I wouldnt keep driving it though, you dont want your disgruntled rods exiting the block in a violent fashion.

-Dustin-

 

I second Bersaglieri. While not having catastrophic engine failure in a piston car, my RX-7 drag car experienced two violent deaths on the track.

No bueno buddy.

I guess I should say sorry....but good luck with the 383

 

Well.. i went to GMR speed. Its a spun bearing. Im going with a all forged 355 setup. So, im takeing out $7k for this rebuild. I might try going with a LE2 h/c but i dont really have supporting mods. This is what i came up with..

Forged crank,rods,pistons ect.. $3,200
LE2 H/C - $2,000
58mm TB - $350
1.6 RR's - $200
Pushrods - $200
LT Pacesetters - $500
E w/p - $200
double roller t/c - $200
Injectors - $400
Dyno Tune - $500

Some prices are low/high so it kinda evens out. Total is looking like $8k. Im only takeing out $7k My new goal is 400+ RWHP and mid 11's 1/2 mile. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

Rather than take out a huge loan I'd do a budget rebuild to save yourself from long term debt.

I'd personally save alot of money and get a stock low mile shortblock and do the LE2 H/C. Do a bored stock TB to 52mm ($150 vs $350). 30lbs injectors are only $200 max, $150 off the board. E-WP $170. Mail order tune it with my cable since a dyno tune isnt absolutely necessary since your dumping alot of cash right now. Thats free vs $500. Pushrods that LLoyd likes are $130 vs $200. Cloyes Double Roller is only $80 not $200.

So its more like:

Stock Shortblock: ~$350
52mm Bored Stocker $150
E-WP $170
30 lbs injectors $200
Free mail order tune until you get additional funds: Free
pushrods $130
LE2 H/C $2000 with shipping costs included
Longtubes - $500
Timing Set -$80

So now your looking at $3500 or so vs $8000. Mid 11's might be possible, but your probably going to need some weight reduction, great tires/rims, and lots more gear. The 60' is going to be critical for those times. Those are all extra additions to the equation, the car will still be fast without them, just wont have the track times to back it up. But honestly how much of your racing is done at the track

-Dustin-

 

Thanks for the above info.I can kinda' understand both
rationals. Your stuff breaks, you want it bulletproof.
And, why go into major debt if you don't have too ?
That $7,000 figure, what about all the incedentals ?
Plugs, wires, fluids, sensors, all new hoses, new belt,
etc. Thats gotta add hundreds at least.
I don't have a rod knock, mine got hot and blew
a head gasket. I'm going the re-manu route with a
three year warranty, all stock except my bolt ons.
I can't wait !
My LT1 has 94,000 and I did'nt want to band aid it.
I wanted to spend the money and drive it !

 

I get the bullet proof Short block with cam that I wanted and get the rest later down the line.... but that's just me.

 

Well, i figure ill do it once and be done with it. The fully forged bottom end with machine work and assembly ect is $3k. Then why not just do everything else while it is all apart? I guess i could keep my BBK crappers. God i dont know. Its takes so much time to find all the parts. Also there is no way to tell if i buy a shortblock off another board member that the same thing wont happen.

 

Me too.

 

Make sure you keep oil in the new engine.

 

Forged bottom end - small(er) used cam - stock heads new valve job - used S trim

That would be my recipe - and much cheaper than 8k. Start working on your car and saving yourself
a) money
b) aggravation from not being able to diagnos your own car
c) money

Run 8-10psi boost and save up for heads, suspension, rear, etc.....

400 at the wheels NA? Heads/Cam, compression, pretty big revs - see Grease (400rwhp AI/GM847)

Boost = good power, low revs, should use forged components

 

I do work on my car myself. You find me all the parts for like 6k and ill give ya something.

 

Rearend swap in the drive - I haven't forgotten. We had 3 cars ripped apart that day LOL

Combination Motorsports
EAG-12106 Eagle SBC Forged Rotating Assembly
3.75 Stroke Crank, 5.70' Rods, SRP -31cc Dish Pistons, PM File Fit Ring Set $1649.97

S trim used will run anywhere from $1200-$2000
Used cam - board=$150-$250
Valvetrain probably $800 or so
Misc = $500-$1000

Doesn't include machine work tho - find a local shop for that.

I like the blower over the heads for a package like that - just personal now that I own a blower car. Crazy torque and the heads can be added later. I wouldn't build a blower engine with heads before the blower - the low compression would kill you until you got the SC.

 

Hah ya that was fun! Only crappy thing is.. i wouldint trust myself putting the bottom end together. Im fine with everything else but the bottom end. You really think 3k for a fully forged bottom end/pistons/high flow oil pump, maching work ect.. is that bad? If anything i can just buy that and use the stock heads, crappy headers and throw on a 200 shot.

 

if it is a rod knock change it as soon a possible so i dont ruin your crank and rods.