Exactly. OBD-I scanning setups for the LT1 do not require the 12V pin. That's why I posted your link Rob. But apparently they don't believe us..... so.........

 

Well my idea didnt work.
I do belive you guys, I just don't see how the picture can help me when my car has a 12 pin as in im confused and if it doesnt need a 12vdc source then what else can be the problem or how can I solve this probelm? lol I just wanna get my car started.

 

The picture and the DLC info on my site that you have already looked at should answer all questions on how to connect. It does not matter which end is 16 pin and which is 12 pin. This will communicate if all your other wiring is correct.

Pin A (12 pin)<>pin 5 (16 pin)
Pin M (12 pin)<>pin 9 (16 pin)

 

I don't understand why you didn't just put a resistor in the switch contact circuit and be done with it. Short drive to Radioshack and it's done.

http://shbox.com/1/air_bag_disc_2.jpg

Don't cut the wire, use the connector with the resistor

http://shbox.com/1/vats_bypass.jpg

4th Gen LT1 F-Body Tech-PassKey/VATS

 

Alright I get it, and yea Im going to try that tonight. Now does any of this VATS or Etc have anything to do with fuel pump. When I open the key I dont hear the pump hum? (Probaly siezed because the prev owner had a fuel cell, so he drained the factory tank, left the line open and also cut the fuel pump wires to add his own pump to the fuel cell.)

 

Also Id appricate it if someone PMs me thier email, I wanna email you a picture of a red plug thats under the dash on the right side of the steering column that im not sure where it goes too? It has one big orange wire, big purple and one small brown, and one small black. Its unplugged on both my new car and old.

 

The wires from the contacts in the ignition switch wrapped in orange tubing go directly to the TDM. Once the TDM is satisfied it has the correct key, among other things, it allows a Fuel enable signal to the PCM. The PCM in turn, pulls in the fuel pump relay.

Never heard the ignition position referred to as "open". Switches are referred to as closed when they are connected.

You did not say but if the red connector has 5 cavities (pin locations) it is from the rear defogger switch.

 

Ok, I made a resitor for the vats to bypass, first time the security light started flashing so I repositioned the resistor then the light went away car still didnt start?
The wiring harness that comes from the firewall driver side that plugs into all the stuff under the dash in my old car that I brought over had an alarm, i didn't tranfer the alarm. Does this have anything to do with it?

 

Unless, Im getting resistace from the wrong key? Which key resistance am I supposed to use the one that was in my orginal car that my motor was in or the new shell I out my motor in? Sorry guys im getting really fustrated and confusing myself more.

 

The key that goes to the TDM you are using. If you swapped it, you need the key that was with it. If you didn't swap it, you need the original key.

Either way you only have to measure and try 2 different keys. Easy enough. If one does not work. Use the other.

If the security light is on or blinking, that indicates a security issue.

Alarm modules are often wired into the starter circuit where they interrupt it from starting. If you removed it did make sure the wiring wasn't cut or otherwise damaged?