K+ and hold it it locks up. The engine isn't making any strange noises and the metal in the filter doesn't stick to a magnet.

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Old 04-11-2007, 09:09 PM
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OK another and final update. THe engine is toast. Changed the oil, drove around for 5-10 minutes and just when I though the problem was gone the oil gauged dipped down in the red and in died. When you rev the engine between 1500-2500 you can really hear something loose on the inside of the engine. It's a loud rhythmic knocking sound, probably the rear cam bearing I suspect. Anyway, looks like I am going to have to pull the motor and rebuild it. Any tips or links to good rebuild kits? I would suspect I need everything except the pistons... At least I can reuse my $1500 worth of valvetrain parts, but I am going to sell the XFI268 and get a custom grind this time, maybe even LTs if I can find some used ones.
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Old 04-11-2007, 10:10 PM
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that's a serious bummer man had something similar happen on my 68 c-10. brand new motor completely toasted after 100mi.

fortunately when my oil pump drive gear went i caught it within about 10 seconds. but it never died. make sure you get all the bearing material out of those parts before you put em back in
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Old 04-12-2007, 08:48 AM
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If you want a budget rebuild, just have your stock rods/crank turned or cut then get the SpeedPro rebuild kit from summit. Should be good enough for a decent amount of power even with a H/C package of your choice. sorry to hear about the motor going, but good luck bro!

call Combination Motorsports, im pretty sure they can get everything you need for the rebuild.
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Old 04-12-2007, 09:20 AM
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Do I need all the stuff in this kit?

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku

I don't think I need to pistons.
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Old 04-12-2007, 09:54 AM
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are you gonna use the stock pistons? There's another kit that has some forged pistons for $50-$60 more, or just buy some other pistons of your choice and have a supporting vendor get you all the gaskets and misc parts.
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Old 04-12-2007, 10:12 AM
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Alright If I need pistons I'll get them I was just asking if the kit a posted has everything I need for the repair.
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Old 04-12-2007, 11:52 AM
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yes it should have almost everything for your build, but if you have to use oversized bearings after cutting the crank/rods youd have to wait till everything gets finalized at the machine shop.
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Old 04-12-2007, 12:18 PM
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Hopefully you didn't damage the new cam. Sorry to hear about the misfortune.
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Old 04-12-2007, 12:22 PM
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Unhappy

Originally Posted by 2000GTP
Hopefully you didn't damage the new cam. Sorry to hear about the misfortune.
Thanks...
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Old 04-13-2007, 02:35 PM
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I'm going to pour some concrete and build a small metal building so I can pull the frame off the engine and slide it out I'm still trying to figure out what broke. Once the engine warms up it loses oil pressure (of course) but when it's still holding a little pressure the car has no power (like applying the brake while giving gas at the same time, like something is "physically holding it back)and there is a rattling/knocking/spinning sound coming for the rear bottom of the engine near the transmission. It's loudest between 1500-2200 rpm. Any guesses?
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Old 04-13-2007, 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by BradcTA
I'm going to pour some concrete and build a small metal building so I can pull the frame off the engine and slide it out I'm still trying to figure out what broke. Once the engine warms up it loses oil pressure (of course) but when it's still holding a little pressure the car has no power (like applying the brake while giving gas at the same time, like something is "physically holding it back)and there is a rattling/knocking/spinning sound coming for the rear bottom of the engine near the transmission. It's loudest between 1500-2200 rpm. Any guesses?
I think you may have taken out a bearing... You won't know until you start to tear it apart though.
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