Has anyone heard of running a fuel line to each fuel rail.
And does anyone know how to do this and the horsepower gains.

 

You aren't going to see any HP gains unless you are running 800HP or more. Even then its questionable.

I've got -6AN lines into fittings welded to the rear of each rail, and a -6AN return line from a fitting welded to the diagonal cross-over pipe. That will work up to about 1,000HP, and then you will be better off tapping a return into each rail, and feeding back to a dual connection fuel pressure regulator.

What kind of HP levels are you running?

 

Would going to -8AN fitting at the back of each fuel rail be over kill? I plan on having a -8AN feed that splits into -8AN fittings on the back of each rail.

-B

 

Yes, -8 is probably overkill for most street vehicles. That said, I'm getting ready to have a set of rails modified with -8 feeds and -6 returns. I'm doing this to avoid ever having to rework the fuel system again.

I agree with Fred on the gains. The stock lines are good to around 650hp and can be pushed a bit higher with a booster. It's also expensive to setup a fuel system this way.

 

I noticed Fred welded his elec fp guage right to his rail on. Then the cross over tube up front he had the shrader tub welded there and had a steel line coming off of it.

My question is what are people doing if they run parallel....what exactly is being done to the shrader valve line for lack of a better word at the moment as I'm tired. I just notice people run the y-block feeding both rails; then running an fittings off of both rails for the return into the AFPR.
Where are they putting the fp sending unit off of? Are they cutting the shrader valve line altogether and doing something else like putting the sending unit on the FPR itself as some AFPR have a port to tap into?

 

I've seen full parallel rails with an -AN fitting drilled and welded into the top of the front end of each fuel rail, dual return lines back to dual connections on the AFPR. You can put the pressure tap anywhere in the system you want it. I just figured that having it on the fuel rail would be about as accurate as it could possibly be.

You could leave the cross-over tube, or remove it and plug the holes. Wouldn't make a whole lot of difference.