Well I just bought a th400 and I've done a lot of searching which answered a bunch of my questions. I currently have a 94 w/ the 4l60e in it. I know I need different slip yolk and custom ds. I also know I need GM p/n 8655315(rotor) and 8655291(sensor) to make the speedo work.

A few I was still confused on though include:
1. Can I use stock torque arm? (someone mentioned there was an adapter or something. I would go with aftermarket but I think my true duals will cause a problem when mounting the piece that the aftermarket torque arms mount to).

2. How can I get the madman dipstick and how much is it? (I checked his webpage and didn't see the dipstick on it anywhere.)

3. Is it easier to go with m6 concole or just modify the a4 console? I saw a few people tried different ways and seemed to get different results.

Thanks for your time. I searched for at least an hour and didn't come up with those answers so I'm sorry if I just missed a thread that contained the info. I tried my best.
-Sean

 

1. Can't answer that one. I have an aftermarket torque arm
2. I just bought a LOKAR dip stick and attached it to the back passenger side valve cover bolt. Part # TD-3400TM
3. I used the M6 console but I used a Cheetah shifter with Biondo CO2 Kit wich took up alot of room.

 

hurst makes a kit that will let the stock torque arm work with the th400. jegs part number 530-550-0002. different torque converter... what made you go with a th400 over a th350? you loose less power through a th350

 

The TH400 is quite a bit stronger than the TH350. Hands down.

 

Actually mine is a TH375. Same as TH400 but with a TH350 output shaft.

 

I have seen mid 8 second cars on a th350 so they can't be that weak

 

<quote>The TH400 is quite a bit stronger than the TH350. Hands down</quote>
Yeah but if a TH350 like mine can safely handle 800rwhp but it only puts out 405, why go thru the hassle/cost/weight of a TH400 when the TH350 does the job? TH350 is a bolt in (using 9" tailshaft), driveshaft yoke is exactly the same, no driveshaft shortening/lengthening.
http://taekwondoplus.org/z28/m6_to_th350_swap.htm
And for 96/97 OBDII cars, no expense for a VSS signal. Just tap off the drivers side ABS wires.
http://taekwondoplus.org/z28/unitygain.htm
Dave

 

Dirtydavew...so you are saying that a th350 is a better choice than the th400? I am curious because I am in the market for new tranny and can't decide between the two??? Sorry not trying to steal the thread!!!

 

if you aren't running a full blown race engine you can run a properly built th350 just fine.. It weighs less and takes less power to run than a th400.

 

Anyone know what the gold-colored plate in that Hurst kit is for? Please don't tell me it's to cover up the hole left from a 6-speed shifter in the floor...

 

is it a flat plate or is it a braket? there is a plate that bolts to the bottome of the trans to relocate the trans mount. at least my kit came with one.

 

Why would you want to use the stock, non-adjustable TA with a setup strong enough to need a TH400?
I have the Lokar... it is too short, and very inconvenient to fill, because it is way under the cowl, and need an adapter. Did you consider e-mailing Madman?
Depends on what shifter you use. I have the B&M Pro Ratchet, and it fits fine in the stock M6 console. But, with the boot in place, you can't see the gear position indicator. No problem on the street, and I take the boot off at the track.

 

WRT TH350 "vs" TH400. I like "bulletproof" stuff and am willing to give up a few pounds and a few hp to get it. But your viewpoint may differ. To give up OD (unless you also get a Gear Vendors) I wanted a really strong tranny as compensation, but YMMV.

Rich Krause

 

I'd either call or e-mail Brian about the dipstick.

I had a hard time finding an M6 console that wasn't being held for ransom. Instead, I'm buying molded, uncut carpet from Speed Inc and going w/o a console. This will allow me to mount the shifter (reverse pattern Pro Stick) @ an angle which should make it easier to shift.

 

I went with th400 because 1) Found a killer deal on one that was built to handle multiple low 9 / high 8 passes and it was just refreshed and 2) I've gone through way too many 4l60e's and I'm done with them.

Following that thinking, Injuneer is right and I will be going with an adjustable unit from bmr that has the cross-mounts. I can always have the exhaust shop reweld my true duals so they will work once the new setup is in.

I will also go w/ the m6 console and use the b/m pro ratchet since that looks really clean and if it's good enough for Injuneer, it's good enough for me.

I'm also about to send an email to madman about the dipstick.

I have also "almost" decided on a coan 8" race converter. Talked to Craig and it looks like it's p/n 20503. They said w/ my setup it would stall between 3800-4200 and w/ that low of a stall (relative to the stalls most 8's have), he said it would be a pretty tight setup and would work good on the street. Plus they are on sale until Dec. 24th which doesn't hurt.

Thanks guys!
Sean