Valid point...I'm done on my end. I have showed my substantiating evidence as to my argument. If I'm wrong, I apologize. It won't be the first time, and probably won't be the last.

 

Let me start off by saying that I'm not taking sides with either of you because I don't want to get in between this and think the both of you have acted immature in what should have been a simple topic. Personally, I feel that neither of you are right or wrong and have seemed to lose focus of both this forum and the spirit of this message board. Let's just suffice it to say that different rotors are used for different purposes (whether it be for street, strip, road race, auto-X, wet-weather performance, looks, etc).

But what I did want to point out to you is that your "evidence" is from people who are trying to sell you product and whatever they have in stock is what is the best for any particular application. There is a big difference between Engineering and Marketing. If you call and talk to the Engineers at some of the very companies you listed, they will tell you that their slotted/crossdrilled/special coatings are for nothing more than cosmetics. I have heard it first hand from both Brembo and Baer, and know for a fact that Baer prints it in some of their catalogs. This is not by any means a personal attack on what you believe to be correct, but I wanted you to see both sides of the coin.


My personal feeling on this whole topic is if you're trying to do this on a budget, then get what you can afford, preferably something that has a lifetime warranty so if there is a problem with the pads or rotors down the line, your out-of-pocket expenses won't be much. If you're doing a brake upgrade, then figure out what the primary purpose of your car is, do the research and make up your own mind as to what calipers/pads/rotors you should use. My stance on the stock LT1 brakes is that it isn't worth trying to upgrade too much due to the size and construction of the calipers, so spend your money wisely. If you're on a really tight budget, then maybe ordering them online from a place such as this will help you keep the expense down.

 

Hey Guys,

There is a lot of good info in this thread and I don't really want to close it. However, if the bickering doesn't stop, I'll have to. If we disagree with something somebody says here let us please try to disagree in an ADULT manner. We don't need to act like children to get our points across. I don't want to hear any smart *** comments like "jerking off with lube" and crap like that. Take it to email if you feel the need to tell them that.

Thanks.

 

My .02, having known quite a few serious road race guys in my day.....

Cross-drilled and slotted... yeah, alot of the big boys use them. No arguements there. Thing is, most of the guys I've known who use them chuck them after every race... or maybe a few races. Seems to be viewed as a disposable item. So I don't think you can make valid arguements in saying, "Well the big dawgs use them so we should to". That never makes for a compelling reason to use a product one way or the other. We're talking two entirely different life expectancies here..... kinda on the same level as aluminum connecting rods and super-lightweight pistons.

On the other side of this... many of the OEM manufacturers use slotted and drilled rotors on their stuff. Now granted, many of those cars are primo $, so maybe a rotor change is to be expected in short time?

Then there's the subject of casting-in the holes but according to Brembo and their "testing on the matter" there is no discenrable difference in component life. So there's still a bit of debate on this subject from all sides.

I'll just stick to slotted. I have a buddy who can dimple rotors with a ballnose end mill, then he chamfers them in the same radial pattern Baer uses. They look just like cross-drilled, especially from 8' away. That's my ticket to the x-drilled "look".

-Mindgame

 

the question still stands-
are the holes there for cooling?

 

Cooling?

In my mind.... yeah, they should help. You have air entering the vaned section..... if you can move more of that air across the friction surface of the rotor wouldn't that help in cooling the rotor? My intuition seems to think "yes".

I bet you could find a thermal properties report somewhere on the internet if you were so inclined. With all the sensors out there and al the testing that goes on.... someone is bound to have done it already.

-Mindgame

 

we had them at work at TRW's brake design facility

the differances were neglegable

 

Ok, there you have it then.

Why does Porsche still use them in their ceramic composite rotors?
I mean, here we have a rotor that's much better under high-heat conditions.... why the need for the holes?

-Mindgame