Have you verified the battery and alternator are working perfectly? I had problems with my alternator not keeping the battery charged and it affected the cars performance a lot!

 

Going out on a limb here but, Sounds like some heated sensor might be the cause.
Like, you're excited that It started, go for a run and when it gets to operating temp, it poops..
Have you tried to start it cold, let it idle for 1/2 hour way past warm up temp, and THEN take it around the block or under load and see.
Does it show a code when you start to experience problems?
Just my .02
E

 

Maybe I missed it in the ongoing 6-month tale, but have you scanned it for codes?

 

I'm shopping for a code reader now.
This is what it does as it warms up.
At first, this stumble isn't there;
Then it occurs at a lower and lower
RPM until zero, when it dies.
At two grand here.
The check engine light could be anyting, I guess.
At first I hoped it was just the o2 sensor.
Code reader needed next.
I am quite busy with my job, and work on this when I
Am able. I appreciate all of the help I've gotten here.

The video:

[autostream]http://autostream.com/camaroz28/?page_type=firebirdplayerthumbnail&framepage=2707& transactionid=1347244369-242301107&posted_by=Boogityx3_www.camaroz28.com&yo utube_video_id=jR92vlSbrNQ[/autostream]



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Your low on gas which is never good in these cars. It sure sounds bad in the video and I will be interested in what your fuel pressure is. Do you know where the knocking or banging sound is coming from? It is in relation with the rpm's jumping up and down and sounds like something is really wrong with the engine.

 

Have you ever replaced the fuel filter? $15 and 15 minutes.

 

Filter is new.
Tank is full. I need to adjust the float after fuel pump install.
Motor has 81,000 miles on it.
Ran great for the first 1,200.
Perhaps an LS2 is in my future...?

I really like this car, and would rather not give up on it.
Tho it has taken me a while to get as far as I have (nowhere but $ behind)
it'll run again one day.
The help given here is very much appreciated.

 

The 94 was sort of in the grey area between obd1 and obd2. It can be scanned but if I remember right it's not quite a plug and play affair unless you have code reader with an adapter cable or something. There are some computer software programs out there too but again you have to get a cable, download it etc. Aside from scanning it my guess is the opti-spark (distributor). I think that, at least partially, that's what generates the signal for the tach. It gets blamed wrongfully for many problems but time, moisture, and wear on the cap/rotor make it a prime suspect once you've tried the usual ICM, coil, plug and wire checks etc. I'm no "guru" but I've had three of these LT1's. Good luck.

 

That is absolutely incorrect when applied to F Body cars. The 1994 cars were OBD1 and the connector was standard 12-pin OBD1. I have not seen a case where a standard OBD1 reader could not read a 1994 car unless something else was wrong.

You may thinking of the 1995 cars which were also OBD1 but had the 16-pin ALDL like the OBD2 cars. These can easily be read with an OBD1 scanner if the Pinout was correct as shown on Shoebox's website.

To be clear, there is no grey area between OBD1 and OBD2 in our cars. 1993-1995 cars were OBD1, 1996-1997 cars were OBD2.

I hope this helps....

 

80,000 miles on an 18 year old car? That's impressive!

LS2 swap in the future would be a HUGE improvement, I think if you can't get this LT1 repaired, go for that LS2!