in my case i checked the opti harness and it was good, put in a new opti and no more issues at all , no more heat soak multiple missfires at low rpms, no more higher rpm misses at 3.5k rpms and above , so im good to go now



but i got a friend with a 94 b bod with lt1 and is on his 4th opti , new opti harness, new coil, new icm and still has this searching idle , and has code 41 and 46 , cleared codes and code 46 keeps coming back immeadatly , when you clear the codes it will idle steady then after a while it will start searching again at idle,

i think that the code 41 said with the snap it off red brick scanner that is was EST electronic spark timing code and the 46 was a ESC code for electronic spark controll . so what do you think is up with it , the code 41 stayed gone but the code 46 keeps coming back as soon as clear it after about 30-60 seconds and set check engine light

 

http://www.impalassforum.com/vBullet...d.php?t=234793

This is the only person I have seen find them in my over 9 years playing with this car.

The snag I see is IF the optical sensor is shot how are the bearings??? I think it would be quite hard to line things back up if you replace the bearings. Have heard of guys pressing it all apart BUT then you have to get it all lined back up and on something that small a scribe line is none too accurate.

If you come up with something please share, just saying what I think the snag will be.

 

For an F-Body, DTC 46 is the PASS key fault. I suspect the B-Body is the same.

 

on 93's you dont have to press it apart since they are driven by a small splined shaft and basicly u just loosen the opti sensor and and remove it then push it apart , now if you could find a place to get the bearing thats in the opti then you could be alot better off , but im still on the hunt for that bearing

 

I did replace the bearing in my 300,000 mile one, though. Forgot all about that. All the years of waterpump leaks wrecked havoc on it!

It was actually notchy and difficult to turn when I blew the motor up.

 

Pressing it back together is very easy. Just measure it before and after. Inside the shaft that the rotor bolts to the inside is 2 sizes. This is for whatever reason I dont know, but pressing it back together , aligning it, is not a big deal. I work with some very good Machinery Repair men and Machinist (40 plus years) and in a very well equipped shop.
The bearing isnt available anymore, but you can go one milimeter up in outside diameter, and press it into the hole it was in after machining it a little. The bearing is around 44 bucks. I will try to get pictures to show you what I was going to do. The biggest stopper is the sensor, i cant seem to find one. Where to all these companies get it that rebuild/sell Optis (Accell/Dynaspark etc etc)

 

Here is the bearing. It literally lays in the housing, and a plate is bolted above it. The back side is held by the lip of the housing and as you can see the bearing has a outer ring, and the ring is in the middle of the bearing, so it is reversable.
I was thinking of going a little bigger, and press it in.