stock rotating assembly limits
stock rotating assembly limits
assuming stock rods, pistons, and crank, what kind of RPMs could one turn after replacing the main/rod bearings with good bearings and using ARP rod bolts?
I did a search, couldn't come up with anything.
I did a search, couldn't come up with anything.
The limitation is probably going to be your valve train. My stock shortblock handled trips to 6700 rpm fine.
If you have a later LT1 (sometime in 94 was the switch) you have PM rods and they are stronger than the old Chevy PINK rods. The stock hypereutectic pistons are pretty good and the stock crank is supposed to be pretty stout. So if everything is reassembled correctly and it is/was properly balanced you should have a decent short-block, however, valve-train is usually the limiting factor. All it takes is a little piston to valve kiss at high rpm to ruin your entire day.
Are you just replacing the rod bolts or are you having the rods properly reconditioned? (May be cheaper to buy some forged steel Scats but if you do that you get into the OH BUY THE WAYS like if your buying rods get the 6.0" one and 1.250” compression height -5cc pistons IOT lighten the rotating assembly. Then you might as well zero deck the block IOT bump up the compression, since the pistons and rods are lighter you need to balance it. (now you just spent another couple of KK$$$. )
But with any performance build it seems you can either pay up front or pay the man later when the stock part you reused IOT save 200 bucks breaks taking out your new multi-thousand dollar part.
Mike
If you have a later LT1 (sometime in 94 was the switch) you have PM rods and they are stronger than the old Chevy PINK rods. The stock hypereutectic pistons are pretty good and the stock crank is supposed to be pretty stout. So if everything is reassembled correctly and it is/was properly balanced you should have a decent short-block, however, valve-train is usually the limiting factor. All it takes is a little piston to valve kiss at high rpm to ruin your entire day.
Are you just replacing the rod bolts or are you having the rods properly reconditioned? (May be cheaper to buy some forged steel Scats but if you do that you get into the OH BUY THE WAYS like if your buying rods get the 6.0" one and 1.250” compression height -5cc pistons IOT lighten the rotating assembly. Then you might as well zero deck the block IOT bump up the compression, since the pistons and rods are lighter you need to balance it. (now you just spent another couple of KK$$$. )
But with any performance build it seems you can either pay up front or pay the man later when the stock part you reused IOT save 200 bucks breaks taking out your new multi-thousand dollar part.
Mike
Last edited by aboatguy; Sep 8, 2007 at 03:20 PM.
the valvetrain won't be a problem as it will all be getting upgraded.
I have a stock 64k mile shortblock that Im going to build a cam only LT1 out of and drop it in the place of my blown original engine. I can't afford heads right now, maybe down the road some.
I have no problem revving. I loved taking my 383 over 6500. I just want to make sure my rods, pistons, and crank can handle it. I don't see why they wouldn't with quality bearings, rod bolts, and piston rings.
I have a stock 64k mile shortblock that Im going to build a cam only LT1 out of and drop it in the place of my blown original engine. I can't afford heads right now, maybe down the road some.
I have no problem revving. I loved taking my 383 over 6500. I just want to make sure my rods, pistons, and crank can handle it. I don't see why they wouldn't with quality bearings, rod bolts, and piston rings.
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