Geez I tell you, this board is getting more pleasant each day I visit.

 

There have been a LOT of people on this board, especially in the autocross/road race furum, that have had excellent luck with the Autozone CHEAP rotors. Including myself.

IMO, dont waste your time messing with the pistons or whatever, just slap the stuff together and run it. If you are looking for a cheap way to improve the brakes, swap in fresh fluid.

 

and good pads.

TA wheels weighing 6lbs less peice than my salads(according to my scale at home) will help too

The best bang for the buck would be C5/ LS1 upgrade

 

But your mom loves the lube, won't let me near her rump without it. It's jackasses that are slowly ruining this board. The nice part about having a forum like this is that you can get OPINIONS from people who have had similar experiences you've had, or to get ideas on things you might be considering doing. Some of you rookies that are still using daddy's tools while he's at work should listen and learn about some things before you go off and post about something of which you have no clue.
Cheap AutoZone rotors are usually okay to use, and will give you many useful miles of service. If you want the look/feel/performance/braggin rights of drilled/slotted rotors, they are available at extra cost.

 

Thats all I wanted to know if it was feasible to buy the $30-$50 rotors. Its not that I am trying to cheat myself out of anything, but I feel the stock GM rotors held up very well. Its just I am on a fixed budget after my wife totaled up my spendings on my car within the last 9 months. $5500! Needless to say, spending any more money right now, and yes even for brake rotors...... well I would have better luck asking here to invite 3 of her girlfriends over for a little fun if you know what I mean

 

both of you shut up-
and there is no performance benifit to cross drilled

 

I'll let the crew chief know that when I go in tomorrow. We can save THOUSANDS on those POS drilled rotors we've been buying.
I disagree with you.

 

who cares
you're wrong




sorry, but your just being stupid and stubborn now.

Say you dont want to take my word for it. fine, i'm a dumb *** 18 year old kid. what do i know?
BUT
you are in effect saying my bosses (brake systems engineers), Their testing, Chris 96 WS6 (the guy who sold them for a living) and Dr.Mudge (a feaking automotive genious) are all wrong and you are right based on ...what? a hunch? a theory that makes sense in your head? or the fact that they cost more?

sorry

you are wrong.


EDIT:
note to self-
AJ Motorsports = dont do buisness

not only are u irritating other people, but your telling other people WRONG information

 

EDIT
I was going to go off on you. I feel now that it is pointless and not worth my time. You have an OPINION, and I have an OPINION. Mine is based on my own perosnal experiences, but you say I'm WRONG????? Okay....whatever. Don't worry about doing business with AJM. It's not a public business. Too bad, I shot down your oportunity to turn this into a "bash (business name here)" thread.
How can one person's opinion be WRONG becasue it is different than yours? I based everything I said on the info I gained when I was going through exactly what this guy is going through. But that's WRONG???? I think you said it best....."i'm a dumb *** 18 year old kid".....yup, you are. Young, dumb, and full of ***.
If I'm annoying anyone else, they can let me know. I was trying to help the guy by offering input. So **** off.
I feel better now.

 

too much bickering.

i have the rotors from ebay, the slotted(not drilled) ones that were a hundred bucks a set. they rock. when i had the factory replacement rotors on, the pads would feel like they were melting, or not working right. kinda like when a big water puddle is hit, then the brakes are applied and there is no grip. well, with these rorors, that's not a problem any more. i can feel the braking power, and there's a lot more now than there was before. and they dont warp. i have already had a few run-ins with extremely hard and extended braking, and no warping what so ever. i was surprised because bear is selling them for almost 200 a piece and i got mine for 100 a pair.

 

too much bickering, this hole forum has turned int a im right and youre wrong bickering contest. if you have something bad to say to one person, use the IM or the EMAIL link and talk to them


i have the slotted(not drilled) rotors from the ebay store. and they rock. i have already had a few run-ins with hard and extended braking and have had no warping. they also have none of the melting feeling i had with stock and replacement rotors. it felt like i had just hit a puddle of water and hit the brakes, but not now. they have none of that and work great.

 

I would just get Autozone replacements. I have used these on the road course they hold up just fine and are really the same material as the oem.

As for cross drilled.... stay away from these. They are very prone to breaking throught he holes from high heat. This is especially true on the road course where heat really builds up.

Slotted are okay, but not necessary with today's brake pads, although they do have a little BLING BLING about them.

 

how can you be wrong?
thats like saying "well i think the air filter is cool the air"
its flat out wrong.

yound dumb, full of ***, **** me whatever...
the fact of the matter is you are saying several experts (not me obviously) are dead wrong. for some reason- beyond me- you feel those slots are there to cool. The guy who designs them says no. the guy who sells them says no. A few experts inbetween say no. but you say "no i'm right based on the fact that i think they are for cooling"

I'm done bickering with you. if you want cooler brakes, go get a set of cross driller rotors. just stop telling people they are for cooling, BECAUSE THEY ARE NOT. This is not a my opinion vs your opinion issue. clean cut and dry. the holes are not therer to cool. look at the thread i posted a few posts earlier. If you dont want to listen at this point, go buy a tornado while you are at it.

I refuse to turn this into a "i'm right because your mom is fat" thread. Like I said, dont take my word for it, and lets just say I'm a liar and twisted everything my boss told me. I dont see how you can possibly refute dr. mudge or Chris through.

Take it personally, call me names. Fine. this is all reflecting upon YOUR buisness or whatever it is as well as you as a person. Like I said, i'm done. I've made my point, backed it up. you have a theory that makes sense in your head, a used seat of brake pads and various other things that will get you a dollar anywhere along with 4 quarters. sorry. I'm listening to experts.

 

They may be slightly larger, I dont know. JC Whitney sells stock rotors for I think $20-$29 each, but shipping probably would suck, plus wait, so get them locally.

Cross drilled rotors, were usefull way back in the days when pads outgassed, this is NO longer an issue. Porsche street cars have as-cast holes, they are NOT drilled, these are the only rotors with holes that actually wont crack like the riced out drilled rotors will. WS6 Keith (nitrous mod) can tell you that his rotors cracked with street use and lasted only 1/3-1/4 as long as a standard rotor.

He then had them cryo treated ($$$), and they lasted longer, however there is no reason to use drilled rotors. Race cars dont use them, interesting isn't it

Slotted rotors supposedly clean the pad and heat them up faster, they have nothing to do with cooling. These will eat pads faster, because that is thier function, more friction, and cleaning the top layer of pad off. How well they may actually do that, I dont know.

We are very lucky to have vented rotors on these cars, not solid, and that is the only kind of rotor you really want on the car. If you want to improve braking, an LS1 swap would be great, or simply a good set of front pads and steel lines either in front or on all four corners.

Save your money, dont buy bling bling rotors unless its a show car. Cross drilling a rotor only serves to destroy the integrity of the rotor, hence the cryo treatment, just no reason to have them at all.

 

i agree sith the drilled rotors being bad, however coming from both sides of the fence, i love the slotted. the stopping power is way better, in my opinion. and, they werent that mush more expensive. pads arent that expensive either, you can get a set of carbon-kevlars off ebay now for under 50 bucks--and that is amazing seeing how last year they were 100 a pair.

i agree in the fact that noone should have drilled rotors. the integrity and temper is destroyed when the heat from the drill makes the hole, and henceforth, the cracks. but, if you are short on cash, or dont want a performance upgrade, by all means the advanced auto rotors are the way to go. if you want better stopping power and good looks, use the slotted