Car ran fine, then out the blue it started to be hesistant on idle and on acceleration, now it does not start up at all but does try. fuel pressure reads in 40's and stays there when prime, I took plug of coil that goes to distributor and fire was there, and also tested distributor fire was present there. Also took air cleaner checked it for blockage and it was fine. I have tested voltage on main hot wires and resistance on them and IAC sensor and others and it checked fine according to haynes manual.

These parts below are brand new

Coil,Distributor,ICM,waterpump,Injectors,fuel pump sending unit,fuel pump,fuel pump relay,fuel regulator,radiator,engine harness,spark plugs been changed twice,spark plug wires,tps sensor,bosch o2 sensors,ECT sensor

 

Check it for codes. Relieve fuel pressure and see if it returns. Squirt fuel in the intake while cranking it over. Check compression in at least the 4 corners, 2 if your really lazy. Look at the plugs and while they are out, see if they actually spark. This isn't rocket science.

 

the problem with checking codes is the harness dlc connector is for an OBDII, I was told all 95''s were OBDI proramming, i did the spark plug thing weeks ago also, I have not done a compression check, I thought the engine had to be running for that.

 

The engine should not be running to check compression. Remove the ignition wire and turn it over.

 

I forgot to mention when cranking the engine, sometimes it would hit but still wont start up,also the engine had 125k mileage, but ran great before I pulled it out the Firebird, and when I swapped it into Camaro. I will check compression this weekend. what other things could play a part in this.

 

All 95's are OBD-I PCM with a 16-pin OBD-II (style) ALDL connector. If you have an OBD-I scanner, all you have to do is jumper the pins as shown on Shoebox's website.

 

which OBDI scanner would be best to buy

 

If you have a laptop, there are two "free" software packages that will allow you to scan and data log the PCM. All you need is a cable:
FreeScan:
http://www.andywhittaker.com/

TTS DataMaster (20 uses free, then requires license):
http://www.ttspowersystems.com/

Cable:
http://www.akmcables.com/

 

thanks, I just have to order the cable. I am new to this pcm scanning stuff, what exactly will this datalog/scan show

 

Just an opinion here but before you go spending time getting programs, cables and figuring out how to get it all to work. You should try the basics I mentioned earlier. Squirting fuel in the intake while someone cranks it over is a good start.

You said earlier that you checked for spark at the distributor. Was that going to the distributor or coming out of the distributor? It only takes 3 bad cylinders to shut the engine down. I suggest you check spark on at least 6 cylinders. An inline tester is the best idea since it checks everything you have installed currently.

You mentioned that you need to check compression but then you jumped to a scanner. Compression can be done and should be done long before a scan is done. You can borrow a compression tester from AZ.

 

I have spark coming out the coil and i tried 1 cylinder coming from the distributor and spark was there.I will run more test today and post results.

 

First, you will get the trouble codes.... always the best first step to diganosing a problem like this. May show some codes, may not. But why start running random tests when the scan may show you the answer, or which tests to run. You don't have to use a program (even if its free) and a cable. You can often find a used Auto Xray OBD-I scanner on eBay for well under $100, or there are places that sell "refurbished" models.

I like the scanning programs because they provide a dynamic record of the engine operating parameters, and a trained eye can often pick up problems, particularly intermittent ones. There are several knowledgable people on this site who can review your data logs for you.

If you do opt for the scanner, review this:

http://www.injuneer.com/ScanMast.html

 

did a few test today. I have spark in the coil going to distributor, but from distributor to cylinders are no spark except #2 cylinder .I turned over a few times.I tested 1,3,5,2,4 cylinder. I didnt get a chance to squirt fuel into the intake but I disconnected the fuel supply line going to fuel rail and primed key and (clean)fuel shot out the hose, as well as with it on the pressure gauge reads 40+

 

No need to squirt fuel. Time to pull the cap off the distributor.

 

I was leaning toward the distr also.I hope this is the problem and hope she treats me well or she has to go, I have put alot of money and time in this project.how much does a new distr cap cost about