Does anyone know what's the smallest starter out there? I'm looking at this GM performance parts mini starter to install without dropping the Y, but I'm not sure if even it will be small enough. I was able to get the old one out at the very last minute by taking it apart and squeezing it down the side, except this was after I had started cutting the Y-pipe and it jiggled down from the vibration into a crevice I hadn't thought of pulling it through .

Here's the one I'm looking at

http://www.jegs.com/i/GM+Performance...61146/10002/-1


Anyone used it? And if so, is the install straight forward? I was reading instructions for other mini starters and they want you to check proper backlash with a wire gauge and I found it hard to follow.

 

All starters require that you check the tooth engagement with a wire gauge to determine if the starter is spaced correctly to the block. That's where the shims are used. Its as simple as sticking the correct wire gauge (or a standard paper clip wire in a pinch) between the root (bottom land) of the starter gear and the tip of the ring gear.

 

That is way expensive for a starter that is only 1.6HP. I installed this one on my Z when I had it.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-820323/

I use them when ever I have to replace an original "nose cone" type starter.

They always seem to have to be shimmed on side opposite the flywheel to bring it closer to the flywheel. With the LT1 it's easy to get the paper clip in there. With my L31, no way. Had to shim, test, shim, test repeat.

 

thanks for the replies. I figured since it was a GM piece it would be better. I couldn't wait any longer, I had to order it so I can get the part and install it asap. I'm still afraid it's going to be difficult to install though and won't go smoothly.

 

The key is the paper clip trick. You will probably find you have to shim it on the bolt farthest from the flywheel a lot more than the shims they provided. You will probably have to rotate the body to give more room. Be sure you have some allen wrenches. Go ahead and grab some washers to use as shims.

Remember the paper clip and how to get closer and farther away from the flywheel based on how you shim one bolt only. But my experience with hitachi style starters is they are always too far away from the flywheel to begin with. So you shim the farthest bolt from the flywheel only.

 

Got the starter in the mail tonight, it doesn't fit in there any better so I cut the Y completely. I don't know what to do now. It's useless to me over a stock style starter as it's not small enough to fit through the y-pipe without being dropped and now I have to adjust this thing just right or else I could have problems down the road and have to replace it all over again. The solenoid actually seems closer to the header primary than the stock style, but I have yet to verify that. I'll keep you updated, thanks for the help so far.

 

From Shoebox:

http://shbox.com/1/starter_gear.jpg

 

I have the CVR version of that starter. Solves a lot of problems with spacing to the headers. To me its a real bargain.

 

I didn't know even the stock starter was like that. When I did head gaskets and more, I put mine right back on without shims, because there were none. Had no idea I had to clearance it. I must have gotten lucky.

 

Did it come with instructions particularly:

How to rotate the body?

How to shim it to the right clearance with a paper clip?

Seems to me if the body is rotated you will get any clearance you need. If you are concerned about heat, buy a wrap.

 

Wow, I must have lucked out as well. When I bought mine, I just went to the Advance Autoe and bought it and bolted it in. No problems since.

 

I rotated the body and it was better. I tested it and all seemed well so I welded up the exhaust and finished up and put all the tools away, put the car down and as soon as I put it in reverse I heard rubbing. I thought maybe it was the flywheel cover as I had difficulty installing it against the new starter housing, so I cut it and tried again. It went away but then as soon as I accelerated it came back again, real bad so I thought it was the starter pinon to flywheel clearance. Problem is, I already welded up the exhaust, not to mention installed one of the housing shims to get the strter gear away from the flywheel. Turned out there were two shims for the housing. So I was able to painstakingly remove the nose housing and add the other shim. This was not easy with the starter hanging there above the y pipe. It didn't seem any better, hell it almost seemed like the clearance was worse. I couldn't tell if maybe the starter gear was engaged a little from all the times I started it before, so I pushed it but it would not go back in. I thought of adding another washer as a shim so I tried to again separate the housing block from the rest of the starter and now it won't come off. Now I'm stuck. I don't even know if adding another shim would work even though I'm not sure why it wouldn't. That's just the way things are going. The pinon engagement was fine though, no shims needed there. yipee.

I would have been better off using the stock style starter seeing as how this mini starter wasn't even small enough to fit with the y-pipe on but now it's obviously been used and I can't take it back (as per their return policy).

 

Not sure what you are trying to say/ask????? Highly doubt the gear is engaged all the time. You should easily be able to view the gear when the starter is either engaged or disengaged to see it's going out and back in.

The only reason to use shims is to help clearance during STARTING. Based on gear to flexplate clearance.

Think you said you hear something while driving. What do you hear? Could it be something else "rattling"?

 

it's grinding from there not being enough clearance when the starter disengages. When it goes back in, it's too close to the flywheel.

 

If that is true. (I highly doubt it) then the starter is defective and should be replaced. NO FURTHER QUESTIONS ASKED.