This cap & rotor is OK
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

or this
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

But open it up first before you go buying anything

 

ok, I will post results this weekend

 

as I began to remove the distributor, I noticed it was only attached by the 2 top mounting screws, the bottom mount that u screw to the block had broke off. the whole bottom mount is broke off. I wonder how that happened, and would this cause the distributor to reduce spark/ timing?,when I took it completely off, I spinned it and u can hear a lil noise coming from inside the distributor,it spins freely, is this normal also?

 

Were the two top bolts still holding the distributor tight against the block. If so, it shouldn't have affected anything. If it was loose enough to allow the Opti to move forward off the block far enough for the dowel pin to come out of the drive hole in the Opti, it would explain the problem.

 

the 2 top holes were not as tight as I the first time i installed the opti. all i had to do was unbolt the 2 screws and the opti slid out.

I paid 300+ for the GM distributor, anyone knows where they are cheaper?

 

changed out the distributor, put everything back together and she fired up. still hesistant tho. if I hit the gas hard, the engine doesnt rev up till a second later,and sometimes it will backfire out the exhaust pipes or intake, the fuel pressure gauge goes up but the engine doesnt rev up in time enough so the pressure goes down.Sometimes back fire thru intake, the smoke out of exhaust pipes smells like gas.If I hit the gas pedal slow she will rev up slow till I go past 38-43 psi and it seems to cut out wont go pass 38-43psi. idle is slightly rough, starts right up every time. With key on, NO start, fuel pressure reads 41-42 psi, with the engine running it reads 35-37psi.the fuel pump is new Walbro and Injectors are new FMS 24#. any suggestions

 

Your (vacuum compensated) fuel pressure is simply responding to the changes in intake manifold (absolute) pressure resulting from the way you move the throttle. Opening the throttle slowly will not change the pressure much from the 38psi level.... it will increase a bit, but not much. Opening the throttle quickly increases the intake manifold pressure rapidly, and caused the fuel pressure to rise due to the vacuum compensation line. Stop focusing on the fuel pressure, and start looking at why the PCM is not responding correctly when you open the throttle suddenly. Could be a problem with the MAP sensor or the TPS sensor. Could be as simple as a torn inlet bellows, between the MAF sensor and the throttle body, allowing unmetered air to enter the engine when you open the throttle suddenly.

 

the TPS sensor is new, I measured the voltage&resistance on the IAC sensor few weeks ago and it tested normal according to Haynes Manual,and if I remember correctly, I also tested the MAP sensor also and it tested normal, I will test it again to make sure, but the MAP sensor has not been replaced. I will check for tears in elbow also

 

I replaced the MAP and IAT sensors and re-installed the TPS sensor just to see if it was installed wrong and same results. Checked for tears in inlet elbow, that was a negative

Could a clogged EGR valve cause this?

 

An EGR valve that is stuck open can cause problems with starting and poor idle. One that is plugged, preventing flow, will not cause the problems. EGR is not used at idle, only during low RPM cruise conditions.

 

also, I put my hand to the tailpipes to see if there is a diffrence of exhaust flow, and the driver side seems to be flowing more than the pass side. The exhaust smoke smells like gas

any suggestions

 

Without cats, the exhaust is going to smell like fuel. You indicated you were getting a cable and software. Did you ever do a data log? It would be a lot cheaper than randomly replaing parts.

 

that cable will be my next/last step. I downloaded the Datamaster software