12SCNDZ

I plan on running a stock pan on my new 355. The dilemma is, I want to use ARP main studs. Has anyone made the stock windage tray work with ARP studs? If not, any other solutions?

Frank

Mindgame

Well Frank I can't answer your question as I use an aftermarket pan.

I will say that I'd look into a better pan than the stock unit. The stock pan may be a favorite amongst some members here but if you look at it in comparison to a real good pan, there is no comparison. The stocker really lacks in oil control.... no baffles, no trap doors to keep oil around the pickup.

It's not a bad pan but it's not something I'd want on one of my engines either.

If you're interested, I can give you a contact with Stefs. They can build you a decent pan that's worth power and protection for your engine.

-Mindgame

z28ss96

Canton makes a kick a** oil pan that has a larger oil capacity and baffles.... but you will pay for it plus it has it's own windage tray.

12SCNDZ

I put a new stock pan on mine when I did my head/cam swap last year. I looked at the Canton at that time, but I seen many posts about people having fitament problems with them, and problems with them leaking.

Frank

94 TA TT2S

Frank....Just a few questions....Why the 6 inch rods and the higher compression on the 355....I am looking to build a 355 come tax time.....Just wondering why that setup????

Thanks Ben

12SCNDZ

Longer rods typically make more power, as does higher compression. Actual compression will have to be figured out when it goes together. The JE pistons are listed as 11.2:1 with 58 CC chambers. My heads have been surfaced, so I'm running a few CC's less.

Hell, the engine I built for our race car hasd 6.125" long rods in it, but it's a destroked 400 (386) in a 3100# 70 Camaro that runs 10.90 @ 124.5 MPH with unported iron heads...
http://www.geocities.com/max_wylde/cahallracing.html

Frank

94 TA TT2S

So if for my bottom end NA, I want it to make a lil more power....Get the Longer Rods ...Will 11.2 Be ok with pump gas????

Mindgame

One of the biggest advantages to the 6" rod is the reduction in piston weight. A 6.125" is still plenty feasible (3.48 stroke) for a NA only build. The effect is greater as engine speeds increase.

You should choose a compression ratio based on the cam you'd like to run and a cam based on the rpm you'd like to turn. Either way, you want to compression the engine so as to produce good cylinder pressure at lower engine speeds, otherwise things are going to get soggy. Search "dynamic compression" in the advanced tech forum for more info on this.

I'm not overly impressed with the Canton pan build quality. That's why I'd recommend Stefs if you want a high-quality piece.

Good luck Frank.

-Mindgame

nateh

I'm dealing with this little problem myself. I've got the ARP main studs and they are just not long enough. I thought maybe some coupling nuts might work, but found otherwise. I'm trying a little machined piece made from 11/16 hex material, tapped on the bottom for the 3/8-24 threads found on the ARP studs. The top of the piece is going to be machined with 5/16 threads to hold the windage tray in place. The tray will rest on the 11/16 section and will be held in place by some 5/16 nuts.

It was just an idea I had. I'll see if it solves the problem.

arnie

Why didn't they work?

nateh

Two reasons: 1. The top threads on the stud are 3/8-24 and I couldn't find a coupling nut with fine threads. That's not the show stopper though, since I could drill and tap some hex material.
2. By my measurements, the distance from the top of the ARP stud to the windage tray was only .150 inches. There wouldn't be enough material to screw into the top of the coupling nut and hold the tray securely in place. Once I got looking at it, I realized it would be just as easy to machine this little piece I drew up than to make a fine-thread coupling nut and adapt it to work on the top (with outside threads). Edit: Actually, when I look at it, this is just what the new piece looks like, so essentially it is a tapped piece of hex (11/16) bar, turned on the top so it sticks through the holes and the tray is held by some nuts.

Does that explain well enough?

arnie

For my situation, the fine thread coupling nuts, set screws (or studs), and the necessary nuts worked. In this case, the pan is a Canton though, not oem.

nateh

Arnie, where did you find fine-thread coupling nuts? All I could find was standard thread.

arnie

Unfortunately Nate, I won't be of much help. I'm inclined to believe it was a stroke of good fortune. I came across a few at work (full time job) lying on a shelf. For all that I know, they were probably there for alot longer than I've been on this forum. Have no idea of the original supplier. Haven't really tried to locate more from another source. They are 7/16" hex, by 7/8" lg., with the 3/8" internal thread. Practically made to order.

Highlander

I also need help

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...ndage+tray+arp