Just checked the brakes. All my pads need replaced and took the rotors to an auto parts store to be turned. Front 2 are almost out of spec and the back to are shot. What are my options? What they sell in the auto parts stores are made of cast iron right? The ones from GM are not. Is this correct? Should I go to a salvage yard and get some? Should I just go swipe all the brake hardware from an LS1 at the salvage yard or buy some rotors from an auto store. Suggestions and answers helpful..... Thanks !

 

Autozone, Advance, Checkers, etc. all use the same material (cast iron) to make their rotors, as well as the rotors that you buy from the dealer. They should only be about $25 each to replace with new ones from Autozone. If you want to get tricky, go on Ebay and buy some slotted or cross-drilled rotors. I have slotted on the front, and cross-drilled on the rear, with Performance Friction Carbon Metallic brake pads all the way around. Slotted/drilled rotors are slightly lighter than stock rotors, and are less prone to fade when hot....HTH

 

no they aren't

 

Aren't what? Lighter or less suseptable to fade? Both?

 

So what you are saying is that the ones you can pick up from an autoparts store is made out of the same material as GM makes theres? GM wants $200 for the fronts as where an auto parts store want $60-$100 for the fronts Napa has a brand called United which they say are made by Raybestes. I need to replace all my rotors ASAP. Has anyone had any good luck from an auto parts store? If so which one?

 

both really,
but mostly fade.

the slots weight (or lack of) is neglegable

slots/cross drillings are not designed/intended for cooling in any way shape or form

 

Trey,

So, the only real benefit is increased surface area for better heat dissapation, right? You're saying they don't even do that. I have a hard time believing they do nothing as you say. You might as well be saying they're no better than Zmax or Tornado air management!

 

I have cross drilled rotors cause my truck kept warping front rotors. I have never had an automatic tranny vehicle that did not warp the front rotors. I have had 6 manual tranny vehicles that never warped the front rotors. The cross drilling is supposed to allow an escape route for the vaporized pad surface during braking. Thus keeping a clean pad surface for maximum bite and holes give a gripping surface as well.

I feel that it also gives a slight amount of cooling since it lets this vapor out.

I'll tell you this, replace the rubber brake lines with braided and you'll be amazed at the difference even more so than any other mod you could do.

If you haven't had any problem like warping, stay with the OEM type but if you get them at a cheap auto parts store, beware they may be warped beyond spec. check them first before installing.

Last word of advice, remove the pistons, check them for galling and replace the o-rings while your there. And of course replace all the fluid unless you have already done that recently.

Did you know there is break in procedure for pads that will significantly increase the life of the pad. Didn't know that until I bought high performance pads. (instructs in the box with them) Let me know if you need it)

 

Trey, I have mucho respect for you and your wisdom on the board, but I have to disagree on this one. I've pyrometered my rotors, and the slotted/cross-drilled rotors run cooler than the stock rotors. We use them on the race team I work on for the same reason. That's where I got the idea.....Also, my drilled rotors are almost 1.5 lbs. lighter each than the stock rotors. Maybe you have a different brand or something, but those are my findings.....The slotted rotors are only about a half-pound lighter each, but every half pound saved, is HP earned....
I'm curious....if you don't think the slots/cross drillings are there to dissipate heat, what do you think it's there for?

 

If you use the piston lube or equivalent, you shouldn't ever have to replace the piston or the o-ring. I haven't yet, and am over 100K on the originals.....You SHOULD replace the fluid frequently, though. I agree on that.....

 

If I were you, I would just get all new rotors from Autozone and be done with it. Don't waste your money on slotted or drilled rotors, as they ARE a waste of money for a street car.
Instead, if you want to upgrade, get the LS1 parts for the front and swap them on. You will notice a much biger difference.

I have done at least 30-40 brake jobs in my life, and I have never had rotors turned. If they were warped, then I would just sh*t-can them and get new ones, if they looked okay and the last set of pads didn't make it down to the rivets, then I would just use them over. Never had a problem.

 

Like I said, I took the rotors to an auto parts store and the said that they were below specs to turn. Now I have heard from some people that you dont want to buy the cheap $25 rotors that they sell. Namely their own name brand rotors. Does this have any truth to it?

I could go with Raybestes or United both made by the same company for about $50 each for the front. Worth it?

The rears to get Raybestes are $99 each while United from Napa are only $55. Both again made by Raybestes.

I just dont want to get some cheap crappy rotors up front. Especially when I am trying to slow down from a 105 MPH+ run in the 1/4 mile. Would rather go to the beach if I wanted to play with a sand trap.

 

the reason for slots and holes is to release gasses caused when the brake pad is compressed and under high heat. your pads dont release gasses.
all things being equal-
a 8 slots aren't going to save much weight. usually they are lighter because they are thinner or a different brand or something- not because of 8 slots.

sorry,i really dont feel like going too deep into the explanation, i feel like dog doo doo and i've tryped this out on the corvette forum and here a few times.

 

ohh the joys of the search button

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...ry good thread


http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zero... clarification

 

While some guys busy jerking off with some kind of lube cause he doesn't want to take 5 minutes to pull the pistons and check them. And the others are busy arguing over cooling, as we tried to tell you. It's a matter of trial and error. There is no hard fast rule for parts. The cheap Sh#$ is still cheap SH#$ and if you use it just check it for compliance to spec. There is nothing wrong with it just check it.

We can't tell you what to use and not to use cause we don't agree.

Good luck