I’m doing a 383 for my 94 Z and I went with arp bolts instead of studs, with this came the problem of not being able to have the stock windage tray in the motor. I’ve heard that canton sells a new oil pan that has the windage tray already welded in but it’s like $3-400. Has anyone here welded a windage tray in the stock pan? What problems did you have along the way?
thanks in advance

 

You can just reuse the 3 stock studs instead of the ARP bolts. I believe Miloden also makes the set of long studs for windage tray.

You will need to stand off the tray 1/8" with washers so it clears the rod bolt heads of the stroker crank

I also had to knock out the forward bottom of stock pan to clear rod bolt head, #2. Used the big end of a baseball bat with pan sitting on folded towel to "bump" it out.

Put pan on with no gasket and have someone rotate engine by hand with your ear to pan to confirm you have no interference. The thickness of pan gasket is more space insurance

 

My setup had Pro-Gram Engineering splayed 4-bolt mains. The shop reused the stock inner bolts as required for the tray.



20 years later, engine has produced just under 800 HP / 800lb-ft, (300 shot), car has run 9.90/133.4 MPH on a 200 shot, (only a roll bar, no cage required to run under 10.0), pulling 1.2x 60-ft. Routinely wound out to 7,400 RPM redline, and a couple times hit 8,000 RPM when I missed the 2->3 shift. Photo was taken a few months back when the new owner was checking condition of the rotating assembly.

 

Alright looks like I’ll have no problem reusing the stock inner bolts, thanks guys!

 

Confirm tray clearance. As I mentioned I had to stand it off re-using the stock studs with 1/8" washers. Also washer for the 1 bolt for oil pump

Otherwise this happens

 

Got it, what did you torque the bolt to? Just whatever the spec is stock is what I’d be guessing, but would it be any different with the arp moly lube I’ve got?

 

torque same as ARP bolts