Scott85

Car is a 95 T/A, auto , Hooker LT's , magnaflow cat back with converter, 111K.

I recently got a DTC 26 & 77 .

As far as the DTC 26, I've had the car tuned and the EGR & AIR pump should be deleted out of the system, even know they are still hooked up (except for the hoses that would go to the exhaust manifolds ). I've plugged everything I could find that needed plugging, but still have to remove the pump off the car (it is unplugged). I've replaced the EVAP purge solinoid, but that didn't seem to do anything. Air pump fuse is good.
As for the DTC 77 , it keeps blowing the fuse for the fan, the relays are good .The fan will sometimes go on when the A/C is turned on, but not all the time.
The car idles like crap . If I give it enough gas to downshift, it usually runs good. The car will backfire sometimes when it isn't warmed up & feels like its about to die when coming to a stop . Theres a strong exhaust smell when sitting still. I've taken some carb cleaner to try and find any vacuum leaks. It surges when spraying under the TB from the passenger side .
The main problems started when I unplugged the air pump & changed the fuel filter. Thats when it started to run like a$$ .

I do have an Actron scanner and the one thing I noticed is that (no idea what it means), the "LT Fuel trim L" is always lower then the right side. At idle, the left side is at 128, the right at 160 . Also, my left side O2 sensor never goes above 500, idle, driving, doesn't matter. Any help would be appreciated.

Injuneer

DTC 26 is for the EVAP purge solenoid, and has nothing to do with the AIR or EGR system. If the code sets, there's either an open or a short in the EVAP solenoid circuit. Since you've already replaced the solenoid, and that didn't fix it, you have to check the wiring. Just to be sure, measure the resistance across the pins of the EVAP solenoid. If the resistance is 0 or infinite, its still a faulty solenoid.

If the resistance of the solenoid is not 0 or infinite (I think mine read 15ohms, but its been removed for so long I can't remember), you will have to check the gray wire between the PCM and the solenoid (PCM provides ground to open the solenoid), and the brown wire from the fuse to the solenoid (+12V when the ignition is on).

Did you check fuse #6 in the underhood box? That supplies the power to the EVAP solenoid, the EGR vacuum soleoid, and the O2 sensor heaters.

AIR pump fuse has nothing to do with DTC 26.

Then work on the O2 sensors. Does the O2 sensor move at all, or does it stay stationary at about 450mV? That would indicate an open circuit, or dead sensor.

The fact that the left long term fuel trim is 128 may reflect the fact that there is no feedback from the O2 sensor. It isn't going to "learn" with a faulty sensor. With the right side long term at 160, its pouring 25% extra fuel in to the right bank of the engine. If its a "false" lean, it will be running pig rich. If its a "true" lean condition, the left side may be running lean, if its something that affects the fuel to both banks.

It probably running poorly because of the problems indicated by the O2 sensors. The EVAP solenoid will not cause problems like you have. Find the source of the O2 problems first.

Switch the left and right O2 sensors side to side. If the "stuck" readings move with the O2 sensor, its a sensor problem. If the "stuck" readings stay on the left side, its a wiring problem.

Scott85

Thanks for the quick response, fuse #6 is the one that keeps blowing